Cracked block on a 180
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=133880
Printed Date: 15 Jun 2025 at 10:15am
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Topic: Cracked block on a 180
Posted By: Tom AC180
Subject: Cracked block on a 180
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2017 at 5:00pm
|
Hello, I have a 180 diesel that has cracks in the block between each piston. I am looking for a replacement block, and found someone selling one from an ac 200. Does anyone know if the block from the 200 engine will fit the head from my 180, and match up with my transmission? I believe they are both 301 cu inch, and have almost identical specs according to tractor data, except the engine rpm, and oil/coolant capacity. I am also considering trying to fix the cracks with a bottle of boiler repair in the radiator. Does anyone have any experience with that? Thanks |
Replies:
Posted By: Larry in NC
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2017 at 6:44pm
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I don't have any experience with the 301 engines, but the agcopartsbooks.com shows the same part number for the blocks on both the 180 and 200. #74006957 for serial number less than 49-13500 and #74008859 for serial number 49-13500 and up. Those two part numbers are also shown and interchangeable. |
Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2017 at 6:59pm
| When you say cracks, is it visual from the top looking down on your block with the head off ? |
Posted By: Ed (Ont)
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2017 at 7:01pm
| For a temp repair try a product called irontite. Some automotive places may have it or truck shops often carry it as well. Works amazingly well. I had head gasket leaking in an 855 cummins - 2 gal a day leak. Put irontite in it and ran it 6 months more with no leaks at all. Then in winter did a proper repair. |
Posted By: cottonpatch
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2017 at 8:31pm
Belzona 1111 supermetal is a better product than irontite. CAT approved solution that is considered a permanent repair its that good. ------------- '52 CA, '61 D10 II, ‘61 D15, '66 D15II, '63 D17D III, ‘69 170, '73 185 Crop Hustler, '79 185, '79 7000, '77 7040 |
Ed (Ont) wrote:Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2017 at 8:57pm
| If block is cracked between sleeves at BOTTOM, replace block. If it is cracked between sleeves at TOP, don't worry about it, it is ok. MACK |
Posted By: Alex09(WI)
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2017 at 8:58pm
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I was told that the 200 has a crankshaft driven oil pump and the earlier 190 180 have a camshaft driven oil pump. I don't know personally, but if thats tha case, you would need more that just the 200 block for your 180.
------------- www.awtractor.com A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287 KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2017 at 10:42pm
I'm thinking the block was machined for the cam drive pump and the drive gear was still on the cams.If so it wouldn't matter. |
Posted By: Fred in Pa
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2017 at 8:05am
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Like Mack said ,if in the top and just showing small cracks ,u would be OK . But I still check block deck and counter bores .Then u get the sleeves at height u need . ------------- He who dies with the most toys is, nonetheless ,still dead. If all else fails ,Read all that is PRINTED. |
Posted By: Tom AC180
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2017 at 1:32pm
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Thanks for all the replies. The cracks are hairline size cracks at the top of the block in the thin part between the sleeves. I don't know if they go all the way to the bottom. I'll have to take off the oil pan and look from the bottom. I was told by the previous owner that he was getting coolant in the oil so he drained all the coolant out and stopped using the tractor. |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2017 at 1:42pm
| you won't be able to see cracks at bottom with sleeves installed but the cracks you describe have no way of traveling to bottom because there is no metal between sleeves down in the block.The top cracks don't have a way of putting water in oil typically. More likley you have sleeve o-ring issues.Would have been nice if you would've pressurised cooling system with pan removed to see where coolant came from. |
Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2017 at 8:14pm
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a word of caution= there are big differences in the 200's 2900 and the 180's 2800 as to DETAILS. Find someone who KNOWS or you will wish you had...$$$$$$$$$$
------------- When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money.. |
Posted By: WD45Diesel57
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2017 at 7:28am
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I have a good block id let go if you want to make the hike into Ontario! Its out of a later 185 but should be the same, the motor is stuck but the block is good id like $250 CAD or $190 USD is roughly what it works out to. ------------- 1-B's, 2-C, 2-CA's,2-WF, 1-WC,1-G, 3-WD's, 2-WD45, 1-RC, 1-D17 Diesel, 1-D14, 2-D15,1-D17 row crop,1-D19 gas and All Crop 40,60,66,72,90 and 100 |
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2017 at 12:28pm
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Where in NY? |
Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2017 at 12:42pm
| Like mack said the crack at the top isn't a problem. I agree that the orings on the sleeves are more likely the issue. A friend of mine just had to replace the orings on the sleeved of a 180 that had been well maintained all its life I think it is just normal with the age that the orings fail. |
Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2017 at 4:34pm
| That's a good deal on the block. |