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Have to choke everytime clutch is let out

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Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=132782
Printed Date: 04 Nov 2025 at 9:33pm
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Topic: Have to choke everytime clutch is let out
Posted By: Krazy Karl
Subject: Have to choke everytime clutch is let out
Date Posted: 18 Dec 2016 at 10:02am
Have a d17 that every time go to release the clutch have to choke the tractor to keep it running. This is even when tractor has been running awhile. Is there anything simple to adjust or change to get it to run without chokeing all the time



Replies:
Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 18 Dec 2016 at 10:07am
Does the tractor otherwise have power under a load without the choke?


Posted By: Eldon (WA)
Date Posted: 18 Dec 2016 at 10:14am
I had a 170 gas that did that. Finally figured out the main jet up inside the carb was loose and just floating in there.

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Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 18 Dec 2016 at 10:39am
Humm Could be a variety of things. But I think I would check the fuel system from one end to the other. Tank through carb.
If the carb has a plug on the bottom, I would check for good gas flow through the carb (not running).
If that is good then the problem could be timing and or electrical?
Let us know what you find on the fuel side first.
 Regards,
 Chris


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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.


Posted By: Krazy Karl
Date Posted: 18 Dec 2016 at 1:42pm
Yea it seems good when pushing snow its just when changing direction and releasing clutch. Will have to check fuel flow and carb when little warmer out as today is -15


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 18 Dec 2016 at 1:43pm
Wrong mix somewhere.Don't know if idle circuit can be off enough to cause that.Some small engines can have that from idle circuit.


Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 18 Dec 2016 at 1:48pm
I was thinking the same thing with the mix running too lean I would guess I would almost bet some of the passages in the carb are plugged. I think I would pull the carb and clean it up really good checking the small passages with a wire. Carbs are sort of an art from if you ask me I ended up taking mine to someone local who is an old timer and knows how they cleaned them back in the day.


Posted By: Rick
Date Posted: 18 Dec 2016 at 2:22pm
I've also had them where they had a tad of water in the gas and that makes them run sick! LOL! Could have ice throughout the line or carb. somewhere at that temp..  Rick


Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 18 Dec 2016 at 4:04pm
Lightly loaded, clutch pushed in, it mostly runs on the idle circuit as the governor closes the throttle a lot. Then when the load comes back the governor opens the throttle rapidly. Most carburetors have some sort of acceleration pump to enrich the mixture for that event because the carburetor tends to go lean right when you want it to produce a rapid increase in torque. Could be the acceleration pump not working, could be the idle mix is set way too lean, could be main jet partly plugged, could be all of those at the same time. I'd start by enriching the idle mix, that screw often adjusts air to the mix, so it gets richer by turning the screw in. There is an idle adjustment procedure, requires overriding the governor with the throttle closed, and adjusting the idle jet for maximum engine speed. If the governor has control it will hide the results of any changes in mixture, so just hold the throttle closed, I don't think you have to disconnect the governor rod.

Gerald J.


Posted By: HD6GTOM
Date Posted: 18 Dec 2016 at 6:40pm
Might also want to check for vacume leak at the manifold.


Posted By: Honey B
Date Posted: 18 Dec 2016 at 9:16pm
I have a 48 Plymouth that did the same thing I went through the fuel system but did  the same thing. My Grandpa said to replace the condensor I said no way but he was right again. Might try it.


Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 18 Dec 2016 at 9:32pm
Open the main jet in front bottom of carburetor. Check timing.  MACK


Posted By: wayneIA
Date Posted: 19 Dec 2016 at 3:13am
Like what HD6GTom said, check and make sure your manifold isn't warped.  Not uncommon on the WD, WD-45 and D17's that the manifold will warp and allow a vacuum leak on the intake.  If you have a local machine shop with a large belt sander, they can lay the manifold on it and level the ports again.  Then slap on a fresh set of gaskets and should be ready to roll.  When you push the clutch, the governor will virtually close the butterfly which creates a higher amount of vacuum in the manifold magnifying the leaning of the engine.


Posted By: Butch(OH)
Date Posted: 19 Dec 2016 at 8:48am
Like MACK said before you get any wrenches out adjust the main jet out a quarter turn at a time and see if it goes away. Extremely late ignition timing will cause similar problems and will often be accompanied by occasional belching out intake when a load is applied.


Posted By: Kevin in WA
Date Posted: 19 Dec 2016 at 10:24am
Also make sure the thermostat is good so the engine warms up properly.


Posted By: Eldon (WA)
Date Posted: 19 Dec 2016 at 10:57am
Originally posted by MACK MACK wrote:

Open the main jet in front bottom of carburetor. Check timing.  MACK



That is what I was doing with my 170 for 3 years. I would adjust it (I think it was like 1 1/2 turns out) and it would do fairly well for awhile then go out of adjustment. I finally took the time to remove it, stuck a small screwdriver in the hole and found the jet seat inside there was loose. Tightened it up and it ran like a new tractor....

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ALLIS EXPRESS!
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Posted By: Brian G. NY
Date Posted: 19 Dec 2016 at 4:44pm
I'm in agreement with Mack also.
I find it necessary to open the main jet about a quarter turn more in winter than summer.
If I'm working it real hard in the winter and the temp gets well up into the green I sometimes set the main jet back.


Posted By: pumpkinman
Date Posted: 19 Dec 2016 at 5:24pm
could be carberator iceing if its real cold look for frost on the intake manafold at the carb base use your propane torch to warm up the intake also 1 or 2 cans of drygas in the fuel tank  


Posted By: TedBuiskerN.IL.
Date Posted: 19 Dec 2016 at 5:33pm
I follow Mack's advice, but I go half a turn farther open in the winter.  The colder air is denser, so more O2 molecules per volume of air, so fuel needs to be adjusted to compensate.

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Most problems can be solved with the proper application of high explosives.


Posted By: Chalmersbob
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2016 at 2:40am
no acceleration pump in these carbs. Bob

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4 B's, 1 C's,3 CA's, 2 G's WD, D14, D15, B-1, B10, B12, 712S,


Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2016 at 9:56am
The for the transition between the idle and main jets, the fuel level in the float bowl needs to be higher so it runs richer in that transition.

Gerald J.


Posted By: Krazy Karl
Date Posted: 26 Dec 2016 at 7:46am
Was able to go and look at it last week. End up adjusting the load screw some. And that seemed to help it out. Thanks for the help. This spring/summer got to get her tuned up. I know that need to do manifold gaskets as exhaust has a leak. And what your opinions on eletronic ignition.


Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 26 Dec 2016 at 7:50am
If you go electric ignition switch it to negative ground.   I have one tractor with a positive ground kit that works and one that has eaten several positive ground kits. The negative ground kit is more robust.


Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 26 Dec 2016 at 8:16am
re: electronic ignition...

There's been a lot of comments about 'substandard' points so maybe you should go to EI, 12V neg ground. I am 'disappointed' that the EI units sold are not 'bullet proof'. Technically possible,only $2 in parts does that, but then they'd only sell you one....

While you upgrade put an alternator on it. I like the CS-130 series,small diameter so it looks better than the old clunky ones..

And naturally you'll install a 100% new wiring kit...for reliable,consistant, trouble free tractoring.....

Jay



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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water



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