Problems cropping up with my B
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=132768
Printed Date: 07 Jun 2025 at 10:34am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Problems cropping up with my B
Posted By: Ranse
Subject: Problems cropping up with my B
Date Posted: 17 Dec 2016 at 8:20pm
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I got this B Allis back in October. It looked good because the guy had painted it, and it seemed to run very well too. I played around with it until it ran out of fuel. I put five gallons of gas in it and it started cutting out badly shortly afterwards. The settling bowl was full of rust. I cleaned it out but it didn't help, so I drained the gas and removed the tank and cleaned it best I could. It was very rusty inside, so I broke down and put some of that coating in it. It's running much better now but still seems to cut out a little when idling. It seems to smooth out when it's pulling. I didn't clean the carburetor. That's about the only other thing I can think to do to get it to run smooth and steady. Also, I didn't check the coolant when I bought it. I tried to check it a couple of weeks ago, but I couldn't because the level was so low the tester wouldn't reach it. I topped it off and thought I'd check it later after it run a while. Well I did that today and the coolant looks like muddy water. It obviously needs a good flushing, but I'm afraid to this with winter here. I don't want to risk leaving water in the block and busting the engine. What's the best way to avoid this? The last thing is after running it the other day I noticed a new oil leak. There was a wide path of oil on the block from the oil filter base to the oil pan. I couldn't figure why it suddenly started leaking here. I guess there is a gasket between the base and block, but it hasn't leaked until now. The color of the oil was a concern as well, a milky white. I just wonder if the coolant I put in it the other day got in the oil? Maybe that's why the oil filter base gasket suddenly failed. I just like to hear a few opinions. Thanks a lot Ranse. |
Replies:
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 17 Dec 2016 at 8:52pm
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If the sediment bowl had a good screen your carburetor might be alright. If you didn't remove the sediment bowls shut off and clean it when you cleaned the tank it might still be partly restricted. Key words in this is (might) You might want to remove the valve cover and look for pin holes in the core plugs under the rocker arms before tearing into anything else. This is a common cause of water and oil mixing in these engines. The filter base gasket is one that is a common leak problem. It needs a thick cork gasket and you do not dare tighten enough to distort the base.
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Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 17 Dec 2016 at 11:05pm
| Yep. And don't run it no mo until you do these things. If you continue to have a little skip in it, check the timing. I might be a hair fast. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 18 Dec 2016 at 5:28pm
Flushing the coolant system will NOT cause anymore harm in winter than it does in the summer. KNOW how much coolant goes in and add the antifreeze FIRST, then add distilled water and you will have a safe mix. As for milky white oil, do as advised above. Remove the rocker arm cover and replace the 2 dollar core plugs in the top of the head. Then drain the oil and flush it with a gallon of diesel. DON"T run it or turn it over with diesel in it! I wouldn't run it at ALL with milky oil. Hopefully the core plugs are leaking and not an oring on the sleeve. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Ranse wrote:Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 18 Dec 2016 at 6:02pm
 ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: Ranse
Date Posted: 19 Dec 2016 at 9:59pm
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I generally run pure water through the system and drain it several times until it runs clear to try to get as much rust and crud out as I can. Then I put the water and coolant in it. We did this to a Oliver combine we had once. The coolant checked good in the radiator, but there must have been enough water still in the block to weaken it. The block busted, and I've been leery every since. I've never used distilled water before. Maybe that's been my problem all a long. I believe I've seen that picture before Steve. I think you posted it for someone else. It's very helpful, thank you. How do you remove the core plugs? |
Posted By: corbinstein
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2016 at 6:40am
| got a picture of the tractor? |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2016 at 8:06am
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On a problem leak at the oil filter base I've taken the oil filter base off and checked for a warped mount surface with a good straight edge. A quality file can be used as a straight edge. Carefully clamp base in vise and carefully and accurately file the mount surface flat again. Clean it well and a new good cork gasket and it should be good to go. ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: Ranse
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2016 at 9:14pm
