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190 PTO question

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=132931
Printed Date: 07 Jun 2025 at 8:55pm
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Topic: 190 PTO question
Posted By: westfork
Subject: 190 PTO question
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2016 at 7:06am
How is the pto engaged/disengaged?  Can you go from a forward gear to reverse without disengaging the pto?
Thanks



Replies:
Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2016 at 7:59am
mechanical lever or hydraulic clutch.  either way when you push the foot clutch to change gears, the pto will disengage.

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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20

Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15


Posted By: westfork
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2016 at 8:09am
Thanks


Posted By: Orange Blood
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2016 at 5:55pm
Actually if I may, when you push the foot clutch, and the PTO is still spinning, (say you aren't using an overrun clutch on the PTO) then the trans will still be spinning, and the shifting will be hard at best, more likely grinding.  When using a mower without an overrun on ours (hydraulic PTO) I depress the foot clutch, at the same time I place the PTO lever in "neutral" not "brake" shift gears, then reengage the PTO, and then ease the foot clutch out, and in most cases I only loose about half the RPM of the mower, so clutch wear is lessened, but more importantly, I haven't worn any hard trans parts.

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Still in use:
HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060
Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7


Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2016 at 6:48pm
On my one nineties, if they are warmed up good, is to put the power director in neutral and shift the gears fast. Don't touch the foot clutch. Darrel


Posted By: westfork
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2016 at 9:16am
Thanks to all for the info.
The 190 sounds challenging to use with an old round baler. Baler does not have a kicker. Need to back up to drop the bale.


Posted By: HD6GTOM
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2016 at 9:38am
real similar to my 200 not a bit challenging. Bale gets done tying, slip her into reverse, back up dump bale and go again.


Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2016 at 11:25am
Originally posted by westfork westfork wrote:

Thanks to all for the info.
The 190 sounds challenging to use with an old round baler. Baler does not have a kicker. Need to back up to drop the bale.
My dad custom baled throughout the 1980's with a Gehl 1500 and 190XT with hydraulic PTO. He never complained........ well he did complain about that Gehl baler. It made a real nice bale but was a bearing eater. Also it was no treat to work on. I've mentioned it here before that Dad would say to me as I helped get into tight spots to hold bolts in place, he'd say "if that engineer was here right now he'd be leaving with a hammer sticking out his head." Dad was never much for swearing but I did learn a new word or two working with him on that baler. Never the F word though.


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Wink
I am a Russian Bot


Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2016 at 12:02pm
I have to side with Lonn, here. I absolutely love baling with my one ninety XT. When the bale gets full, put the power director in neutral. Tractor stops moving, PTO continues to turn. When you are done tying and ready to eject the bale, reach down and very quickly shift from your forward gear to reverse. Ease back on the power director lever until you've moved back far enough to eject the bale. Eject the bale. Shift back into your forward gear, and feather the power director back again until you've moved far enough ahead to close the tailgate. Close the tailgate. Pull the power director back and make another bale, and if the going is good throw the power director ahead into high. I've baled thousands of bales that way with my XT. As long as the baler doesn't miss a beat, I don't even touch the foot clutch, except to initially engage the PTO and put the tractor in gear. One advantage I did have was my new holland baler did have somewhat of a kicker so on flat ground, or uphill, I didn't have to back up before kicking the bale out. If I was going down hill, I did have to back up just like I described.
One night I helped a neighbor bale. He was talking up his tractor, because he had the forward / neutral / reverse shuttle, so he didn't have to keep his foot on the clutch pedal while his bale was tying. I said neither do I, but my tractor is 40 years older and 75,000 cheaper. Darrel


Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2016 at 12:12pm
I don't think Dad ever even did that darrel. He just put the PD in N, tied, clutched to shift into reverse and backed up. Turn off PTO, opened the gate, grabbed PTO lever up into gear to roll the bale out, closed the gate and clutch again to shift into 7th gear and away to the next bale. He didn't do the short cuts you're talking about and he still never complained.

Yes a 7000 would be better and not much more money to get.


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-- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... -
Wink
I am a Russian Bot


Posted By: Tenn allis
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2016 at 3:51pm
When I had a baler without a kicker I would as the bale started to tie turn left or right make a 360 turn line backup with the windrow put pd in neutral kick out bale and start again



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