Body work
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=133455
Printed Date: 08 Jun 2025 at 6:26pm
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Topic: Body work
Posted By: Ted in NE-OH
Subject: Body work
Date Posted: 05 Jan 2017 at 9:08pm
I am working on some rusty fenders for to get rid of the rusty pits in my IB fenders. I have power wire brushed them and used electrolysis. If I sand them down to get rid of the pits there won't be much fender left. I was thinking of using POR rust converter and then bondo or glazing to fill the pits. What do you think about that approach.
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CA, WD, C, 3 Bs, 2 Gs, WC, I-400, 914
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Replies:
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 05 Jan 2017 at 10:04pm
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that can work......... normally you grind down the rust to get bare metal ( or sand blast), then put the bondo on / in the holes and sand smooth.. Don't need to rust converter..
I have also cleaned the metal good with wire brush ( left some rust), then primered with red oxide primer.... then put the bondo over the primer and fill the holes. .... then finish primer.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2017 at 7:46am
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Mine had several rust holes I ground them out stitched them closed with the wire feed and ground to shape. worked out very well 15 years later you still cant tell where they were fixed. These old fenders are heavy enough that there fairly easy to weld without warping.
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Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2017 at 8:05am
Ted,
I can almost smell the grinding from here!:) ( your about 25 miles from me)
I cleaned my WD fenders as you have mentioned then skim coated with filler and or glaze which is easier to apply and sand too. But if you want to try something else there are high fill primers out there that will fill those pits without any filler. Now I have not tried it yet. But talked to a professional painter that said the primer he uses would fill a small hail damage dent in a hood with about three direct passes or shots on that dent. Sounds pretty impressive to me. Its just a thought. If I every do any more body work I may try that high fill primer too.
Regards,
Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2017 at 8:06am
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POR 15 is one choice that will seal it away from more rust. It they are that deep you will want to seal the same way on the back side to keep it from rusting thru the back. I would use bondo and add a small amount of fiberglass resin to the bondo when mixing. Just enough to make it slightly less stiff. It will take a little longer to get hard which gives you more time to smooth it out with the applicator. It will make it a little harder to sand but will be smoother after sanding. It will also bond tighter to the metal. Don't take my word for it! mix a little dab and try it on a scrap piece of metal and see for yourself.
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Posted By: Bull
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2017 at 12:45pm
I have found the key to bondo is to over apply, use an open rasp (cheese grater) to even out before it totally hardens, get close to right with 60 grit on orbital sander then use straight line sander progressing from 80 to 800 grit. Do not sand metal with the orbital as it will leave fisheye marks.
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WD45 Diesel, RC,CA,IB, B, G, 616, Early B-10, D-10, Terra Tiger, 95G spreader, SC blade
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Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2017 at 11:10pm
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You can try a product called Alumilead ( not spelled right but you get the idea) It is a heavy duty filler that has a lot of aluminum in it . Really works nice but you have to get on the high spots quickly.
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Posted By: timr
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2017 at 10:31am
Ok first thing you are going to want to do is get a real filler. Bondo is absolute junk and isn't worth your time. I'm currently using evercoat edge at my shop. They make 2 different fillers. One is $22 a gallon and I use it for filling deep areas because it builds but doesn't finish out as nice as an expensive filler but it dries quicker and doesn't eat up sandpaper like bondo. The other is 35 a gallon and sands and finishes out nice. We also usually use a fiberglass filler first before going to plastic on rust repairs.
I like pors rust converter because it doesn't have to sit for a day like other brands. We've been using it for years with good results.
I use norton orange stripping wheels on a die grinder for cleaning out rust. They last quite awhile and are flexible so they get into tighter spots than the black or purple ones. They also don't fly apart as easy.
Another option you have is using spray polly. If you don't have alot of major lows to fill you can spray a couple coats of that then block it down. Or you can prime then sand and reprime. I use Nason 2k primer which is around 100 a sprayable gallon and performs as well as the expensive dupont/axalta primers.
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