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New trailer toter, brake problems?

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=130950
Printed Date: 27 Apr 2025 at 9:17am
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Topic: New trailer toter, brake problems?
Posted By: truckerfarmer
Subject: New trailer toter, brake problems?
Date Posted: 05 Nov 2016 at 11:27pm
Got myself a new trailer puller. '86 GMC c7000. Goodwrench 366 with low miles. 6 good tires. $1000!
Problem is a couple of the brakes lock up.


Previous owner had already replaced the master cylinder and one rear caliper and hose.
Not sure if the problem is the caliper or bad hose. After brake locks up, I crack the bleeder and it releases easily.   Thinking if that caliper was bad it wouldn't release easily. That leads me to believe that the problem is the hose. I can get calipers from O'Reilly's for $78, so cost isn't bad. But don't want to spend the money if not necessary. Just wondering what your thoughts are on this.

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Looking at the past to see the future.
'53 WD, '53 WD45, WD snap coupler field cultivator, #53 plow,'53 HD5B dozer

Duct tape.... Can't fix stupidity. But will muffle the sound of it!



Replies:
Posted By: dawntreader74
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2016 at 12:57am
have a few of them with the disc brakes there hung up all the time' there a pain in the' back side. if it's not one hung up' it's the other one' but they run good & pull good.


Posted By: shameless (ne)
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2016 at 4:11am
that's a cool looking truck! old wrecker?


Posted By: Calvin Schmidt
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2016 at 5:21am
Had and early Ford F-450 with discs all round do that.  Bad hose

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Nothing is impossible if it is properly financed


Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2016 at 6:04am
Is it just one wheel hanging up? If all is hanging up, the rod going to master cylinder needs shortened.   MACK


Posted By: WD45Diesel57
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2016 at 6:14am
Definitely a bad flex hose I've seen that before!

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1-B's, 2-C, 2-CA's,2-WF, 1-WC,1-G, 3-WD's, 2-WD45, 1-RC, 1-D17 Diesel, 1-D14, 2-D15,1-D17 row crop,1-D19 gas and All Crop 40,60,66,72,90 and 100


Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2016 at 6:20am
10 brakes are kinda important ,so please go over 100% of the system and get them working 100% right !If you don't feel 100% confident in loaning out the truck to someone you love, then get them brakes fixed !!

2) Where's the rest of the truck? LOL. I've never seen a 'short bed' dually before. It is a NEAT ride.

Jay



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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water


Posted By: truckerfarmer
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2016 at 7:04am
Yep, it used to be a wrecker. May have to remove a couple of springs from the rear, because I don't plan on pulling that big of load with it. I will save the springs just in case I ever do need them. Been set up as a trailer puller. Already has electric and vacuum trailer brakes set up. Heavy duty gooseneck plate already installed.
Only a couple brakes lock up, so not the master cylinder. Figure I'll start with replacing hoses first, because they're cheap when doing process of elimination. Hate to spend $80 a caliper if they're not the problem.

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Looking at the past to see the future.
'53 WD, '53 WD45, WD snap coupler field cultivator, #53 plow,'53 HD5B dozer

Duct tape.... Can't fix stupidity. But will muffle the sound of it!


Posted By: Gary Burnett
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2016 at 7:10am
On a truck that old and you're going to replace the hoses anyway I'd surely replace the
calipers too for the price you mentioned


Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2016 at 7:46am
Originally posted by Gary Burnett Gary Burnett wrote:

On a truck that old and you're going to replace the hoses anyway I'd surely replace the
calipers too for the price you mentioned


x2.  I would want all of my brake components in perfect condition when pulling a load of precious orange!


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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080


Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2016 at 9:53am
drums or  disc's ?          drum  probly drum to woren out  i.d.  stuck piston on wheel cyl. and or hardware                disc     caliper not  bleed out good or not floating


Posted By: A&A MN
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2016 at 10:10am
A loose flap in the hose that won't let fluid back or as I had -- rust in the break line. Try to blow through the pipe using the air compressor. I had this happen to a 1957 classic car with only 18000 miles on it.


Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2016 at 6:02pm
my guess would be hoes(s) first...


Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2016 at 6:30pm
I would replace it all just to be safe. They are 30 years old and should have been done 15 years ago.

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1957 WD45 dad's first AC

1968 one-seventy

1956 F40 Ferguson


Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2016 at 7:38pm
You really need to pull all the wheels and inspect the entire brake system. From personnel experience loosing brakes on even an empty heavy truck is scary. I lost brakes on a 6400 driving it home. The parking brake is less than useless for stoping even from slow speed.i didn't trust the truck so was going 30 at the most. I would replace every thing. Worn pads or worn disks will allow the puck to extend to far out of the caliper and it'll stick. Old brake hoses often collapse trapping fluid in the caliper. Worn brake drums or shoes won't self adjust and the shoes stick until you back up to release them. The one brake line along the inside of the left fram rail where it goes through the frame cross member tends to collect dirt and rust through. When your fluid is laying on the ground It's not stoping the truck.


