Replacing rear tires
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=137827
Printed Date: 14 May 2025 at 9:09am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Replacing rear tires
Posted By: Driverdan
Subject: Replacing rear tires
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2017 at 8:43am
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First, I am an old farmer that doesn't like much on tv. So, my evening entertainment is reading all the new questions and answers on this forum. Thank you all for the enjoyment I get from this!!! Second my question....I am replacing tires on my late Dad's WD45. I have always bought a cheap tub of margarine for bead /rim lube. Anybody have better suggestion??? Also what do you all recommend as best bead breaker?? Thanks again ....Dan.. |
Replies:
Posted By: victoryallis
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2017 at 8:46am
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Atleast on implement tires it hard to beat Murphy's oil soap. Go to the Gemplers website see what they offer. ------------- 8030 and 8050MFWD, 7580, 3 6080's, 160, 7060, 175, heirloom D17, Deere 8760 |
Posted By: cpg
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2017 at 9:03am
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Murphy's is good for lube. If the bead comes off fairly easy I have gotten them loose with just a pry bar or couple whacks from a big hammer by the bead (BE CAREFUL doing this so you don't hit and bend the rim or bounce the hammer back into yourself). If it is stuck really good the best bead breaker is a front end loader if you have one, if not a good board or preferably a steel ramp and lay the tire down with the valve stem out and dive up the ramp with another tractor or truck. Takes some creativity sometimes with those old rusty beads. |
Posted By: Driverdan
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2017 at 9:11am
| Thanks for quick replies... I have bought tire lube in past from Gemplers, but found margarine cheaper and easier to get. I replace tires with rim mounted on tractor, so front loader won't work. I use hydraulic bottle jack horizontal between drawback and tire. Just looking for better ideas... |
Posted By: Stan R
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2017 at 9:32am
| Have the tire supplier mount the tires and buy a cup of coffee and watch! |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2017 at 10:03am
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I have watched and paid for three rear tractor tires to be replaced. Well worth the cost to watch a youngster with more muscle and more tools do the work without causing me any ripped skin or cracked bones. Old tires can be really tough and stiff and rusted fast. The tire shop's field truck with air over hydraulic bead breaker makes getting the old tire loose look a lot easier. Gerald J. |
Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2017 at 10:14am
Stan #2 here with my suggestion........pay them whatever it takes so you don't have to do it.  ------------- 1957 WD45 dad's first AC 1968 one-seventy 1956 F40 Ferguson |
Posted By: Hubert (Ga)engine7
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2017 at 11:06am
X2. That is the best way to do it. ------------- Just an old country boy saved by the grace of God. |
Stan R wrote:Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2017 at 11:07am
| The shop that I helped change a couple of my tires had a big long bead breaker slide hammer. Put the tip on the bead slam the slide hammer down over and over. |
Posted By: Johnwilson_osf
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2017 at 11:11am
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We replaced the rear tires on our 6080, while they were still on the tractor. In the end, we used a drop hitch mounted sideways in our receiver. We then backed the truck up until the hitch was right at the bead/rim. Then we drove the truck backward. We had to turn the wheel a few times, but pretty soon it started to budge, and then break. To get the inside bead off we placed pieces of 2x4 at the bead/rim, then wrapped chain around the tire, and hooked to a clevis in the truck. Had to re-adjust a few times, but eventually the truck just pulled it off. John ------------- Allis Express: Eastern PA on Rt 80 8050, 8010, 6080, 190, D14, DA 6035, AA 6690, 5650, Gleaner F2 |
Posted By: alan-nj
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2017 at 11:32am
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I first started hitting this tire wedge 50 years ago.... .  ------------- If ignorance is bliss, than happy days are here again. |
Posted By: cpg
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2017 at 1:16pm
| Yeah, I would agree with the above is how I do it now. I gave my .02 on how to do it when I did it myself but ultimately shop around. I have a local tire place that I just unbolt the rims and take the new tires and tubes and wheels with the old tires on my utility trailer to them and they swap the tire for $30 each. Much easier in my opinion to unbolt the rim and toss the assembly on the trailer than change an old tire myself. |
Posted By: HD6GTOM
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2017 at 3:10pm
