1939 RC Adventure
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=133882
Printed Date: 26 Aug 2025 at 6:02am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: 1939 RC Adventure
Posted By: KD8NGV
Subject: 1939 RC Adventure
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2017 at 5:55pm
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Welcome to hopefully helpful thread about my adventure with my 1939 RC. I found this tractor in West Salem, Ohio on craigslist. I bought it January 10, 2017 and brought her home to Adams Acres January 14th. I have always wanted an RC and I am happy to have added her to my family. I have been looking around and have not seen much documentation online. Hopefully this will help you and me on this adventure. Who knows what will happen, but here goes. Thanks, Kevin
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Replies:
Posted By: KD8NGV
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2017 at 6:08pm
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The pictures that were on Craigslist...  |
Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2017 at 6:59pm
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Looks nice! So an RC is a B engine in a WC. I WISH they would've put a WC engine in a B/C! I think they actually made a prototype. The WB.
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Posted By: KD8NGV
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2017 at 8:07pm
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Posted By: KD8NGV
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2017 at 8:09pm
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Posted By: KD8NGV
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2017 at 8:10pm
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Posted By: KD8NGV
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2017 at 8:11pm
How cool would a WB have been?? Kevin |
CrestonM wrote:Posted By: KD8NGV
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2017 at 8:15pm
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So when I went to buy the tractor, I took some more pictures. Here is some more information on the old girl. -1939 -Serial Number RC3001 -Under hood exhaust -Starter -Generator -No lights or electrical box... ( I am investigating this ) -The guy who I bought it off of had used a 12 volt to start the tractor, and boy she started nice. -Magneto (Need to look into what Mag it is.) Here are the pictures I took that night. I wanted something to look at as I went an hour home. Kevin |
Posted By: KD8NGV
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2017 at 8:52pm
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Since I can not embed (If you know how to, please let me know.) I am going to put out a link. Let me know if this is ok by your guys. https://1drv.ms/f/s!Auo4c4_wWK4Mi6Z0dWvDwciyOHGMrw" rel="nofollow - https://1drv.ms/f/s!Auo4c4_wWK4Mi6Z0dWvDwciyOHGMrw Kevin |
Posted By: KD8NGV
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2017 at 9:28pm
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Ok, so my general rule of thumb is when I get a new machine, be it a lawn mower, truck, or tractor, the first thing I do is introduce her to the others and welcome her home. Then after that is to change all the fluids. When I was inspecting the RC I saw that the transmission had oil shaped like a sponge and not enough in the resevour. Check that, I made a mental note. Then I looked at the rear differential housing: It looked like it had been painted over many times over many years. 'I bet that the oil is real bad in there,' I said to myself. The crankcase oil looked a nice shade of amber when I looked the RC over the first time we met, but it was still slated to be changed. Along with those oils, I will change the coolant and final drive oils. A question I have for those of you reading this is: Does the transmission and rear differential share oil? I drained the "oil" in the transmission and rear differential tonight, January 16th. I will share that post soon. Tomorrow is my birthday and I do not know if I will have time to go out to the shop tomorrow. Kevin |
Posted By: shameless (ne)
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2017 at 9:37pm
| what else is for sale there? man that would be Eldons play pen, you see all them tires and wheels in the background! what was in the big shed since all the tractors seem to be sitting outside! |
Posted By: KD8NGV
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2017 at 9:41pm
I am not sure what was in all of the sheds, but the guy I bought it off of sells a bunch of Allis Parts. He has a bunch of tractors around from little B's and CA's to large 4 digit tractors. One shed was full or what looked like harvested parts. If you are interested I can give you the name and number of the place. |
Posted By: JMB984
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2017 at 9:48pm
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Please do! |
Posted By: TomMN
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2017 at 10:06pm
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Looks like a nice one. To your question, yes they share gear oil since there is no seal between them, but you will need to fill and drain them separately. There are a whole bunch of differences between the RC and a WC so it is a bit of a stretch to call it a WC with a B motor, but that was the basic idea behind it. I took lots of pictures while going through mine, you can look at them here: http://www.allis01.com/fossto/39RC/ac-RC.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.allis01.com/fossto/39RC/ac-RC.html |
Posted By: AllisChalmers8070
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2017 at 10:28pm
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Nice tractor and thanks for taking us along for the ride. Is that a 220 I see!? ------------- 180 190XT 7045 7060 S88 |
Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2017 at 11:00pm
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Hard to tell from the angle of the picture, but the Mag looks like a "K" series Fairbanks/Morse. (K4B)
------------- 39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife |
Posted By: Pat the Plumber CIL
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2017 at 11:01pm
