WD 45 advice
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=129673
Printed Date: 18 Jun 2025 at 8:44am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: WD 45 advice
Posted By: BradH
Subject: WD 45 advice
Date Posted: 06 Oct 2016 at 8:10pm
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Okay guys, I'm stumped again. I've been trying to start working on my WD 45 some as money allows. I replaced the spark plugs yesterday. Never seen any as bad as the ones I took out. Black, Brown, and pretty crappy. Don't know how it ran as well as it did. Haven't had a chance to start it yet but I'm sure it'll do better now. So my trouble is this, there's a screw that absolutely won't move. It's one that holds on the metal band over the front of the gas tank. The one on the right came loose but the left one won't budge. Multiple tries with PB Blaster hasn't seemed to help. It's hard to get to and the slotted head of the screw is already messed up some. I've considered putting the impact driver to it but I'm afraid I'll completely ruin it. Don't have a torch either. Hoping you guys have suggestions. I'd also appreciate any suggestions on affordable ways to rewire the tractor as my wiring is terrible and I don't have much to spend right now. Sorry for the long post. Thanks always, Brad ------------- Warning! Blind man with a tractor! Head for the hills! |
Replies:
Posted By: WD45
Date Posted: 06 Oct 2016 at 8:14pm
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Propane torch may be all you need. Put the screwdriver in slot and hit end of screw driver to give the threads a jar.Then try turning back and forth. Good luck. ------------- Fred Dunlop, G,B,CA, WC,WF, 3 WD45`s,gas, diesel and LP,U,D10 series III, D12,D14,D15 SERIES II,D17 Series IV in Gas and Diesel ,D19 GAS and D21,170 185,210 ,220 an I-600 8070 fwd, 716H and 1920H |
Posted By: Larry in NC
Date Posted: 06 Oct 2016 at 8:17pm
| If you are going to work on old rusty things, you really need heat. You can invest in a mag torch set without spending a lot of money. The combination of gas and oxygen will give you enough heat to free up things link the rusty bolt. The tanks don't last long, but for limited use the system works great. |
Posted By: Dans 7080
Date Posted: 06 Oct 2016 at 8:18pm
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Id try the impact driver theyl surprize you with what they will do. Ive got many a screw out with them. ------------- When someone tells you Nothings Impossible, Tell them to slam a revolving door |
Posted By: BradH
Date Posted: 06 Oct 2016 at 8:55pm
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Now that I think about it I'm pretty sure I ran across a decent looking propane torch the other day when I was cleaning out the shed. I'll have to go back through the pile of stuff I saved and look again. But I'm really tempted to try the impact driver on it. Just don't want to strip that screw head out the rest of the way. Then I'm stuck with that problem. Thanks guys, Brad ------------- Warning! Blind man with a tractor! Head for the hills! |
Posted By: Dmpaul89
Date Posted: 06 Oct 2016 at 9:45pm
| i have a flat screwdriver bit that fits in my battery impact driver its really nice in tight places where you cant swing a hammer. impact is key also try to clean the threads on the back side as much as possible. |
Posted By: Dipstick In
Date Posted: 06 Oct 2016 at 10:20pm
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Turn the torque on the impact down and let it "chatter", you're not really wanting it to move much at first,,,,,,,,,,,,,, just let it "chatter" for several minutes,,,,,,,, and it may come loose. You may want to unscrew it, and then screw it in a teeny tiny bit, and then reverse. Acetone and auto trans fluid sometimes will get into the threads better than blaster, WD-40 and whatever. Worth a try too! ------------- You don't really have to be smart if you know who is! |
Posted By: Orange Tractors
Date Posted: 06 Oct 2016 at 11:26pm
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Over the years I have had better luck getting things loose with the old impact drivers that you hit with a hammer than anything else. A two or three pound hammer seems to work best with them. Make sure the bit fits the slot as well as you can make it, you don't need to be giving it any wiggle room to lose force. Penetrating oil and a propane torch sometimes works, too.
Robert
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Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 07 Oct 2016 at 12:52am
I run into this all the time on them danged old straps, first remove the right side bolt move the strap back and over the gas tank filler cap then the hood, with the hood off you can move the strap foreword and turn it some and you can get on the head of the bolt to work it in and then out. I'd leave the heat off the gas tank mounting bracket it's to close to the tank for me to put flame on it, if you still need to heat the bolt up remove the two 5/16" bolts from the back tank, gas line from the tank to the carb and remove the tank before heating the bolt. ------------- 3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep. |
BradH wrote:Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 07 Oct 2016 at 6:48am
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AS far as the wiring goes, contact Steve Barbato (on this forum as Steve in NJ) at http://www.bb-customcircuits.com/" rel="nofollow - B & B Circuits . He has custom made wiring harness for AC tractors. Steve is the go-to guy for anything electrical! |
Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 07 Oct 2016 at 7:03am
| Since you're on a pretty tight budget, the best option may be to just buy some wire and replace the old ones. It's won't be pretty, but it will work. I think you can get a wiring harness from yesterdays tractors for about $100. Not an original restoration quality, but it looks nice and works good. |
Posted By: Dusty MI
Date Posted: 07 Oct 2016 at 7:14am
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On stuck rusted nuts and bolts it often helps to turn them in the tighten direction a whisker. Dusty ------------- 917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express" |
Posted By: bigredisb
Date Posted: 07 Oct 2016 at 8:14am
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Impact Driver and heat and my D15 ones came right out. ------------- 1961 Allis-Chalmers D15 1949 Farmall Super A |
Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 07 Oct 2016 at 12:24pm
| If you wind up braking the bolt buy a 5 line bolt then, put it in a small drill and spin it against your grinder wheel. It will make it perfectly round. Then grind the head to the same thickness of the original. Then you can take your hacksaw and saw across the middle of the head of the bolt for your flat screwdriver to fit in. Rechuck the bolt and spin it against the grind wheel again to get that long slender taper back on the bolt. Looks good and you won't have to run all over creation to get the matching bolt. |
Posted By: tadams(OH)
Date Posted: 07 Oct 2016 at 2:40pm
| Just be careful using heat that close to the gas tank. It could be your last |
Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 07 Oct 2016 at 4:22pm
| Rusted bolts,screws and pins are part of "normal when working on these old tractors. We have all been there so don't feel bad about asking how to get them out, something to rejoice about when one stuborn one comes loose. Mark |
Posted By: BradH
Date Posted: 07 Oct 2016 at 4:25pm
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Thanks for all the hints and tips guys. I'm gonna take a stab at it this weekend when I get back out there. Hopefully no heat required. As far as wiring goes I'm gonna make it work for now. Think I'm gonna call a neighbor to come help. He's better than me at fixing things. I'll save up until I can talk to Steve about getting what I really need. I just need it to start and run for now so it can help haul firewood to heat the shed for the winter. Thanks again, Brad ------------- Warning! Blind man with a tractor! Head for the hills! |