Posted By: TREVMAN
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2016 at 8:03pm
Get it running, get it stopping (I'd pull and replace everything), get it steering (I'd check all components). I have found brakeing and steering in heavy trucks quite useful over the years, have had both FAIL while operating. Just not something you can neglect.At the price you paid, you can afford to  fix it right. And, cool truck, they were very well made. jmho, Trev.


Posted By: shameless (ne)
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2016 at 11:09pm
you should be able to feel every tar strip on the road! lol


Posted By: truckerfarmer
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2016 at 6:30am
Don't worry, I want all the brakes working properly. I used to pull oversized loads. Double trailers, #142,000, 112' long,for 7 yrs so,yeah, I know how important brakes are. I also learned not to depend on brakes, downshifting is you friend.

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Looking at the past to see the future.
'53 WD, '53 WD45, WD snap coupler field cultivator, #53 plow,'53 HD5B dozer

Duct tape.... Can't fix stupidity. But will muffle the sound of it!


Posted By: truckerfarmer
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2016 at 6:38am


Couple of the trucks I used to drive just so you fellas know I understand the importance of brakes. I did the brake jobs on most of the fleet.
Actually I wish my new toy had air brakes. I can do most of them with my eyes closed.



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Looking at the past to see the future.
'53 WD, '53 WD45, WD snap coupler field cultivator, #53 plow,'53 HD5B dozer

Duct tape.... Can't fix stupidity. But will muffle the sound of it!


Posted By: Adam Stratton
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2016 at 8:29am
Will they unlock on their own after you leave it sit for a while? If so, I would agree with Mack and check the rod travel in the master. I've seen that problem several times


Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2016 at 9:43am
For some years I drove a '65 F350 with a 390 under the hood, and 4 barrel carb. 5.13 rear axle and a NP transmission with a 6.3 granny gear. I never did determine a limit to its towing capability other than traction.

On day I took it to my farm just east of Ames and hitched up a sturdy hay rack and headed west and south towards Woodward to buy some 8" wide flange steel beams I wanted for house building. The engine and drive train had so much torque, dragging brakes weren't noticeable. Going west on IA 210 in Madrid on the jogs I heard a loud bang and looked back in the tall mirrors and saw a mushroom cloud blowing out of the left side of the truck from under the flat bed. The next place there was room to get the train off the road I stopped and found the inside sidewall of the inside right dual missing. Since I wasn't putting a load on the truck I figured one rear tire would carry the load adequately. And went on. I didn't have a spare. I thought I had brakes and headed back for the farm crossing the Des Moines River valley after loading about 80 feet of 35 pound per foot wide flange I beams. At the farm I unhitched the hay rack and dropped in on a neighbor. He noticed liquid dripping under the rear axle. I drove it 8 miles home and started digging in. When I pulled the right side wheels and drum I found the springs softened and no brake shoe linings at all, just soot. When I looked for brake shoes I found it was a 2 ton axle, not a 1 ton axle. The hose to the rear axle lining had come loose and kept the brakes from releasing. New springs, shoes, wheel bearings, and shoes plus that hose made it work again. Sometime I replaced the front hoses and found the '65 F350 hoses didn't fit the brake assemblies, it took '64 front hoses. A truck assembled from assorted pieces and the cab had more than a couple bondo spots.

When I bought it, the brakes worked once in a while but not every application. Fortunately the gears got it down to 2 mph in granny gear at idle. A new master cylinder fixed that intermittent brake problem. I put 6 new bias ply tires on it and I think I spent more on tires that I paid for the truck. At the tire shop the help wouldn't touch it because of the retainer ring rims so the boss did them all. I've never seen tire show help work so hard on other projects to avoid mine.

Gerald J.


Posted By: Eric B
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2016 at 3:36pm
Originally posted by truckerfarmer truckerfarmer wrote:

Yep, it used to be a wrecker. May have to remove a couple of springs from the rear, because I don't plan on pulling that big of load with it. I will save the springs just in case I ever do need them. Been set up as a trailer puller. Already has electric and vacuum trailer brakes set up. Heavy duty gooseneck plate already installed.
Only a couple brakes lock up, so not the master cylinder. Figure I'll start with replacing hoses first, because they're cheap when doing process of elimination. Hate to spend $80 a caliper if they're not the problem.

You say only a couple of wheels lock up...on the same axle? I had it happen once that a flake or debris of some kind blocked the tiny return hole in the bottom of the master cylinder. A good flush and cleaning helps that problem...never happened again for me.


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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!


Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2016 at 4:47pm
I can understand the split rim fear. I worked at a Goodyear tire store early on in my career. The commercial tire guys did all of the split rims no matter the size. One time filling one up they had a ring come off and do serious damage to the cage. My best description is think about how loud the commercial fireworks that are only a white flash would be in close proximity. Pretty darn loud...

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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford


Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2016 at 4:50pm
Sounds like a brake hose issue to me. It's also probably got a Hydro Vac system on it too. There's a trick to getting one bled out so don't let it run out of fluid changing hoses.

