Alternator for C
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=137679
Printed Date: 08 Nov 2025 at 10:27pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Alternator for C
Posted By: Runamuck
Subject: Alternator for C
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2017 at 9:33am
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While mowing with my '41 C, my homemade concoction of a bracket holding the 10 si alternator broke. Wondering who has the best set of brackets to mount it. Also, I had bought some A&I belts for them last fall and I see they read 22/32; will these work? They stand a little proud in the groove and seem just a bit too short. Or is there a smaller pulley that would work. Last question: I have read that you can take the screws out of 10 si alts and rotate body 180 to move position of plug as it is hitting block. Tried this and didn't seem able to move, or do the right brackets allow room for wires behind alt? Thanks, Bill. |
Replies:
Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2017 at 10:04am
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This is the bracket that I've made a bunch of. a Large GM alternator will go behind the drag link and still use the original size belt. I have some of theses ready to weld up if you'd like to buy one. 
------------- If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere. Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2017 at 1:08pm
| That looks like the bracket on mine I just didn't weld the tub in place. You'll have to slightly pry the two case halves apart to clock it. There is not enough to room behind the alt for the wires unless you heat and bend the drag link. It's much easier and looks better to reclock the alternator. Be careful to not break the bushes doing it. If you tale the rear half all the way off you can pushes the brushes in and stick a straightened paper clip thru the small hole in the back of the case that's what it's there for. Once you reassemble both halves pull the paper lip and the burshes contact the commuter ring. |
Posted By: Runamuck
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2017 at 1:40pm
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Thanks guys, I'll try again to reclock. It didn't want to move and it's a new alternator so don't want to damage. Paul, how much for those brackets welded and ready to bolt on? What do you use for the top bracket? Also, if a guy wanted to flip the drag link to other side, will it just work that way? I thought the ends would be tapered. What do people use for new ends and boots? In case you haven't noticed, I have a lot of questions. Thanks, Bill. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2017 at 4:51pm
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Like DAVE said, you take the screws out holding the two halves of the alternator together, then spread apart about 1/4 inch with a screw driver, or prybar. Go too far and the brushes will fall off the armature, then you got to pull it apart and assemble... just pop the two halves apart slightly, then rotate to the next hole and tap back together. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2017 at 8:01pm
| The drag link ends are tapered. They won't go in the other way. I don't have a tensioner bar on either one of mine the alternator is up tight against the block. I adjusted the tension the same way allis did. Loosten the lock bolts on the fan pulley turn one half in relation to the other they have angled slots. Making the pulley narrower pushes the belt out farther causing the belt to get tighter. With the altenerator tight against the block gives you plenty of room for the drag link to clear. |