When bad things happen to good WDs
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=134517
Printed Date: 06 Nov 2025 at 4:50pm
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Topic: When bad things happen to good WDs
Posted By: john0030
Subject: When bad things happen to good WDs
Date Posted: 31 Jan 2017 at 10:12pm
Found myself stuck in the middle of the street today just about to head back up the driveway for another pass of plowing snow with the back blade when I lost steering...
Looked behind me and sure enough there was the bolt that holds the steering shaft to the universal joint sitting there in the road just laughing at me. Managed to finagle that bolt back in, but the nut ran away. got the bolt in and gingerly got the old girl back up the driveway. The threads are fragged, going to have to get a replacement bolt and nut tomorrow.
While I was working on getting the steering shaft temporarily reconnected, noticed the worm shaft support was not actually connected to the frame. After further inspection, its clear the bolt had broken off long ago and the previous owner just left it that way. For now, the support is just there for the ride.
Going to try to use a reverse screw set to remove the old bolt from the worm shaft support. Any advice or tips on replacing the nut and bolt holding the steering shaft to the universal joint would be greatly appreciated.
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51'WD
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Replies:
Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 31 Jan 2017 at 10:22pm
Do you have access to welding gear? If so, perhaps you could weld a nut to the broken bolt and remove it that way. One advantage of this technique is that it heats the bolt a lot and can break it loose from the threads, making it a lot easier to remove the bolt remains.
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WC, CA, D14, WD45
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Posted By: john0030
Date Posted: 31 Jan 2017 at 10:28pm
No welding gear, but that is a great idea, THANKS. supposed to be a break in the snow for a few days this week. I can remove the universal joint and slide the support right off and have some one weld a bolt on and try that.
Also, the bolt broke clean off on the other side (inner side) of the frame.
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51'WD
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Posted By: shameless (ne)
Date Posted: 31 Jan 2017 at 11:14pm
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**going out to jump the RPM's up a bit**
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Posted By: RickM(MO)
Date Posted: 31 Jan 2017 at 11:30pm
John, I think originally from the factory the pin was tapered and pressed into a tapered hole in the shaft. The small end of the tapered pin was then swaged (SP?) over to keep it tight. Check the hole and see if it is tapered. If so, if you just put a straight bolt or pin back in it will still be loose and subject to more wear than a tight fit. You might be able to get a tapered pin at a good hardware store or at McMaster-Carr. On my WD 45 I noticed the tapered pin was loose and worried about it falling out on the road on a tractor ride. I took the pin out and drilled and tapped into the small end of it so I could add a screw and washer to keep it pulled tight into the tapered hole. I also applied Loc-Tite on the pin and screw when I put it in. I try to remember to check it often, but so far it has not loosened up. Here are pic's of before and after.
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Missouri Allis Chalmers Club Member; 1954 WD45 (NF), 611LTD & 811GT Lawn Tractors
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Posted By: Gary Burnett
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2017 at 2:50am
Posted By: Butch(OH)
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2017 at 6:31am
Had that happen with the WD while wide open in road gear. Was glad the brakes worked and were properly adjusted so they worked together I coulda been in deep do-do. I made a pin and welded it in place. I will worry about how to deal with that if I ever have to. When the WD was done I pulled the WC in the shop and did same thing. Somebody may cuss me some day when those tractors have to come apart but nobody is going to get hurt or killed when the farmer fix bolts fall out either.
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Posted By: macvette
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2017 at 9:19am
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Drilled mine out 'cause I had no success getting pin drove out, plus a miserable spot to work at. Just put a bolt back in. Had to grind some off bolt head and nut to clear, but much improved over the "almost" falling apart U joint that was on there.
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2017 at 9:25am
Don't use a bolt. A roll pin will hammer in and stay in place. The original was a snug fit pin with the head peened to fill a small chamfer in the U joint. That makes em real har to get out from either direction.
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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Posted By: wiplowboy
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2017 at 10:25am
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Merle that tractor may have had some warranty left. If you want me to check I will need original bill of sale with correct serial number Thanks Jim LOL.
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Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2017 at 10:58am
I also used a bolt and nut and applied thread locker.
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1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy
1956 F40 Ferguson
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Posted By: john0030
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2017 at 11:29am
Thanks for all the info everyone and that looks really great RickM.
For now, Given lack of equipment and access to the different kinds of bolts/pins, I'll just be using a 3/8 bolt with a lock nut and keeping a close watch on it daily.
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51'WD
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Posted By: bryan/silex
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2017 at 3:44pm
air hammer and a bit with a point will make short work of factory pin,,,,put it back in the same way,,, I would never put a bolt in they always come loose
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WD's and 45's B's and c's and a few red ones , ALLIS EXPRESS also
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