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tractor cab kit.. 7040

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=131507
Printed Date: 05 May 2025 at 2:28am
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Topic: tractor cab kit.. 7040
Posted By: nick121
Subject: tractor cab kit.. 7040
Date Posted: 18 Nov 2016 at 5:36am
Hi, 
I purchased my 7040 this spring cab was pretty rough, I stripped all the insulation that was coming off and painted it. Just wondering if the cab kits are worth it? 
And my other question is about the gears grinding.. When stopped trying to put it into gear it grinds a lot, if I go into first or reverse its not as bad and then go into what ever gear I need... Anyways It seems like its the clutch brake? Anyone else have this problem and is it a hard fix? It is the power director trans. 
I plan on keeping this tractor, it runs good and pulls great. 

Thanks In advance



Replies:
Posted By: ryan(IN)
Date Posted: 18 Nov 2016 at 5:53am
Yes the cab kits are worth it. It's what takes the noise levels down! We put new kits in outlets 7040 and 7060 black belly and I can't believe the difference it made.

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ryan
1984 8070 FWA,1979 7060,1975 7040,1971 190,1960 D-17D,1957 D-14, 196? D-19G, 1975 5040,1971? 160,1994 R62


Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 18 Nov 2016 at 6:46am
Clutch cable needs adjusted. Just behind motor is a cable that makes a U turn. Loosen clamp and pull cable toward motor until all free travel is out of clutch pedal.   MACK


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 18 Nov 2016 at 7:25am
Clutch pedal has to be clear down for trans brake to work !! One inch from being clear down won't work.


Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 18 Nov 2016 at 7:49am
If the cable is stiff you'll have problems too. Replace it if it is. I replaced the bushings in clutch linkage pivot on my brothers 7030 to solve his grinding gears. They weren't worn much at all, hardly noticeable but after trying to adjust the cable forward for me the new bushings did the trick. My 7050 was always hard to shift. I was able to do it without grinding but with considerable effort. Then the cable snapped and a new cable gave my knee a break and it shifts easily today.


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I am a Russian Bot


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 18 Nov 2016 at 8:09am
You NEED the cab kit!! As already mentioned, it's what makes the ride quiet!! Our L3 is missing a the insulation on the back wall of the cab, and it's pretty loud inside. A buddy has one with all the insulation in it, and you can whisper to one another. Amazing difference! I'll be fixing ours soon. 


Posted By: nick121
Date Posted: 18 Nov 2016 at 7:00pm
Okay, I will look into getting a cab kit. I wear earmuffs now so the kit should help a lot with that.

I will look at the clutch cable. I push the clutch to the floor, and stop all the way. sometimes if i'm plowing or under a heavy load I can stop and shift with no grinding. 

On the road pulling wagons, I just float shift cause i know its not syncronized


Posted By: Kevin in WA
Date Posted: 18 Nov 2016 at 9:48pm
Probably want to replace the cab mounts also if its that noisy.


Posted By: nick121
Date Posted: 26 Nov 2016 at 3:08pm
just wondering if anyone has pictures of a 7000 series with a nice cab?


Posted By: VAfarmboy
Date Posted: 26 Nov 2016 at 10:57pm
This one is probably about as nice as you will find these days, low hours and cab looks to be all original except for the yellow JD seat cover. 

http://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/10800603/allis-chalmers-7045" rel="nofollow - http://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/10800603/allis-chalmers-7045

The cab kit is definitely worth the money.  The AC Accousta cab on these tractors was the quietest cab in the industry back in the day, and slightly quieter than Deere's Sound Gard cab.  


Posted By: LB0442
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2016 at 9:07am
Here are a few pages from a sales brochure.  The speed decal on the right pillar must have been a prototype as the production ones were different.



The decal above the key is different than all the ones I have seen.  Mine are all black and white, no yellow in them.



Posted By: LB0442
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2016 at 9:23am
A couple of months ago I put cab mounts in a black belly 7080.  Made a HUGE difference in noise and vibration.  The right ones were easy but the left inside one was a bear.  You can see they were showing their age.



The issue I had was the cab would not go up far enough to slide the rubber under the channel.  That welded bar was hitting on the return spring for the clutch valve.  I had to remove the bolts for the power director valve assembly and let it raise up with the cab.  Possibly someone here would know of an easier way?  I put 2 mounts on each side in the front and replaced the rear 2.



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