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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford


Posted By: TREVMAN
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2016 at 6:16pm
Sorry if I over stepped boundries Darwin. Thems is a lot bigger trucks than Ive operated.
Obviously, you know trucks. Its just that Ive seen too many situations that due to a lack of knowledge or neglect, bad things happened. When I was 16 I regularily hauled water with my grampas 1950 1.5 ton Fargo for the farm. My Dad put a 1000 imperial tank on it because that is what he had, way overloaded, 12 miles one way. Truck never really had brakes to begin with, and by the 80's, non existant. A plate on the pillar indicated the flathead had 63hp at 3600 rpm. I think that was very optimistic. 4 speed non synchro. 7.00-20 tires that were rotten. No heat in winter. Lots of heat in summer. Armstrong steering. A very tricky valley to run through, had to hit it just right or you didn't make it. That's where I learned how to drive...Love the trailers on the newer IH.Good luck with your new to you truck, Trev.


Posted By: truckerfarmer
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2016 at 10:21pm
No problem Trevman. Not directed at you personally.

The truck is disc brakes all the way around. 1 on rear and both front were locking up. After I would lock them up, if I cracked the bleeders open they would release. Piston would retract and calipers would slide. Got one on rear working today. $7 piece of brake line cured it. Ordered new ones for front, will be here tomorrow. Lines were so rusty that when I tried to loosen flare nuts, lines twist off. Talked to a mechanic friend today and he said more than likely lines. Truck has 248,000 miles on it, so figure the calipers have been replaced at least once. The wheel that wasn't locking has a newer line, the rest look original.

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Looking at the past to see the future.
'53 WD, '53 WD45, WD snap coupler field cultivator, #53 plow,'53 HD5B dozer

Duct tape.... Can't fix stupidity. But will muffle the sound of it!


Posted By: shameless (ne)
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 1:11am
anyone that learns to drive with iffy or no brakes, will be able to drive anything they are put in!


Posted By: truckerfarmer
Date Posted: 13 Nov 2016 at 10:26pm
Got her home tonight! One new line on the back and both lines on the front. All 3 where plugged.

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Looking at the past to see the future.
'53 WD, '53 WD45, WD snap coupler field cultivator, #53 plow,'53 HD5B dozer

Duct tape.... Can't fix stupidity. But will muffle the sound of it!


Posted By: shameless (ne)
Date Posted: 13 Nov 2016 at 11:08pm
well we want pics of it as you clean it up and modify it!


Posted By: Mikez
Date Posted: 13 Nov 2016 at 11:32pm
Can you still get brake parts. Dad called for I think wheel cylinder and they told him he couldn't get them anymore


Posted By: truckerfarmer
Date Posted: 14 Nov 2016 at 6:40am
I'll try to give updates when I get them done. Won't get to the bodywork till next spring, have to work outside. it will be orange and white and have a couple AC stickers when I get done.
Brake parts are readily available. I got the new front lines from O'Reilly's. Ordered Monday, were here Tuesday morning. Napa has parts also, but more money here. Wheelco Truck and trailer has calipers cheapest, $55 with exchange. Looking online, it looks like you can get any part you might need. Looks like they used the same parts up into the '90s. Often times with trucks, larger components like axles and transmissions are from an independent supplier, so they are kinda generic.


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Looking at the past to see the future.
'53 WD, '53 WD45, WD snap coupler field cultivator, #53 plow,'53 HD5B dozer

Duct tape.... Can't fix stupidity. But will muffle the sound of it!


Posted By: Eric B
Date Posted: 14 Nov 2016 at 9:29am
In terms of parts new and used including after market availability I doubt if there is a better choice of older used truck you could have bought than what you now have Clap. I have had several of them myself.

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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!


Posted By: truckerfarmer
Date Posted: 14 Nov 2016 at 10:23pm
Agreed Eric! That's a big reason I bought it. Also the fact it's a GMC. There are 6 GMCs in our yard. The wife drives the nicest one, her Yukon. Now I can get rid of the one F#@d I own. The parts interchangeability of GM built vehicles is great! And the fact that if it ain't broke don't fix it mentality of GM has kept the availability of parts so much better. Could take out an inline 6, switch the motor mounts, and drop in a big block! Pretty much everything bolts up.

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Looking at the past to see the future.
'53 WD, '53 WD45, WD snap coupler field cultivator, #53 plow,'53 HD5B dozer

Duct tape.... Can't fix stupidity. But will muffle the sound of it!


Posted By: GM Guy
Date Posted: 24 Nov 2016 at 1:33am
or bolt in a center mount turbo 6.5L diesel. :) I know of a guy that swapped one in his C60 dump truck, and the MPG doubled and torque was much better.

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Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine.

If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help.


Posted By: shameless (ne)
Date Posted: 24 Nov 2016 at 1:45am
I agree, have had several GMC's, still drive one....and this one is a keeper for the rest of my days I hope! (Les was privledged to ride in it at Hutch)!



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