| Dan, Go to your local NAPA store and buy a gallon of their rubber lube, but not as slick as some I used over the years. Much better than any dish soap. I used 2-30 inch bars, 2-12 inch bars and a duckbilled tire hammer, left the rims bolted to the tractor. as far as a bead breaker, I wore out 3 of the ratchet operated ones, like gempler sells-in the first year I was in the farm tire business. They would probably work for you, but probably cheaper to drive or haul the tractor to your local farm tire dealer and have them change them. Leave them on the tractor. Every farm tire man I ever knew hates to change them laying on the ground. so much more work that way. |
Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2017 at 3:22pm
| I buy my tires and tubes at the local Ag Tire store. Bring them the old tires they change them no charge. takes them about 20 minutes to do both tires. One set had fluid so they pumped out and disposed of the fluid for me. I didnt want it back in. When they pinched a tube they they demounted and put another new one in. If I buy my tires some where else they charge based on tire size 190 rears were $100 each. |
Posted By: Driverdan
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2017 at 4:06pm
| Thanks guys, I appreciate all feedback. (Plus I really enjoy reading forum). As far as tire dealer doing it, last year I ruptured a tire on other WD45 and new tire was 340 bucks, plus 350 bucks for labor (3 1/2 hours at 100 bucks per hour. I never saw a person move as slow as the kid (probably paid hourly) that did labor. Plus the tube came to nearly 800 bucks. These prices are too steep for this oldtimer. So...I went back to doing my own..Dan |
Posted By: Stan R
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2017 at 6:54pm
| Methinks you over paid. Call around, get a fixed price. |
Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2017 at 7:30pm
I had my local shop come out to the farm for a service call a month ago - they charge a flat rate, so I got them to mount 4 new tires at one time. The cost of the tires was the most on the bill. Two 18.4 x 34 Galaxy tires for the 190XT, 14.9 x 26 BKTs for the D15 diesel, and 14.9 x 28 Galaxy tires (not mounted) to go on the 54 WD45 in the future. Definitely a job for younger people. For the price you pay, it saves you a lot of pain and agony! http://s526.photobucket.com/user/szalmyr/media/190XT/DSC04522_zpslclg3uyj.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  ------------- '49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080 |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2017 at 7:56pm
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I got a gadget, similar to this one, from Gemplers, coupla years ago: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200322827_200322827?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Automotive%20%3E%20Tire%20Equipment%20%3E%20Bead%20Breakers&utm_campaign=ESCO&utm_content=145557&gclid=Cj0KEQjwrYbIBRCgnY-OluOk89EBEiQAZER58gLq78ZjS5k7iW1OD7rDmrY_lvJDAs2pg5pQ8gO07I0aAt_s8P8HAQ" rel="nofollow - http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200322827_200322827?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Automotive%20%3E%20Tire%20Equipment%20%3E%20Bead%20Breakers&utm_campaign=ESCO&utm_content=145557&gclid=Cj0KEQjwrYbIBRCgnY-OluOk89EBEiQAZER58gLq78ZjS5k7iW1OD7rDmrY_lvJDAs2pg5pQ8gO07I0aAt_s8P8HAQ Have yet to find a tire it won't move. I use murphy's or walmart house brand oil soap...
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Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2017 at 8:52pm
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I just (last week) had a 16.9 x 28 remounted on the rim (that I had repaired). They used a specialty green tire grease that was very slippery. He charged me $38 (including tax) for patching the tube and mounting the tire. I gave the two guys each a $5 "tip" (which I do every time I go there). ...and I left with no aches or pains from fighting with the tire myself!!! |
Posted By: chuck (WI)
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2017 at 10:21pm
| Don't put yourself through the Missouri, the best money I ever spent on all my repairs was having the tire shop change my tires, for what they charge it is not worth the cussing and swearing. |
Posted By: dt1050
Date Posted: 28 Apr 2017 at 5:31am
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my old man uses a splitting maul, he ground the end down so it wasn't sharp. I used to use an old plow jeep, bottle jack and a tree. put the tire against the plow jeep to hold it up. turn a hydraulic bottle jack sideways against the tree and a board on the tire were the jack hits (keeps from puncturing a tire) then just pump the jack up. I have a 20 ton bottle jack, don't know if ya need one that big or not. first time I did it I damn near crapped my pants when the tire blew off the bead!!!  after several surgeries on my spine, I now pay to have it done. After my 2nd surgery I couldn't do anything, I spent most of the days on several tractor forums reading and posting. sure helped with the depression, might not of been able to do much, but helping folks out made me feel like I was doing something useful!! Edit: sorry about the language... ------------- Just cause it's orange don't make it a tractor, there's only one..Allis Chalmers |
Posted By: WNYBill
Date Posted: 28 Apr 2017 at 6:33am
