All crop 66
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=136032
Printed Date: 21 Jun 2025 at 4:28pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: All crop 66
Posted By: Travis2766
Subject: All crop 66
Date Posted: 09 Mar 2017 at 8:04pm
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Looked at an all crop 66 that is for sale today. Needs an new lower canvas (no surprise) but the concave is rusted out. Is this something that can just be patched over? Or does it need to be completely replaced? How hard of a job is it to replace? Can I have a new one bent up or do I need to buy a replacement. Sorry for all the questions but I don't have much experience/knowledge with the all crops. ------------- 190XT Series III, D17 Series IV, D15 Series II, All Crop 66 and a whole mess of equipment. |
Replies:
Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2017 at 8:59am
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If you need canvases, look up Colby Canvas Co. in Colby, KS. The owner, Steve Molsted, is a great guy and his products are 2nd to none. They cost a little, but not near as much as other places. He sells rubberized canvases, so they are made to last. How bad is the concave rusted out? Is the whole bottom completely gone, or are there just a bunch of small holes? If your concave bars are still bolted in place, installing a replacement is very easy. On my 60A, I actually found part of a concave overlay and installed it on mine. On mine, it looked like Swiss cheese underneath, but the concave bars were still in place. The piece I put in to overlay the holes has the curvature of the concave, and is the whole width of the cylinder, but it's only a little over a foot wide, because that's all the area that had rust holes in my original concave. To install it was very easy, for me (but I'm pretty skinny). I started by twisting off all the rusty bolts that held the 2nd concave bar on, punching the bolts out, then sliding the bar out the inspection/drain hole on the left side. Then I took my overlay and fed it in from the back, and turning the cylinder backwards. Turning the cylinder pulled the overlay down underneath it, and put it in the perfect spot. I tucked the forward end of the overlay underneath the back of the 1st concave bar. I then slid the #2 concave back in through the little round inspection hole. Now the most difficult part...to put new concave bolts back in, I crawled through the clean out door behind the cylinder, then using a punch to line up the holes, put the bolts in. I started on the left side, then worked my way over, and had no issues. I put some lock-tite on the bolts to help keep the nuts from backing off. Hope this helps. You'll find if you get the All-Crop, they are great little machines!! |
Posted By: aras
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2017 at 9:09am
| On a side note I have a 66 for parts and I'm not that far away -- those parts I do not have |
Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2017 at 10:05am
| Tom Yaz at all cropharvester.com has everything you need. He sells the concave bars and the semicircle metal pan that they bolt onto. Usually I see where is pan is rusted out. |
Posted By: Travis2766
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2017 at 10:14am
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I can't see how bad it's rusted out, it's covered with a bunch of small patches (liscence plates, gotta love farmers) so I'm assuming it's pretty rusted out. My hopes were to possibly remove all the plates patching it and just recover the whole thing with a new sheetmetal "patch" but with the concave bars mounted to this area do I risk tearing those off when it's running if the exiting metal is too thin? I like Creston's ideal of redrilling the holes and bolting the concave bars though the whole mess. ------------- 190XT Series III, D17 Series IV, D15 Series II, All Crop 66 and a whole mess of equipment. |
Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2017 at 3:27pm
| Tom Yaz also sells smaller shaped patches. |
Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2017 at 10:39pm
I can't say I wouldn't use license plates either if I was an old timer.  If you could get a photo or two, (one from the underside after you remove the plates) and post it here I could give you a better idea of what to do. Yes, without a overlay if the metal gets too thin it may rip the bottom bar out while combining. Not *too* likely, as I cut with mine full of holes on about 5 acres, but I feel much better with the overlay. You don't need to buy a bunch of fancy stuff. Another member, Combine Chris, is pretty knowledgeable on All-Crops and he may chime in. He told me how to do an overlay on the cheap, but his method requires removing the cylinder. I say just get a sheet (or 2 or 3 smaller ones) and roll them under the cylinder using the method I did, then the cylinder holds them in place while you bolt them in. You can always pull the bottom concave bar out first, then lay it on top of your overlay before you put it in, then mark the holes and have the holes punched out. I say punched because they are square holes, because the concave bar bolts are carriage bolts, and the shoulders go into the hole. It's so much easier that way, because then the bolt doesn't spin while you're tightening the nut. |
Travis2766 wrote:Posted By: combinechris
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2017 at 7:51am
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Not complicated to do . I have put several in. Only thing is I've taken the cylinder out to do it . I use 12 or 14 ga. Steel . I bolt it under the shelling plate and bend it in place by rolling in the bottom and bolting it with the concave bars ------------- 35 combines and 15 forage harvesters. mostly allis combines and equipment.WTB 2 row cornhead for a 90 |
Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2017 at 9:42am
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Yep, like Chris says, not particularly hard, just takes some time. I just remembered, when I got my great-granddad's 60A home, it had duct tape over some of the holes. Is that worse than license plates? Lol
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