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I always thought the RC would be a great tractor to take to shows . Fairly light and small , but still big enough to ride on a tractor drive . Odd and rare enough to make it special , but enough of them around where you can still find parts .Can't see why anyone would have bought one new , tobacco farmer ?,truck farmer ? Could not have been that much cheaper than a WC. Nice tractor and thanks for posting pics ------------- You only need to know 3 things to be a plumber;Crap rolls down hill,Hot is on the left and Don't bite your fingernails 1964 D-17 SIV 3 Pt.WF,1964 D-15 Ser II 3pt.WF ,1960 D-17 SI NF,1956 WD 45 WF. |
Posted By: TimNearFortWorth
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2017 at 12:09am
| My dad told of my grandfather bringing one home from the dealer behind one of the big Packards they used on the farm. They had two B's and wanted to upgrade for both field and belt work, took it back to the dealer two weeks later as they found it way underpowered and limped along until the new WC showed up. |
Posted By: Gary in Texas
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2017 at 4:53am
The trans and diff DO NOT share the same fluid!! The are not inter connected except with the differential/accessory drive. |
Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2017 at 6:21am
| KD be sure to look at Toms picture link as he has some wonderfull shots of his RC. There has been much speculation as to why AC built them but the story I like is that they were an interim project till they got the C into production. The RC could compete with the Farmall F12 and JD B. I still have one but at one time I owned RC 8. As Tom said there are many parts on that tractor that are RC only parts one being the ring and pinion giving it a slower ground speed to give the 125 cu in engine a chance and as a result they are to slow for tractor rides on the highway. |
Posted By: TomMN
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2017 at 8:39am
| My comment that the transmission and rear end share fluid is qualified with "since there is no seal between them", gear oil is free to pass from whichever one has a higher level. As I said they need to be filled and drained separately. The manual calls for the same gear oil in both as well. |
Posted By: KD8NGV
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2017 at 9:51am
I bought the tractor from Wellert's A.C. Parts 8922 Matty Road, West Salem, Ohio 44287 welac@sssnet.com 330-262-6991 Kim Wellert |
Posted By: Acdiesel
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2017 at 11:03am
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I LIVE ABOUT 30 MINUTES FROM WELLERT'S, THERE GOOD GUYS TO WORK WITH. DAN ------------- D19 Diesel,D17 Diesel SER.3 2-D14, 2-D15 SER.II WF/NF D15 SER.2 DIESEL D12 SER.I, D10 Ser.II 2-720'S D21 Ser. II Gmc,caterpillar I'm a pharmacist (farm assist) with a PHD (post hole digger) |
Posted By: KD8NGV
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2017 at 11:12am
Tom, I went through your pictures and wow! That was a good build log. I hope to do the same here. I have never tore that deep into a tractor before. As I go through this endeavor can I shoot you questions? For example as I am draining the oil (hahaha) from the tranny and differential, is there any other points in which to drain? Should I crack open the middle plate and see if the oil came out of there? Thanks, Kevin |
Posted By: TomMN
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2017 at 12:33pm
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Yes, feel free to ask. I doubt I will know all the answers, the web page might make people think I know what I am doing but I am a hobbyist and this isn't my profession by any stretch of the imagination. I will share any information I can though. My email address is located at the bottom of the main web site http://allis01.com Unless there is a very seriously leaking seal there shouldn't be any oil coming out from the clutch housing access panel. :-) |
Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2017 at 3:38pm
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Kevin, Looks to be a good tractor. Runs drives, has good rubber! Nice find. Have fun getting to know her. What are your plans beyond changing the fluids? ( That is usually my first project unless they look really good and full). Thanks for sharing the photos! Regards, Chris ------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Posted By: KD8NGV
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2017 at 7:33pm
Survey is in and it is... American Bosch Corp MJH 4C302 I tried to embed the picture, no go. I tried to upload, too big. Ugh... I will figure this out yet! Thanks, Kevin |
Posted By: KD8NGV
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2017 at 7:36pm
I worked with John and he was a very nice kid. I can say that, it is my birthday today and I am another year older.  |
Posted By: KD8NGV
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2017 at 7:41pm
Is there a drain for differential/accessory drive? Or should I open it up and look? This part...  |
Posted By: KD8NGV
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2017 at 7:50pm
Chris, Thank you for the compliment! I am very happy with my new find. I am looking forward to very much! My plans are being thought through at the moment. I have never done a full top-down, inside to out restoration. For whatever reason this tractor seems to call out to me to restore her to the original state. I go back and forth because I know a restoration takes time (which I have a lot of), money (which I do not have a lot of), and resources (tools, machinists, etc.). I think I would have a lot of fun doing it but it is very uncharted territory for me. If I do not restore or if I do, I will plan on taking her to parades, shows, tractor drives (my therapy), and some light work around the homestead. I like to use my tractors and not let them sit, which here lately has been the case. I am open to any words of advice! Kevin |
Posted By: KD8NGV
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2017 at 8:14pm
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Today's update: January 17, 2017 I went out and checked on the draining of the transmission oil and the differential. From what I can tell the transmission is drained out. The differential still has a lot of sludge inside. I hope to post the pictures of what I was faced with. I started with the transmission oil draining first (yesterday). When I opened it up, which thankfully the plug came out ok, it had some water come out and then nice goopy sludge oil. It came out very slow, like it almost was like molasses. Provided it was about 40* in the shop, it still moved very slow. I put a bucket under it and went to the rear. The rear differential had the filler plug painted shut. It looked like it had never been opened. Perhaps in the fifties?? I was determined to take out the plug and reached for my lovely dental pick.* I used that to chip away at the paint and eventually got it all off around the plug. Add some PB Blaster and a few hits of a dead blow and she turned open. I looked inside and saw gears, check, sludge, check, and some semblance of oil in there. Well it needed to be drained. Went underneath looking for a plug and found it rear of the two halves and on the driver side. It is a plug with the square inset drive. Add some PB and the dental pick and a ratchet extension and wah-lah the plug came out. BUT NOTHING ELSE DID. What the devil? I looked up and in the hole and it was like someone put a rubber plug in. I stuck my pick in there and as suspected, it was hardened sludge. I poked a few times and out came some water (not as much as the transmission) and then globs of sludge oil. It was very slow. After seeing that it needed help, I stick the pick in the hole and wallowed it around. It seemed to bring the globs out better. I let it sit overnight and came back today and here we are. I need to figure out how to get the rest of the sludge out. I am thinking about plugging both the transmission and differential up and filling up them both with kerosene. Then drain and repeat until clean. I really need to invest in a bore scope! So in the mean time I also went looking and found that my engine is most likely not from an RC, which is a bummer. It is marked as CE 44372 G. I think this is supposed to be for a C not an RC. It has the generator bossed in the casting and there are a few bolt holes not being used. I will post photos of these. I also notice that the headlights, electrical box and started rod are all MIA so I have to add that to the list. Whats next?? I hope to flush the sludge out with kerosene, or what you guys recommend. I hope to drain the final drives. I hope to drain the antifreeze. Thanks for following, Kevin |
Posted By: KD8NGV
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2017 at 8:22pm
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Here is my online album of pictures. As I add more, this will show them. Until someone can show my how to use embed code I am going to have to use links for my pictures as I am out of space on here to upload. https://1drv.ms/a/s!Auo4c4_wWK4Mi6Z9n67Zk1ibyiEl4Q" rel="nofollow - https://1drv.ms/a/s!Auo4c4_wWK4Mi6Z9n67Zk1ibyiEl4Q |
Posted By: TomMN
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2017 at 6:54am
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I have used kerosene to clean out the old nasty sludge on things I don't plan to tear down soon. Having it warm would help with that too. |
Posted By: KD8NGV
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2017 at 8:10am
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I just got off the phone with my HVAC guy and he has me scheduled in the next two weeks to install my reznor heater in the shop. I hope that will help keep me a bit warmer! Thanks Tom |
Posted By: stu(ON)
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2017 at 2:43pm
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Sounds like you may not have a manual for that mag. Fairbanks-Morse and WICO were the OE used by Allis-Chalmers. Here is a reference for your American Bosch replacement: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel/BoschUSA/MagData6.htm" rel="nofollow - http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel/BoschUSA/MagData6.htm |
Posted By: WC7610
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2017 at 11:14pm
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Looks like you have a nice tractor to start with and a fairly "easy" restoration. Good luck! My Dad and I restored his a few years ago- several "special" parts to the RC. You've found a good group of people to help you as they did me Before and after:   ------------- Thanks Most Bad Government has grown out of Too Much Government- Thomas Jefferson |
Posted By: Tom Elder
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2017 at 6:24am
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That is really nice,like a b with super duty drive train.And easier to get in the seat.
------------- 2 1949bs,one with belly mower one with side sickle bar |
Posted By: KD8NGV
Date Posted: 20 Jan 2017 at 3:59pm
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I will be replying to the thread hopefully later tonight, but I wanted to let you know that the machine shop said my generator needs new field coils, cutout, and bearings. I hope to have it by the end of next week! Thanks, Kevin
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Posted By: macvette
Date Posted: 20 Jan 2017 at 5:43pm
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Our 39 did not have an electrical system, other than the mag, of course. No lights, etc. Dad had a generator and starter added when it became more difficult for him to crank it on his own. It was very well used when we got it. Lots of seal leaks, but we managed it for quite a few years that way, before we had to have it overhauled. Thru it all, other mechanical problems were rare. It was the only tractor we could afford on our 40 acre farm, so the RC did it all. Pulled a 2 bottom plow in clay soil without problem. It was a real upgrade to us when Dad bought it. I was about 4 years old at the time. Dad told me to remember this day = the tractor was delivered on a flatbed, and a stock truck came and picked up our 2 horses = King and Prince. (found out much later they went to the fox farm) By the way, I am 71 years old - so this happened quite a few years ago! LOL!