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So, my 70 year old friend (know each other for 70 years) and I decided that before we died we needed to change a tractor tire. I had a 16.9x28 that needed changing. He had a old brass washing machine pump for the calcium and I had a barn we could work in. Pumped the calcium out into a plastic barrel, everything is good so far. Break the bead with a railroad jack, inside was almost easy. OUTSIDE was a different story, all we did was push the tractor around, finally chained the thing to a post with 20 foot of log chain. Forgot to tell you about the chairs, we are old so we needed to sit ....a lot. We got the tire broke down but our old arthritic hands couldn't get the tube with the remaining 4-5 gallons of calcium out of the tire. Had to wait for my son to get home from a paying job to help us, correction.....do it. Put the new tube in, learned new words, pinched fingers, learned more new words. Sat in chairs.... a lot. Finally were in a position to pump calcium back into tire, that went pretty well.... we had a machine to do it! Unchained the tractor and put all the jacks, hammers, tire irons, pinch bars, mauls and crow bars away. Tire/tube did not leak, we didn't put it on backwards, actually drove the tractor out of the barn. Moral.......don't be a damn fool, hire a tire company to do it and watch.....they are young and have lots of neat toys. Oh, I recommend a chair and cold beer! BUT WE DID-ER. My story and I'm sticking to it! Bill
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Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 28 Apr 2017 at 7:20am
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I would never go back to that tire shop again. Yikes!! Last flat I had on the one-seventy they changed the tube and it was $100 and that included the tube. Might be a tad bit more for pulling the whole tire and then remounting a new tire but that's just insane. ------------- 1957 WD45 dad's first AC 1968 one-seventy 1956 F40 Ferguson |
Posted By: Jordan(OH)
Date Posted: 28 Apr 2017 at 9:17am
| $79 flat rate for service charge to farm here. |
Posted By: Driverdan
Date Posted: 28 Apr 2017 at 9:45am
| I envy you guys that have reasonable tire shops in your area!!!! Changing tractor tires isn't as easy for me as it was 50 years ago, but we only have one tire shop in this area that will service farm tires. And he is NOT cheap. 100 bucks an hour, and you pay from service truck leaving shop til returned to shop. (And a buck fifty a mile from shop to farm). Thanks for all hints, thoughts, and ideas. I appreciate it... Dan |
Posted By: dt1050
Date Posted: 28 Apr 2017 at 10:15am
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a friends father in law bought rear tires, tubes for his case 930 and had them filled with calcium. decided he would use his Prentiss loader on his log truck to mount them. first tire went as planned, second one started to slip off so he grabbed the handle and squeezed the grapple right through both side walls!!! ya could probly hear him swearing from 3 states away!!! ------------- Just cause it's orange don't make it a tractor, there's only one..Allis Chalmers |
Posted By: Dusty MI
Date Posted: 28 Apr 2017 at 10:32am
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Several we did the "Bridge Crossing", after the crossing I parked next to a Ford that had new imported rear tires on it. One of my rear tires was a Firestone Field and Road, not new put had very good tread. I got to looking and my not new tire had deeper tread than the Ford imported new ones. Dusty
------------- 917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express" |
Posted By: dt1050
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2017 at 5:58am
found this way on you tube and tried it this morning, worked great!!! tire was deflated, put 4x4 on each end of the tire close to the rim. I used a chunk of steal I had to put over the 4x4's, but a 4x4 or bigger would probly work. then rap a chain through the rim and over the jack. pump up the jack and it pushes the tire down off the bead. I put some diesel fuel around the bead the night before, don't know if it helped or not, but it worked. dt ------------- Just cause it's orange don't make it a tractor, there's only one..Allis Chalmers |
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2017 at 6:24am
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Breaking the bead is probably the easiest part of changing a tire. I have a sliding hammer and have never had a problem breaking the bead. (I'm not saying it isn't hard work!) Getting the tire off and back on without damaging the tube is definitely the worst part of the job, especially if you are working alone. There is nothing worse than pinching a brand new tube and having to dismount the tire again and patch a very expensive tube. Getting the tire to seat on the rim can be frustrating, too. |
Posted By: Stan R
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2017 at 6:38am
| I'm betting the diesel fuel helped with the removal of the old tire as rubber gets softened with diesel. Probably something you don't want to use on a new tire though. |
Posted By: Dads 45
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2017 at 9:43pm
| Back when many pickups had rubber gaskets around windshields, I pulled the new glass into the trucks with a small diameter rope. I wiped brake fluid on the rubber and they slid in very nicely. Didn`t hurt the rubber and was super slippy. |
