| D-15 Series II will not run worth a....
 
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 Topic: D-15 Series II will not run worth a....
 Posted By: cbuttre835
 Subject: D-15 Series II will not run worth a....
 Date Posted: 05 May 2017 at 9:28pm
 
 
        
          | Y'all might see a classified post for a fire damaged D-15 series II. About had it. 
 Last summer my D15 got caught out in the rain.  Somehow, it got water in the fuel.  I drained the bowl and the carb.  It ran OK but got to where it wouldn't idle really slow like it always did.
 
 I tore down the carb and there was some rust and gunk in the bowl. Cleaned it up and it ran fair, but quit pretty much last fall.  Had to limp to the barn with the choke on.
 
 I ordered a platinum carb kit (every thing except a float) and dipped it and put it back together.  Checked and double checked every port, all new jets, float is directly parallel ike instructions say (1/4 in).    Now itll idle great when cold, fair when warm.  Wont run well at all (misses and backfires) above 1/3 to 3/4 throttle, dies above that.
 
 It'll run a good pencil size steam of fuel out of the line and plenty from the bowl.  The main jet seems best at about 1 round out. (this is missing and backfiring).
 
 Should I be chasing down an electrical / firing issue?  The cold / hot thing bothers me.
 
 Anybody care to ohm out a new coil or known good coil for me?
 
 How do you spin the motor so that the points are open widest for gapping?  Manual says 0.022 but the kit comes with a 0.020 gauge.
 
 Any advice appreciated.
 
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 C w/ 3rd gear out
 
 D15 II factory 3 point
 
 WD (no motor!)(parts for sale!)
 
 WD 45 wide front
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 Replies:
 Posted By: DSeries4
 Date Posted: 05 May 2017 at 9:55pm
 
 
        
          | You covered the carb and fuel bowl, but what about the fuel in the tank???  Could be bad gas and/or water in the gas.  Give the tank a good cleaning out at the same time.  Don't use gas from the barrel on the farm either - those things are notorious for letting water/condensation in. Try some fresh gas right from the station. 
 
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 '49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185,  '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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 Posted By: cottonpatch
 Date Posted: 05 May 2017 at 10:04pm
 
 
        
          | I put all new standard ignition parts in mine, their blue streak points and condenser, and their blue streak coil.  Just keep bumping the starter til the points are widest on the cam on the distributor.  I use a set of feeler guages and set at .022.  Once changing points you need to check the timing with a light and at wide open throttle.  Don't waste your time on junk points, napa echlin or standard blue streak.  Don't give up, 15 II is one heck of a tractor. 
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 '52 CA, '61 D10 II, ‘61 D15, '66 D15II, '63 D17D III, ‘69 170, '73 185 Crop Hustler, '79 185, '79 7000, '77 7040
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 Posted By: cottonpatch
 Date Posted: 05 May 2017 at 10:07pm
 
 
        
          | I had to keep opening my main jet up after rebuilding, I think it's at least 1.5 turns out.  Idle jet is one turn out I think. 
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 '52 CA, '61 D10 II, ‘61 D15, '66 D15II, '63 D17D III, ‘69 170, '73 185 Crop Hustler, '79 185, '79 7000, '77 7040
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 Posted By: JimD
 Date Posted: 06 May 2017 at 8:43am
 
 
        
          | Valve lash 
 
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 Owner of  http://www.OKtractor.com" rel="nofollow - OKtractor.com  PM for an instant response on parts. Open M-F 9-6 Central.
 
 We have new and used parts. 877-378-6543
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 Posted By: SteveM C/IL
 Date Posted: 06 May 2017 at 10:01am
 
 
        
          | |  JimD wrote: 
 Valve lash
 
 | 
 certainly needs checked
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 Posted By: Ed (Ont)
 Date Posted: 06 May 2017 at 12:43pm
 
 
        
          | Valve lash didn't change overnight so shouldn't be the problem. Certainly won't hurt to check tho. Replace your points, condensor. Check coil - sounds like electrical problem. Check key and wires to key switch. |  
 Posted By: DougS
 Date Posted: 06 May 2017 at 8:29pm
 
 
        
          | Open the carb drain and see if fuel continuously flows freely. |  
 Posted By: Tracy Martin TN
 Date Posted: 06 May 2017 at 8:49pm
 
 
        
          | Backfires are a sign of valve lash, timing, or both.I agree, didn't probly just start now. If you need the choke on, there is a fuel restriction somewhere. JMHO Tracy 
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 No greater gift than healthy grandkids!
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 Posted By: jaybmiller
 Date Posted: 06 May 2017 at 9:02pm
 
 
        
          | to turn the engine to open points either 1) engage PTO and use pipewrench on PTO shaft to turn 'everything' til points are fully open... be sure to REMOVE pipewrench though....
 
 or
 
 2) use a small pry bar / big screwdriver and turn flywheel though the 'timing' hole. be carefull not to chip a tooth though...
 
 running rough like you said... I'd get rid of 100% of the gas in the tank, sediment bowl ,steel line and carb. Start with FRESH gas....the 'gas' at the pumps with ethonal ATTRACTS water,it's heavy so sits at bottom of tank and is the first 'fuel' to get to the carb...
 engine starts on idle ok ( note little case OK...) but under power demands..there's NOT enough gas in the gas/water mix to allow engine to run properly. I see it all the time on riders and snowblowers up here. Every one that I have to repair, I drain 100% of the fuel system, new filters,use carb cleaner, rinse tank with alcohol, etc. Maybe 'overkill' but I KNOW there won't be a 'fuel problem' after that.
 
