Allis 185 Shift Lever Removal Question
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=135517
Printed Date: 07 Nov 2025 at 5:38am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Allis 185 Shift Lever Removal Question
Posted By: gjac185
Subject: Allis 185 Shift Lever Removal Question
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2017 at 10:39pm
Replies:
Posted By: gjac185
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2017 at 10:47pm
My shift lever on my 185 broke in two just above the roll pin that retains the dust cover, spring etc. I would like to remove just the shift lever in order to have it welded. Can the shift lever be removed without removing the control cover that it runs through?
|
Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 26 Feb 2017 at 7:16am
Yes,there's a snap ring under the dust cover that has to come out. It can be a bear to remove.
|
Posted By: gjac185
Date Posted: 26 Feb 2017 at 11:52am
Thanks for the info, I was not sure if the snap ring retained the lever or not. Right now I cannot get the roll pin out because it appears to be rusted in. I don't have any pin punches so I plan to get some tomorrow after work and give it another try next weekend (I am sort of a weekend farmer LOL). So will the lever just go back into place correctly/easily in the rod/fork arrangement given that I do not allow the tractor to move to disturb their location? Sorry for the follow up question, but I am a bit apprehensive about prying this thing out of where it is.
Thanks again.
|
Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 26 Feb 2017 at 5:17pm
|
Getting the snap ring out is usually the biggest challenge. Do not lose(drop) the square headed alignment pins into the hole or you will be removing the top of the transmission to go fishing. Once removed, you can look into the hole where the lever goes and see the shift rails with a small flashlight. If the tractor is in neutral, all three of the shift rails will line up. If it's not in neutral , use a long rod or punch to reach down in and get the one rail to line up with the other two. Putting the lever back requires getting the square heads of the pins to line up with the grooves in the lever. A small screw driver helps with that. I always grind the snap ring ends so that a small screw driver can be used to remove it if needed. Perhaps a good welder could fix it by welding it in place and not even bother to remove it. Maybe make a sleeve that would go up the lever and help to reinforce it?
|
Posted By: gjac185
Date Posted: 26 Feb 2017 at 7:07pm
Thank you very much Lynn for your detailed reply, yes I thought about welding it in place, I just did not know if there were any parts that might not be able to take the heat below it. Based on what you said there should not be not a problem with the heat.
I currently have the tractor in 1st or 2nd (cannot remember where the hydraulic shift was), and there is enough shifter rod sticking up to allow me to put a pair of vice grips on it to shift it to neutral if needed. Should I put it in neutral?
The break is right at the bend where it begins to goes forward toward the engine (as you know it is sort of a Z shape), so if I do use a sleeve it will need to be oversized to take in account the bend, so I am not sure how much structure I could get from doing it. Alternatively I could make an angle from two pieces of pipe to get the structure I need, just have not decided what to do quite yet.
I also thought about try to find a NOS or salvage part (the shifter has been welded before by a previous owner), but I have not had a chance to look around much since it just happened yesterday morning. I did however look a little online last night and managed to find one on ebay, but it is about $175 including the cover plate. At that price I thought seriously about trying to do another repair on it.
Thank you again for your reply it really helped.
|
Posted By: Nathan (SD)
Date Posted: 27 Feb 2017 at 9:29am
If you weld it in place, be sure to attch the ground clamp of the welder to the top half of the shifter. Unhandy, but important to do.
|
Posted By: gjac185
Date Posted: 27 Feb 2017 at 7:08pm
Thanks for the welding advice. I am going to need to do some grinding also to get rid of the old weld so I hopefully can get better penetration than the original had.
|
|