Posted By: bobkyllo
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2017 at 11:55am
| I need to charge more. I charge 60 an hour from the time I show up till I'm done. I charge minimum one hour regardless if I'm there for only half hour. I do not charge milage either. |
Posted By: dt1050
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2017 at 12:31pm
how soon can ya get to central pa!!!! the method i mentioned earlier worked great on 2 of the tires, however, the last tire that was on the tractor took all afternoon just to get the one bead broke loose....took up till just now to get the other side!! now to deal with the rusty rim!! oh, and find all the tools that I threw!!!------------- Just cause it's orange don't make it a tractor, there's only one..Allis Chalmers |
Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2017 at 1:00pm
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The best way to keep from pinching a tube......... Put one side of the tire on the rim Insert and arrange the tube in the tire and get the valve stem in place. Now put SOME air into the tube. Enough to make it the same size as the tire. Take the valve stem out and let the air out. Put the valve stem back in. Now put just a LITTLE air in the tube. Enough to inflate it about half way. This will help to keep the inner tube away and keep you from poking holes in it, or pinching it. Now put the other side of the tire on the rim (being careful of course). Just inflate to the correct pressure. VERY simple and easy. Just takes a little practice...... ------------- "Allis-Express" 19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
Posted By: DennisA (IL)
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2017 at 2:05pm
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I find that removing rear tractor tires is simple when you have the correct tools to do the job. Are used to fight all afternoon to get a tractor tire off, but when I got the correct tools know it's a cakewalk. ------------- Thanks & God Bless Dennis |
Posted By: dt1050
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2017 at 3:44pm
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also, if the hole for your valve stem is rusted 3 inches round, duct tape ain't gonna fix it!! the d14 I bought was like that. it also had a 11/12.? x28 tube in a 13.?x26 tire? ------------- Just cause it's orange don't make it a tractor, there's only one..Allis Chalmers |
Posted By: Driverdan
Date Posted: 02 May 2017 at 7:22pm
| Clever idea with Jack and chains to break bead!! However I do tire while still mounted on tractor, so may not work for me. I agree with WFOwner that it's not fun to pinch tube and redo all work to fix (been there, done that) but I disagree about bead breaking... that definitely is the worst part.. Dan |
Posted By: dt1050
Date Posted: 03 May 2017 at 4:25am
agree with ya, once the bead was broke the tires came off easy. I took my tire, tube and wheel to my dads garage to have them put it on. they had to inflate and deflate it 4-5 times and put lots of rim guard on to get the tire to seat right, it didn't want to center the rim on the tire? glad I took it to him...lol the last tire that was a @#$# to get off the rim, I used the jack and chain method to get a gap started at the bead, then used an air chisel to get the tire uncorroded (not sure that's a word) from the wheel. don't think the jack and chain method would work for ya, gonna be hard to hold all that stuff in place. ------------- Just cause it's orange don't make it a tractor, there's only one..Allis Chalmers |
Posted By: dt1050
Date Posted: 03 May 2017 at 5:32am
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forgot to mention. if tires are still on the tractor. for the inside bead use a bottle jack and put against the tractor (what ever lines up that'll handle the load, I wouldn't use the pto or anything). then just pump up the jack against the bead, might use a board between the jack and tire if it's a good tire. for the outside I'd just take the wheel off and turn the wheel around so the other bead is on the inside of the tractor and repeat the above. hope this helps dt... ------------- Just cause it's orange don't make it a tractor, there's only one..Allis Chalmers |
Posted By: BradH
Date Posted: 03 May 2017 at 7:04am
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Several years ago my dad and I replaced both rear tires and tubes on his JD 4440. Got it finished and went back to the house for the night with a job well done. Next day went to the barn and the tractor was leaning to the right. It wasn't nearly as much fun to take the tire back off and patch a brand new tube. Lots of words to be said about that one. A year or two later we did the tires on his 4430, they had been on the tractor for more than 20 years if I'm not mistaken. The steel belts were showing in places. It was July 4, a hot, humid, rainy day, with no air moving through the barn. I ran his slide hammer bead breaker for half the morning trying to get the first bead on the first tire started. It made for a really fun day. I can't wait to see what the tires on my WD 45 have in store for me. But I'm thinking about saving up to have it done now. Especially after remembering the stories I just told. Later, Brad ------------- Warning! Blind man with a tractor! Head for the hills! |