help gleaner E in corn
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Topic: help gleaner E in corn
Posted By: Alex09(WI)
Subject: help gleaner E in corn
Date Posted: 04 Nov 2016 at 12:19am
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I am using my Gleaner E combine in corn for the first time in a week and needs help with all the settings. What should the Wind, clearance, sives, etc. settings be? ------------- www.awtractor.com A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287 KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY |
Replies:
Posted By: wayneIA
Date Posted: 04 Nov 2016 at 3:31am
| I always set my chaffer and sieve by eye (if memory serves me right, I think the chaffer is 3/8"-1/2" and the sieve is 1/4"-3/8" for starters), on the air run as much as you can without blowing grain out the back. To set the cylinder, start at about 3/4" and if the cobs aren't coming out in 1 piece generally in the rear, then open the cylinder a little more until you get whole cobs. With the whole cob, unlike what the manual says to quarter the cob, you have the ability to pass the entire cob out over the straw walkers. If you break the cob like the manual says to do, then the cob pieces go through the walkers and add more load to the chaffer to clean. Cylinder speed if I remember right should be about midway on the variable for starters on low speed sprocket. Then speed the cylinder up until you start cracking corn, then slow it down a little to stop cracking. |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 04 Nov 2016 at 7:42am
| Take #1 concave off door, unless you have alot of rocks. #2 and 4 concaves,Cylinder 1/4", air near wide open,cylinder speed 400 500, chaffer 1/2 to 5/8, sieve 1/4 to 3/8. MACK |
Posted By: Dmpaul89
Date Posted: 04 Nov 2016 at 8:35am
| cob size and condition will affect things too. break a ear in half and look at the cob. my corn went through good in my F but did some poor corn with tiny cobs for a guy once and completly clogged the chaffer and sieve with cob pieces. not fun... |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 04 Nov 2016 at 8:51am
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Hahaha...there you have it! Set your cylinder to 3/4" and go up if needed, or, set it at 1/4"! Not picking on anybody, I respect your opinions and experiences....it's just that....I love combine setting threads almost as much as Ford Chevy threads. 
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Posted By: Dmpaul89
Date Posted: 04 Nov 2016 at 9:00am
| i dont think MACK meant 1/4" cylinder thats bean settings |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 04 Nov 2016 at 9:01am
Well, I wouldn't think so either. But, stranger things have been said in Ford Ch, er, combine setting threads! Hahaha |
Dmpaul89 wrote:Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 04 Nov 2016 at 10:11am
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If you don't have walker screens,don't run whole cobs(3/4 clearance) or your walkers will be plugged with cobs.Don't think they made screens for E's so that's why you grind the cob and crank the air....like Mack said. My A2 had narrow woven wire fence tied to walkers with bailing wire when I got it and that worked well.Settings should be in manual.Corn might be called maize. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 04 Nov 2016 at 10:58am
| Walker screens from a K or F should fit an E. |
Posted By: Alex09(WI)
Date Posted: 04 Nov 2016 at 7:07pm
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Thanks for the replys guys. I never thought to look for "maize" in the manual! I have the air wide open. clearance at 1/2". Air 3/4 open. Not sure what I have for cylinder speed. 80% of cobs are coming out the back in one piece. But I have half of the kernels are cracked or broken in the bin. How can I not crack the kernels? ------------- www.awtractor.com A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287 KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY |
Posted By: Skyhighballoon(MO)
Date Posted: 04 Nov 2016 at 8:11pm
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Combine settings for corn are usually in the corn head manuals, not the regular combine manual. Mike
------------- 1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex 1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330 1969 180 gas 1965 D17 S-IV gas 1963 D17 S-III gas 1956 WD45 gas NF PS 1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin 303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 05 Nov 2016 at 7:19am
------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 05 Nov 2016 at 8:53pm
| How many tooth sprocket is on cylinder drive? Did you gauge the cylinder clearance or go by gauges on side? MACK |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2016 at 4:49pm
| corn under 18,2 concave would be all you need. Keep slowing cylinder til you start leaving kernels on cob then go back up a little. |
Posted By: Alex09(WI)
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2016 at 2:16pm
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My corn is 15 to 18 moisturewise. My E was set up for oats before so I
did slow the cylinder down but I don't have any tools to measure the
speed. Will a tractor tach work? MACK- I just go by the side gauges, but the 1/2" bolt is preventing me from opening the clearance more. If I take it out I could open it more. ------------- www.awtractor.com A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287 KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2016 at 2:34pm
| You must change the driven sprocket on the cylinder from oats to corn. Even tho you slowed down the variable belt drive, it will still be waaaaaay too fast for corn. |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2016 at 9:23pm
| YAHHH! oaTs are more like 1100 rpm,you should be 500ish. sprocket should be 10-12? inches |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2016 at 9:40pm
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Put a 35 or 44 tooth sprocket on the cylinder shaft. If cylinder is raised to the bolt, no wonder it is grinding corn. Let it down to get the corn out of cylinder. Yes, 1/4 will work on corn. Have took a lot of Gleaner to field set at 1/4. Yes it will bust the cob, but open the air and blow the cob out the back. Plus that corn bore winters in that cob and you have destroyed his winter home. MACK
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Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2016 at 11:06pm
| Tou-shay! MACK! Never thought about wrecking the winter home.... |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 5:57am
ug.......... winter  ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 6:49am
 I heard that. Somehow...I'm totally not ready for that crap this year. But it's a comin'.