| Today I removed the valve cover and inspected the core plugs. I believe they were good, I couldn't see any pinholes anyway. I drained the oil and it was a bit milky looking and had a little white foam in it. I couldn't tell if it had coolant in it or not. I drained the coolant as well, it's so brown looking you couldn't tell if it was in the oil or not. I'm going to flush to system and put fresh antifreeze in it. I got a cheap brand of oil I'm going to put in it and I'm going to run it a few days and change it again. Maybe then I can tell if the antifreeze is in the oil. As for the oil filter base, I didn't remove it because I don't have a new gasket for it. It didn't leak the last time I ran the tractor, just that one time. If it continues to leak I'll fix it later. I'm not 100% sure if coolant was in the oil or not, I only suspect it was. Usually I can see some green color in the oil, but the coolant was so dirty in this case I couldn't. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2016 at 9:22pm
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lots of humidity and not warming up the motor will cause the oil to get a little milky looking and "foam" as you said on the valve cover bottom and around the filler neck... May be normal and not coolant leak. I think you have a good plan, drain the coolant and oil, fill both properly and restart and test. Monitor after a few minutes, then an hour later. Next day, check oil level prior to startup.............. apparently you don't need new freeze plugs, but to get the old out, you smack on one side with a hammer/ punch and it will pop or twist in the bore and pull out with pliars, etc. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2016 at 3:17pm
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A small leak in one of those core plugs might be REAL hard to see if there isn't fluid under pressure in the radiator. If you don't know the history of the engine, it's a good bet they have started rusting from the bottom side and they are REAL cheap to replace. As for the filter base, that is a common place for an oil leak. The cast body can easily be warped from over torquing and most likely needs to be filed flat. There was a post a few years ago of a good fix for them, by filling the hollowed out back side with epoxy to make more contact area for sealing. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: D17JIM2
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2016 at 3:52pm
| Replace the plugs while you are there its cheap and as CTucker said you may not see the holes. But if the tractor has sat a lot in variable weather, condensation can make oil milky when its used again. Good luck and I'll bet that if you do what these guys say you will be ok and have a good little tractor. |
Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2016 at 4:06pm
| To get the base flat I glue some emery paper to my bench which is flat or any other flat surface and keeping a even pressure on what I'm sanding I usually get a better finish than I when use a file. |
Posted By: Ranse
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2016 at 3:05am
| Condensation could very well be the problem. The metal building I keep the B and D10 in gets very damp in the winter. One day both tractors were soaking wet in condensation. I started them both and let them run until the engines dried off. I really don't think the core plugs are leaking. I filled them with diesel and let it set over night, they were still full this morning. Where do you guys get the core plugs? I looked briefly on DJ's tractor parts and didn't find any. I flushed the radiator time after time today. It was very dirty but looked like just rust. I believe I could have got rust out of it all day, it's cleaner than it was and it has fresh antifreeze in it anyway. I still think I have a carburetor issue, or perhaps it's a timing problem as you all suggested. It still cutting out when idling. It seems to smooth out when you go up a hill when the governors kick in. Today it died on the way back to the shed. I thought it was out of gas. I only had a half gallon to put in it. Afterwards I would start it and it would die immediately after starting. It acted like it was still out of fuel. I finally pulled the choke out and it kept running and I was able to get it back. It was weird, it seemed to run pretty good with the choke out. This shouldn't be, my next move is remove the card and clean it. If that don't work I'll have to get someone to check the timing because I don't have any experience in that. Thanks for every ones help Ranse. |
Posted By: Bob D. (La)
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2016 at 3:17am
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Ranse, If it runs better with the choke you most probably have fuel delivery problem. I would pull the sediment bowl from the tank since it's nearly out of fuel. Bet you will find the culprit when you look at the sediment bowl. Then pull and check fuel line to make sure it isn't partially plugged. Do these two steps before pulling the carb. Hope this helps. ------------- When you find yourself in a hole,PUT DOWN THE SHOVEL!!! |
Posted By: Ranse
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2016 at 5:07pm
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Today I took the sediment bowl assembly apart. It was new so I didn't think I'd find much wrong and it was clean and clear. The fuel line also seemed clear, I could easily blow thru it. I removed the carburetor. I haven't disassembled it yet, but from looking inside, it looks pretty nasty. I ran to town and got a kit for it, so I'm going to rebuild it. It might not fix my stutter but it can't hurt. |