Farm Equipment - 7045 A/C Repair

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7045 A/C Repair

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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=133150
Printed Date: 05 May 2025 at 2:22am
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Topic: 7045 A/C Repair

Posted By: DennisA (IL)
Subject: 7045 A/C Repair
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2016 at 7:39pm

I would like to get the A/C working in the 7045. The dealer quoted $1900.00 which is not going to work in my budget.

It's still set up for R12 and I have been told that I can't just change the fitting and fill with R134a. Is there anyone here that knows their way around this system that could give me some advice?

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Thanks & God Bless

Dennis

Replies:

Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2016 at 8:50pm

I was thinking the R12 oil and 134 didn't get along well.12 used mineral and 134 uses PAG or Ester.I would bet if you can drain/flush compressor and change oil then flush lines you could suck it down and charge it with 134.Have to isolate expansion valve and drier.Can't flush them.New drier anyway.My 8070 has original plumbing everywhere and is using 134 w/adapters installed.Came that way.

think there are drop in replacements for R12 at auto supply you could try

Posted By: Unit3
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2016 at 9:43pm

7045,7080,8050&8070's run 134A. One of the 8070's has a new style compressor. I'll do your 7045 if you will do my 200? I can hear ILGleaner now telling to pull off that cab and find some fenders.LOL

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2-8070FWA PS/8050PS/7080/7045PS/200/D15-II/2-WD45/WD/3-WC/UC/C

Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2016 at 10:48pm

Ester oil gets along with both 12 and 134. It's best to flush out whatever oil is still in the system and then use PAG oil. If it still has the original Frigidaire A6 there is a drain plug to get the oil out of the compressor. I believe there is a retrofit Sanden compressor available which is the way I'd go if the A6 has problems. Use flushing solvent to clean out the system. The best way to dry out the system after you have flushed it is with an air vac. Compressed air is not the best idea because of the moisture. Water and refrigerant mixed creates acid. Once you have it cleaned out install a new drier and evacuate. I would let the vacuum pump run at least 30 minutes, an hour would be better. The rule of thumb for retrofit is 80% of the R12 charge. What I always did for a retrofit was start with 50% and then sneak up on the sweet spot for charge level.

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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford

Posted By: Skyhighballoon(MO)
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2016 at 11:33pm

Brian - I can vouch for the compressed air and moisture in flushing lines. I ran into that when I rebuilt the AC on my 04 Toyota Sienna this summer. Ran the vacuum like 3 hours getting all the moisture out. I was using one of those air powered vacuum pumps. Don't have a monster compressor so I teed two smaller compressors together and they were able to keep up with it and it worked out fine in the end. I wondering about if I'll need to convert my F2 to 134 next summer before I start running it for wheat. It looks to be original R12. I'll put gauges on it to check first what I have. Might just have to buy some expensive R12 cans on eBay if it works and just needs a little. Mike

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1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330
1969 180 gas
1965 D17 S-IV gas
1963 D17 S-III gas
1956 WD45 gas NF PS
1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin
303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers

Posted By: shameless (ne)
Date Posted: 29 Dec 2016 at 4:28am

you'll prolly need new hoses too, it's about time to be replaced. they are cheaper thru A&I than thru Agco, and that's where Agco orders theirs from. (same part numbers as agco too)

Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 29 Dec 2016 at 9:38am

Mike,my F2 takes 2 cans 134 every fall.Sets all year.

Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 29 Dec 2016 at 10:39am

also pull a vacumm and make sure it holds that for a day if it doesnt somthing leaks and it wont stay charged long

Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 29 Dec 2016 at 10:57am

Mike I have a case of R-12 that's just sitting there, call me if you need some.

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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.

Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 29 Dec 2016 at 12:06pm

For some reason, air conditioning is the last thing I am thinking about right now. Lol Darrel

Posted By: randy
Date Posted: 29 Dec 2016 at 5:20pm

As everyone has said, expansion valve, dryier, and flush the system, vacum down. When i did my 7060 my compresson was leaking bad out the front, so i replaced it too and added 60 onces of 134a. It cools better than the 12. Needs about a can or so every spring to keep it cool. Cheaper than replacing all the hoses.

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CA WD WD45 D17 D17 Diesel 7060 8050 8070

Posted By: randy
Date Posted: 29 Dec 2016 at 5:22pm

The $1900 was probably replacing all hoses and compressor.

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CA WD WD45 D17 D17 Diesel 7060 8050 8070

Posted By: DIESEL
Date Posted: 30 Dec 2016 at 2:06am

I bought everything through AP Air Inc. New hoses, expansion valve,drier and sanden pump conversion kit for under $1000. I installed everything and my mechanic charged it. It worked absolutely amazing. http://www.apairinc.com/shopping/productDetails.aspx?i=145983

Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 30 Dec 2016 at 7:34am

For the guys that have to add a little freon each year, you might try a freon stop leak. I've used it several different times and it's worked. I've picked it up at O'Reilly's. I also add a small can of oil with it figuring that some had leaked out.