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Posted By: Mikez
Date Posted: 20 Jan 2017 at 6:08pm
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Looks like you bought it from a big famly of orange. Good luck and enjoy your restoration |
Posted By: KD8NGV
Date Posted: 23 Jan 2017 at 7:50pm
Hey! Thank you so much!!! That is very kind of you for supplying me with that information. I will be adding that to the books.
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Posted By: KD8NGV
Date Posted: 23 Jan 2017 at 7:56pm
Wow! That is what I can say about your restoration. I hope mine can be half of what your end product is. How long did it take you to finish that project? I have pretty much decided to restore mine. Trying to figure out how much time the truck has to spend outside. :) Thanks, Kevin
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Posted By: KD8NGV
Date Posted: 23 Jan 2017 at 8:02pm
Fantastic to hear a story of using the RC. I was in the shop with mine last night and was talking to the RC asking her about her story. I wish I knew more about her. If anyone knows any info on RC3001 Let me know! Do you have any pictures of your RC? Do you still have it? Thanks, Kevin
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Posted By: KD8NGV
Date Posted: 23 Jan 2017 at 8:50pm
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Progress update: January 23, 2017 Yesterday my father and I went out to work on Rachel, my 39 RC. I drained the antifreeze from the block and radiator and received a beautiful chocolate milk color at the very end, which I expected. Though for the most part, it was a lovely shade of green. I noticed an ever-enlarging puddle of amber oil on my shop floor. Add that to the list of things to investigate. As I sat there waiting for the antifreeze to drain, I came to the realization that I would like to fully restore her. Where to begin? I have never done a full restoration on a tractor. I suppose that this would be a good start. I was going to restore a WD as my first, but the RC was calling my name. Here goes, I guess.
Where to start? I looked back and thought, why not from the back to the front? So, I figured I can start by looking at the final drives and see what condition they were in. I had just put kerosene in the transmission and differential so that needed to wait a few more days until I would drain them. I jacked up the rear end and placed the jack stand under the cast arm. Then with much surprise I took the lug nuts off with ease. They must have been off recently. This tractor did have practically new rims on the rear. (A good selling point for me) As I was taking another lug nut off, noting which stud it came from, I heard a dripping sound in front of me. I looked over and saw that coming from the weep hole on the right side, I was taking the left wheel off, was coming a steady drip of kerosene. This seemed odd as I thought there was a seal between the differential and the final drive. I added this as good cause to remove the other side as well. At any rate, I went about the tire I had in hand. It came off as easy as can be expected. At this point my dad came over and we took the fender off. I think it may need to be replaced. It was patched a lot and I am unsure of the remedy that can be had. I must talk to my body man. I am open to your thoughts as well. We then proceeded to remove the final drive cover. We did not remove the seal cover as I did not know if the nuts were fastened to bolts or studs. Once I opened the cover, I saw that it was studs. For anyone tearing one apart, note that you can take the seal cover off, and probably should. The final moment had come. We had cracked open the seal of the final drive cover and not much came out but a slow drip of old thick black oil. We had the cover off before the first drip hit the floor. It was messy thick goop. Thankfully the bull and pinion gears were both thoroughly covered. We inspected the gears and they were in GREAT shape. No pitting, chipping, wear, or tear. I was very happy about this!!! I grabbed the hub and it had a bit of in and out play but no side to side. I think this is good (correct me if I am wrong). I also did the same with the pinion gear. Good. I opened the brake cover and was very happy in that cavity. Everything seemed to be in order with at least 3/16 of an inch of pads on the band. With a smile on my face, I went to the other side. We did the same as the left, and now the tractor was immobile: both rear tires placed in the front, where there was room for them. The front set were probably saying something like: “Hey, Aren’t you guys supposed to be behind me?” I noticed on the final drive cover that a patch had been made on the top of it about 3 inches long and 2 inches wide. When we opened her up I saw not so good things: 1. The bull gear teeth were tore up 2. The pinon teeth were tore up too 3. The bearing could be seen for the pinion gear shaft 4. The above was very loose 5. I think there was about 3/8” to ½” of side to side play in the pinion gear 6. The pinion gear stuck out much farther than it should 7. I found that there were two lock washers in the sludge along with a fair amount of metal pieces I am glad I opened up the final drives. I have attached the photos to the link to my album. Take a gander. Here is what I know. 1. I need a new pinion gear/shaft 2. I need a new final drive (I think, I am open to the thoughts of you after you see the pictures) 3. I need to figure out how to disassemble the rear end 4. I think I need to get another left side final drive cover If you have experience or tips on this, please let me know. I am excited to share this journey with you. I love hearing from you!
Thanks,
Kevin |