D10 No Spark
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=129215
Printed Date: 24 Oct 2025 at 5:19pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: D10 No Spark
Posted By: Jeff K
Subject: D10 No Spark
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2016 at 7:31pm
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Guys, I need a little help please. I re-wired my D10 during restoration and now I have no spark and I don't really understand how the coil works. Looking at the pic below I have juice to all the green arrows when I turn the ignition on but I get no spark on the in-line tester (yes it's working) at the blue arrow. Am I missing something or does anyone have any advice? BTW - Should I see voltage coming out the top of the coil? I currently don't see any with my cheap light tester. Thanks guys, Jeff 
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Replies:
Posted By: Tracy Martin TN
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2016 at 7:50pm
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Just make sure you haven't overlooked something. Rotary button, points and condenser.HTH Tracy ------------- No greater gift than healthy grandkids! |
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2016 at 7:55pm
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'points' are NOT closing. Wrong gap( too wide) or insulating corrosion on points. To prove this ,turn ign on, take a wire and connect it to distributor points wire( last green arrow) and touch to ground.This 'mimics' what happens when the engine rotates and opens and closes the points. Each time you 'ground' you should get a spark from the high voltage center terminal of the coil.Simply take center lead of coil and place near engine metal about 1/4". Bright blue spark should happen every time you ground the coil. if you have an ammeter, it should read about 4 amps when the points close. Jay ------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2016 at 8:06pm
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Is there voltage to those 3 points when the ignition switch is turned to the start position?
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2016 at 8:16pm
| Did you change anything with new? Like the coil and especially the condenser. Doubt it could be the points, but you could put the old ones back in if it still doesn't fire. Let us know how it turns out so that we are able to help others. By the way, did you put the coil back on the right way? |
Posted By: Jeff K
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2016 at 8:33pm
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I just checked and there is indeed power in and out of the coil while turning it over. I opened up the distributor and I see a white film type substance on the points. I am no genius at this but I am betting those things are supposed to be a shiny surface to allow electricity to pass through them four times every rotation. It looks very much like a ceramic coating on the surfaces. The tractor ran 1 year ago before I started the restoration so that isn't much time to corrode but I guess it's possible. I will replace the condenser and point but does anyone know of a good way to clean these without removing them? I would like to know this is the issue. Thanks, Jeff |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2016 at 8:46pm
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The best point cleaner is a point file. The points are harder than an ordinary file so it takes an extra hard file. Last I looked (a few years ago) NAPA stores carried a point file. Carborundum sand paper often known as wet or dry should also clean them but will wear fast trying it. A test with the tester while cranking with the test light on either end of the wire between the coil and the distributor is that as the engine cranks that light must blink on and off. If it stays on the points are not making contact either from corrosion or the point gap being set wrong. When the points open and close there will be way too much voltage on the top of the coil for your tester. Changing the point gap also changes the ignition timing so set the gap first then the timing. Gerald J. |
Posted By: Jeff K
Date Posted: 25 Sep 2016 at 8:54pm
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Gerald after reading your message I am almost certain that it is the points. I know the light on my tester does not blink when attached to the last green arrow and it is turning over. I set the initial timing by reading the instructions on the manual (getting it close). I was kind of figuring on rotating the distributor a little by hand until it sounded right. What is the correct way to establish timing? Thanks, Jeff |
Posted By: Jeff K
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2016 at 6:23am
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Guys, I cleaned my points with a soft and tiny wire brush on the end of my Dremel and all is well. My electric light flashed when turning it over (with the tester on the lead) and then I put it together and there was indeed a spark in the wire. I will go and test point gap per the manual but I am quite pleased with getting a spark. This forum is the best tool I have. Thanks everyone :) Jeff |
Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2016 at 8:25am
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Actually, the bestest points cleaner is TV tuner cleaner or Brakekleen. Taking a file to the points just removes the cad plating that's on the points to protect them from corrosion. Once the Cad plating is removed, the points will oxidize much faster, and cleaning them will become a common thing unless changed out with new. Either cleaner will remove the oxidation and ozone from the contacts without hurting the Cad plating, and wiping a corner of a rag through the contacts after a little spritz is all that's needed to get current flowing again. A file has been a bad idea right from jump street ages ago... HTH Steve@B&B ------------- 39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife |
Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2016 at 8:34am
| What Steve said. Also, do you still have voltage at the points when they are closed and the ignition is on? If not, then your problem is not with your points. If you do not have voltage when the points are open your problem could be the condenser, the coil, or a connection anywhere in the circuit. |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2016 at 9:33am
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Point gap is critical to ignition function, all details. It has to be set with the rubbing block on the highest part of the distributor cam. Set with a feeler gauge. Timing is usually set with a timing light and is varied by the engine speed with the centrifugal advance mechanism in the distributor which also needs to be tested to see that it works. A gas engine needs more advance the faster it turns but should be advanced much if any at cranking speed. When ignition happens on the compression stroke it drastically slows the starter. Setting points and timing should be covered in the operator's manual, checking centrifugal advance probably is in the shop manual. Gerald J. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2016 at 11:19am
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I have used an old dollar bill to swipe thru points to clean them. Brake clean or contact cleaner may be necessary if they have a build up though. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2016 at 6:22pm
| If you want to set the gap, I always just use a matchbook cover. If you are going to change the points, put a pertronix electronic ignition unit in it. Same labor, but permanent fix... |