WD45 Front Axle Fun & Frolic - Update
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=137569
Printed Date: 31 Aug 2025 at 4:00am
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Topic: WD45 Front Axle Fun & Frolic - Update
Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Subject: WD45 Front Axle Fun & Frolic - Update
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2017 at 8:33pm
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Two days ago I adjusted the rear wheels on my WD45. Took 5 minutes, partly as this was the first time I'd ever done this. This morning I started working on moving the front wheels in to line up with the rears. As easy as adjusting the rears was, this promises to be the job from h*&%. I started on the right side. It took the hot wrench and my impact wrench to remove the two bolts that secure the stub axle to the center axle. The bolt in the clamp on the tie rod came out without any fuss. So far, so good, I thought. I've got this! Which immediately demonstrated that pride does indeed go before a fall....neither the stub axle nor the tie rod stub would move a millimeter. I decided to remove the tie rod since the tie rod end and the rod itself seem welded together by rust. Time for a quick trip to NAPA for a pickle bar as neither end of the rod wanted to come loose. No sweat - I needed one in my tool chest anyway! Before I return to the battle tomorrow armed with my pickle bar, are there any tips on getting the two parts of the tie rod apart? Thanks for your help! Dave
------------- WC, CA, D14, WD45 |
Replies:
Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2017 at 10:49pm
| heat and rap on the side of it with a hammer on the anvil start working the rust out the ends |
Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2017 at 11:32pm
| You don't need a pickle bar on these small tie rod ends. Just hit the eye on the end of the tie rod on the side with a heavy hammer and it will pop loose in a few licks. Loosen the tie rod nut first and run it to the end of the tie rod to protect the threads. |
Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2017 at 6:02am
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Thanks for the advice, guys. Much appreciated. Another question - I'm wondering how much of the tie rod "stub" is buried inside the tie rod tube? The exposed length is about 5.75". ------------- WC, CA, D14, WD45 |
Posted By: Nathan (SD)
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2017 at 7:43am
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The tie rods are made to extend as far as the axle. |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2017 at 8:00am
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The tie rods will come apart with the fire wrench. I heat a part until red hot then move to another part until I've heated all of the area where they are slid together. ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2017 at 8:37am
| If the end are very loose and wore you can buy new ones about $70 each or $140 total for everything. |
Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2017 at 10:33am
Thanks for all that, guys. Hoping I can get time today to get them apart.  ------------- WC, CA, D14, WD45 |
Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2017 at 10:59am
| I gave up on my tierods and replaced them. The new ones move real easy. I don't think the originals had been moved since new the boots were shot and they had play in them. I did the beat and heat on the axle sections and used a high lift jack to spread them . I decided to not move them on the other WD 45 there staying where they are. |
Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2017 at 11:07am
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Oh boy! Hope I have better luck than you, Dave. ------------- WC, CA, D14, WD45 |
Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2017 at 3:23pm
| I figured if they broke when I was trying to free them up they needed to be replaced anyway. Even though none of my tractors ever go on the road. steering and brakes are the two most things on the tractor. |
Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2017 at 3:23pm
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OK. Tie rods are off the tractor and have been heated a LOT. Waiting for them to cool so I can try to move the inner rod. One boot is shot. There's a little slop in the ends that attach to the steering "plate" under the engine. Stay tuned!
------------- WC, CA, D14, WD45 |
Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2017 at 3:34pm
| You may already know this, but you can spray some good penetrating oil on the crack and in the holes while it's hot. Somehow the heat helps to wick the oil up inside. Run out and spray on some oil! lol |
Posted By: Gary Burnett
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2017 at 3:35pm
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Drop them in a bucket of oil and go buy new ones,by the time the new ones wear out those MIGHT be loose. |
Posted By: Tony.Or
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2017 at 4:57pm
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Dave ! Your tie rods are ordered.. Thanks Tony ------------- http://www.tonystractors.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.tonystractors.com |
Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2017 at 4:59pm
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I have tried all the tricks I know and all of your suggestions. Those *&%$# rods won't budge. Two of the ends are sloppy......life is too short. I have ordered replacements. The axles are all set - all bolted up with new #8 bolts and a dose of anti-seize on each. Thanks for the encouragement, guys! And thanks to Tony for the parts.
------------- WC, CA, D14, WD45 |
Posted By: DanC911
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2017 at 9:01pm
I've used wax on stuck bolts and nuts. Heat it red hot and touch a old candle to the threads. It gets in there and loosens things up. Don't see why the same trick wouldn't work here. ------------- 1950 WD, 1955 B, 66 Jacobsen Chief-O-Matic, 68 Simplicity 2110, 77 IH Cub Cadet 1450 w/front loader |
Allis dave wrote:Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2017 at 10:22pm
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Thanks, Dan. I haven't tossed the old tie rods yet....will try this technique. It'd be nice to find something that does the job! ------------- WC, CA, D14, WD45 |
Posted By: Gary Burnett
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2017 at 8:02am
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If you're interested in messing with the old ones I've had good results of tying one end to something solid and hooking a com-a-long to the other end and keep them under constant pressure sooner or later they usually move. |
Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2017 at 8:05am
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Interesting, Gary - I've been thinking about ways to put constant pressure - either push or pull - on them. I was thinking that constant 'push' might bend something, but I like constant 'pull'. May just try this! ------------- WC, CA, D14, WD45 |
Posted By: Gary Burnett
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2017 at 8:13am
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Just try to get a notch on the com-a-long when you go by sometimes. |
Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2017 at 11:19am
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Got one of them strung up between two stout trees. Used a load binder...easier to get a notch than with the come-a-long. I think one of the trees is starting to lean. ------------- WC, CA, D14, WD45 |
Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 25 Apr 2017 at 6:07pm
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New tie rods arrived today and are installed! They seem very solid and should certainly do the job. I coated the inner rods with Never Seize - hope that helps. Of course, it's now pouring rain here, so getting into the field with the plow will have to wait a day or so. I've had one of the old tie rods strung between two trees - it's been under tension for 3 days now but hasn't budged. Put the other one in my 20 ton press and 'leaned' on it until the rod began to bow. With the new ones installed, I guess I'm stubborn enough to want to get the old ones apart! Thanks for all the help with this! ------------- WC, CA, D14, WD45 |