 Jay
 
 
 
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 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
 
 Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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 Posted By: Gary Burnett
 Date Posted: 06 May 2017 at 9:11pm
 
 
        
          | Take a small glass and fill it from the drain hole in the carb,let it sit over night and see if you don't have water in the bottom of the glass.On all my gas tractors I've gone to putting a brass nipple in place of the drain plug then add a little gas line and a cheapie lawn mower cut off to the end of the gas line.Turn it on drain a little gas out the bottom of the carb before I start up, also any small piece of rust or metal will fall in the line.
 
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 Posted By: lentsch
 Date Posted: 06 May 2017 at 10:58pm
 
 
        
          | Saw a WD a while back  that had the same exact symptoms. Swapped carbs with another WD and it ran perfect! IIRC the main jet in the rebuild kit was too small. Hope this info helps. 
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 WD,D15,190XT,7000,8010x2,7060,8070
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 Posted By: cbuttre835
 Date Posted: 15 May 2017 at 8:56pm
 
 
        
          | Jay - it has fresh 100% gasoline.  Did not consider the PTO.  I'm gonna pull the plugs to put in autolite 295s so I'll do it then. 
 Doug / Tracy - it runs a stream about as big as a matchstick or a tad bigger out of the drain plug.  Not as big a stream as the line itself will run, but seems like a pretty good stream for passing through the little hole in the needle/seat.
 
 Lentsch - interesting.  Gonna put the WD45 carb on it and try that.
 
 Gary - good idea, I like it.
 
 
 I cranked it up this afternoon and it ran PERFECT from idle to WOT... for maybe a minute.  As soon as I could feelh
 just a tad of heat off the radiator, the *issue* started.
 
 I looked at the two bolts where the clamp pieces for the distributor are... there's enough old 'field paste' on them and the distributor stem to tell me it hasn't moved (been bumped / loosened) in a long time. Valve lash...  gonna swap all the easy parts before I tear into that.
 
 Appreciate the input, all!
 
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 C w/ 3rd gear out
 
 D15 II factory 3 point
 
 WD (no motor!)(parts for sale!)
 
 WD 45 wide front
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 Posted By: Gary Burnett
 Date Posted: 15 May 2017 at 9:00pm
 
 
        
          | I'd be putting in a condenser. 
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 Posted By: WD45Diesel57
 Date Posted: 16 May 2017 at 7:27am
 
 
        
          | check check your manifold for a vacuum leak, had the same issue on a ferguson, I was at my wits end till I discovered the leak now it runs perfect, I had the carb apart ten times cleaned it, checked the tank and nothing till I found that leak! 
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 1-B's, 2-C, 2-CA's,2-WF, 1-WC,1-G, 3-WD's, 2-WD45, 1-RC, 1-D17 Diesel, 1-D14, 2-D15,1-D17 row crop,1-D19 gas and All Crop 40,60,66,72,90 and 100
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 Posted By: cpg
 Date Posted: 16 May 2017 at 8:04am
 
 
        
          | If you now have the carb to the point where the issue doesn't start until the engine gets warm I would be looking at ignition problems. Coils and condensers are notorious for causing those kind of issues when they get hot. 
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 Posted By: cbuttre835
 Date Posted: 20 May 2017 at 4:41pm
 
 
        
          | Resolved. 
 New condenser fixed it right up.
 
 Going to bench test the old one (which is practically brand new) and another new one - getting a spare for "just in case".
 
 Thanks to everyone, especially Gary Burnett and cpg, for helping me get my mind right.
 
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 C w/ 3rd gear out
 
 D15 II factory 3 point
 
 WD (no motor!)(parts for sale!)
 
 WD 45 wide front
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 Posted By: copyrite1972
 Date Posted: 20 May 2017 at 6:25pm
 
 
        
          | Nope, it's a goner!  You need to send it to Idaho, and I will give it a good "Retirement" home!    Seriously, I can't add to what has already been said, just stick with it, she'll be just fine! 
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 D15 Series II
 
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 Posted By: cbuttre835
 Date Posted: 20 May 2017 at 6:36pm
 
 
        
          | copyrite, I bushhogged about 4 acres this afternoon after I put the new condenser in.  Problem solved.   
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 C w/ 3rd gear out
 
 D15 II factory 3 point
 
 WD (no motor!)(parts for sale!)
 
 WD 45 wide front
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 Posted By: Dave(inMA)
 Date Posted: 20 May 2017 at 7:07pm
 
 
        
          | Really nice when these stories come to successful - and happy - outcomes! Thanks for sharing this one.....I'm betting it'll help someone else! 
 Dave 
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 WC, CA, D14, WD45
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