Farm Equipment - HOT solenoid on K2

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HOT solenoid on K2

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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=130094
Printed Date: 02 Jun 2025 at 6:06pm
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Topic: HOT solenoid on K2

Posted By: Burl
Subject: HOT solenoid on K2
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2016 at 7:47pm

Hoping someone else has had this prob and figured it out.- Sol. in console gets so hot you cant touch. Replaced it with a new one ,same thing. All connections are good. Starts and runs great. All gauges work fine. Dont even have to crank starter ,just turn key to on position or acc. Can switch do this and everything still work fine? thanks

Replies:

Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2016 at 8:06pm

Is it rated for continuous duty? Three things could cause this. Too much voltage to the coil. Too much current going through the contacts. A solenoid with a coil that is not rated for continuous duty.

Posted By: Burl
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2016 at 8:26pm

Doug , I really dont know that. The motor has electronic ing. I took the old one off(solenoid) and brought it to parts store and they gave me this one. How would I verify each?

Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2016 at 8:39pm

Have the parts store look it up. If you know the manufacturer and part number you can Google the specs. You can't tell by only looking at the outside. Starter solenoids generally are not continuous duty. They make solenoids that look exactly like a starter solenoid that is continuous duty.

Posted By: Burl
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2016 at 8:53pm

Thanks, I will research all of that tomorrow.

Posted By: 9GRANDKIDS
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2016 at 9:33pm

I know NOTHING about combines or whatever a K2 is. Just thinking about general mechanics though - If you're saying you don't need to turn the key to start... that it just does it when you go to accessories or on - I'd say the problem isn't the solenoid - it's the in the key switch or a short in the wiring on/to it.

It sounds like your starter is cranking the whole time it's running too. I wouldn't get a heavier rated solenoid - I'd figure out the problem or you might be buying a starter too or maybe having a fire.

Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2016 at 9:57pm

The solenoid you need should have two small terminals. One being a ground, the other a hot terminal from switch. Some have two small terminals, but one is only hot when solenoid is engauged. MACK

Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2016 at 10:02pm

It must be the high priced continuous duty solenoid,not the look alike.You may also find your wire ends aren't making the connection at the crimp.They look fine but ain't.

Posted By: Burl
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2016 at 10:42pm

It has the two small term . Every connection checked,cleaned,replaced. I bet they gave me one for an old Ford truck. I will go back tomorrow and ck if it is continuous duty and get back to ya. Thanks

Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2016 at 6:25am

I am assuming this solenoid is for something other than the starter, yes?

Posted By: Burl
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2016 at 8:02am

Doug , correct ! Feeds power to fuse box -to lights,gauges,12v to starter sol.ect.

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2016 at 8:09am

80 or 100 AMP continuous relay is what it is. Replacement from AGCO was changed to a different vendor 20 yrs ago.

Posted By: DanD
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2016 at 9:10am

Looks like a new one from AGCO is about $65 or so. If you google 80 amp (or 100) continuous duty solenoid a bunch of them will pop up.

Posted By: Burl
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2016 at 12:10pm

Ok,,,here whats going on. It was a std. starter sol. Changed it for a continuous 65 amp . They had it or a 200 amp cont. This machine has no extra options. Two lights and a am radio. Surely 65 amps will do. Please let me know what you think & I will go from there ! Also- the 65 amp is rated 750 amp intermittent.

Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2016 at 12:22pm

What was the price difference? I use to install 300 AMP continuous relays that looked exactly like starter relays. My rule of thumb always was to use something rated at double the nominal load.

Posted By: Burl
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2016 at 2:59pm

The 65A was $30 and the 200A was $60. Is this not the right thinking , if I developed a dead short somewhere in the system it would fry wires till 200 amp resistance was reached before kicking out?? The lit. said that they do have a kick-out and cool down cycle.

Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2016 at 3:33pm

Before I put in a 200 amp solinoid I would verify the wire gauge will handle the current. You don't want the solinoid rated for more current then the wire that is the first step to a fire. The wire should be the highest current rated part of the system.

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2016 at 3:57pm

Installing a 200 amp relay instead of 100 amp relay would be like pulling a 3 bottom plow with a 190XTD. Won't hurt a thing and would probably last longer because it's not loaded near its 100% rating.

Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2016 at 4:29pm

Is there a fuse between the battery and the solenoid? If so, whatever size that fuse or circuit breaker is will be the maximum that will go through the the solenoid. Use the 65 solenoid. It shouldn't be heating up. If it is too small it will eventually fail at the contact points. Upsize if that happens.

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2016 at 4:50pm

Pretty sure the main breaker (in the engine bay) is 80 to 100 Amp max.

Posted By: Burl
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2016 at 5:21pm

Here is the scoop. Got the 65 amp installed , everything works, NO HOT SOL.!!!After running 30 min. it is barely even warm. Turned on all elect devices ,everything good. I will live with this amp. till (or) if I have trouble. Thanks all,fixed for now !

Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2016 at 9:58pm

The amp is what it will carry, not what it will kick out. Should never kick out untill switch is turned off. MACK