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Posted By: Alex09(WI)
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 6:53pm
I have the 21 tooth sprocket. Which sprocket do I switch out with the cylinder one or do I have to buy a 35T one? Which concaves should I remove? ------------- www.awtractor.com A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287 KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 8:48pm
| One change at a time!!!! slow down the %$#@ cylinder to where it should have been and see what you've got. |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 9:48pm
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I would run #2 & 4. Look in cab and behind cab for the 35 tooth sprocket. If you don't find it, I may have one. MACK |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 10:43pm
| The one on the cylinder is the one you change.You will need a longer chain.If you find one at the farm supply with the right size bore,you can drill the 4 bolt holes. |
Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2016 at 7:52am
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Just amazing! I never ran a combine. Dad always set the old 66's when doing oats, wheat, or grass seeds. We never had a combine to do shelled corn. So I listen and read and understand there is some adjustments, some art and some difference in the corn being shelled. I was watching a big green machine combine corn the other night while I was deer hunting near by. Not sure what kind of machine it was? Wasnt a galvanized machine! Regards, Chris ------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Posted By: Alex09(WI)
Date Posted: 14 Nov 2016 at 7:24pm
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Well I am hopefully going to try my corn head tomorrow. No 35t sprocket. So I will have to run at 1/2 throttle to get the correct cylinder speed. I removed #1 concave, #2 is there, #3 is gone. I didn't realize that the corn header drive belt is different than the grain head, so my belt is too long. I will let you guys know how it goes.
------------- www.awtractor.com A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287 KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 14 Nov 2016 at 8:45pm
| separator won't separate worth crap at half throttle |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 14 Nov 2016 at 9:00pm
| Governor will not work at 1/2 throttle. On the E, governor only works when throttle is all the way open. MACK |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 14 Nov 2016 at 10:18pm
| If you don't have a 35 or 44 tooth sprocket, leave it in the shed or quit complaining about cracked corn. If the combine isn't properly equipped it can't work right. |
Posted By: Alex09(WI)
Date Posted: 15 Nov 2016 at 8:02pm
How does that reply help me? If it is impossible for you to help with the situation I am in now, I demand that you stop posting unhelpful and negative comments. Those comments are not worth the time it takes to read them. ------------- www.awtractor.com A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287 KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY |
Posted By: Alex09(WI)
Date Posted: 15 Nov 2016 at 8:07pm
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Tried a bit today at 1/3 to 1/2 throttle. Still getting cracked kernels in the bin. Corn is at 16% moisture. Tomorrow I will get a 44t sprocket and try that. Hopefully it will work.
------------- www.awtractor.com A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287 KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2016 at 4:55am
Doc can sometimes come across as "testy", but his reply here was actually good advice. If you look at Steve, Mack, and Docs replies just before this as all together, they are good points. I know it can be frustrating, and sometimes easy to feel insulted, but I don't think that was anyone's main intent here. |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2016 at 6:52am
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I agree with Tbone, take the doc's advise. It'll get you further than guessing. Cutting your throttle back like you tried was well.... let's just say inexperienced of you. Take your time, make sure your have the parts installed as people have already told you. You just can't make a combine equipped with small grain sprocket perform as it should in corn. It's just one of those things. It's like trying to defy gravity. BTW are your cylinder bars worn of do they have a square edge yet? Worn bars will make it a grinder too but it doesn't matter until you get that cylinder slowed down with a larger sprocket. I used a 44 tooth back when I combined with my E and it worked real good. ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: Alex09(WI)
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2016 at 10:40pm
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Because of my inexperience, I ask for help on this forum. If I were to take the advice about leaving my combine in the shed: a. I would not gain any experience and b. My corn would not get harvested. Both are contradictory to what I need to accomplish. I got a 42 tooth sprocket and had it bored out to fit the hub today with the holes drilled. I have a lot less cracked corn. Only 10% to 15% cracked now. Corn is at 15% moisture. Lonn- The cylinder bars are round, not square. I'm guessing that is certainly not helping me. It does leave a few kernels on a cob once in a while, but it wil get me through this year. ------------- www.awtractor.com A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287 KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 16 Nov 2016 at 10:48pm
| If you look back to the replies (from experienced people)you got from Nov 5th thru Nov 7th it was pretty clear that a different sprocket was needed. I'm glad you finally gave it a try. |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2016 at 9:11pm
| Lonn,you better define square because they are not technically |
Posted By: Alex09(WI)
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2016 at 9:53pm
Finished my 10 acres this evening, thanks for all the help guys! I couldn't have done it without you 
------------- www.awtractor.com A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287 KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 18 Nov 2016 at 8:02am
I'll look for a picture to post. Dad's old E was just plain worn out and the bars were particularly worn badly. We couldn't get a nice sample no matter what. Then I bought a very nice E. The elevator crew knew right away we had done something different. They actually thought we'd picked up a rotary but I told them, no, just another E but in good shape. The one guy named Norm said our sample was as good as any new combine. That was back in the late 1980's. Here, in this pic, you can compare the leading edge which is rounded and the back edge which is still square (or if you prefer .... sharp). These bars in this shape shoupld probably be reversed so the new edge can do the threshing.  ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: Alex09(WI)
Date Posted: 18 Nov 2016 at 1:38pm
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Yes, mine are worn like that.
------------- www.awtractor.com A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287 KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY |