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AC D14 WONT START (ELECTRICAL ISSUES)

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=128911
Printed Date: 18 Dec 2025 at 7:56pm
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Topic: AC D14 WONT START (ELECTRICAL ISSUES)
Posted By: HVFDFIREFIGHTER
Subject: AC D14 WONT START (ELECTRICAL ISSUES)
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 2:18pm
[TUBE]qnQnpRZSPqs[/TUBE]

Tried to get the tractor started today, but no luck.  I took the spark plugs out and laid them on the engine, turned the key, no spark on the plugs.  

The video above has three videos combined.  The first part of the video shows  when I took wire off of the coil and touched engine block with key in the on position,  I do get spark but I think it is very weak.

The second part shows me touching the wire off of the coil and touched the points of the distributor.  One side has a weak spark, the other nothing.  The key is in the on position.

The third part of the video shows the points of the distributor opening and closing as i turn the key in the start position. 

I am running this on a 12 volt battery with negative ground (the way it was when I got it and I was able to get it running)  The battery has a full charge.

Any suggestions?  Bad coil?  Could I have wires connected wrong ?  




Replies:
Posted By: HVFDFIREFIGHTER
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 2:27pm
OK.  Finally figured out how to post the video.


Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 3:05pm
The wiring should go from the battery negative to the key switch from the key to the negative side of the coil from the positive side of the coil to the distrubitor.   The distributor will ground it back out to the battery through the engine block. It looks to me like you took the key switch wire to the coil and grounded it at the block and on the ground side of the points and get a spark no spark on the other side of the points if they where closed in the video would mean bad points.
If your coil is correct it will not have a resistor in the circuit just like I discribed above. If you measure across the two terminals on the coil with a multi meter you should get 3 ohms resistance.   The wiring I mentioned assumes you are running the factory 12 volt positive ground.
I think you have miss adjusted point too far open or bad points. Try looking at the points in the dark if they are working when you crank it over you will see a spark.


Posted By: HVFDFIREFIGHTER
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 3:27pm
Can the coil be backwards?


Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 3:28pm
Yes it can one side is marked plus that side goes to the distrubitor if you have positive ground


Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 3:40pm
let's see...
for a 12 volt,negative ground  D-14....

+ve of battery goes to ign switch
from there is goes to a 'ballast' resistor on the funny steel plate with the fuse
from there it goes to the +VE of the coil
the -ve of the coil goes to the distributor points
other side of points are grounded....

now some things to ponder..
if the tractor was a 6 volt and 'converted' to 12 it NEEDS either
another 'ballast' resistor in series ( in line) with the original IF the original 6 volt coil is used...
or
NO ballast resistor at all IF a true 12 volt coil is used....

A '12 volt' coil will measure 3 ohms across teh + and - terminals on the bench( nothing hooked up to it).

A 'weak' spark can be caused by using a '12 volt' coil AND any ballast resistor.
There's a hodge podeg of combinations one can find on tractors but the bottom line is you need about 4 amps of current through the coil to get good spark.


Jay





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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water


Posted By: HVFDFIREFIGHTER
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 3:53pm
What should the gap be on the distributed points?


Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 3:56pm
15 thousands about the thickness of an old paper matches box. The question is do they really close tight and do the parts that touch look nice and clean or pitted and ugly.


Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 4:09pm
if you have ANY resistors in the circuit, take them and the coil off, throw it away and get a new coil 12 volt coil. Old coil and resistor can give a weak or delay spark.. I would put a new capacitor on also, just for the fun of it.  Hook up as JAY said for negative ground.

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Like them all, but love the "B"s.


Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 4:13pm
So os the tractor positive or negative ground at the battery?   It left the factory 12 volt positive ground but could have been changed over the years. If you change the condenser Change the points it just isn't worth doing one and not the other the modern points and condenser kits are all cheap China crap that might or might not work definitely won't last. Atleast that has been my experience.


Posted By: Jack(Ky)
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 4:29pm
I got one running for a guy the other day and it turned out NAPA had a choice of 2 different rotor buttons. The one he got had a "hook" on the end. I put the old type back in it and it started right up.JP

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'59 D14 '68 170 Diesel '81 7020 40 All Crop


Posted By: HVFDFIREFIGHTER
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 4:33pm
OK, just went out and checked. Tractor is currently setup with negative from battery to ground. Negative side of coil is on the left and has yellow wire from ignition on it, positive side of coil is on right with wire going to side of distributor. With no wires on coil, and meter attached with black lead to - side of coil and red lead to + side of coil, and meter set at 200 ohms I get a reading of 04.8. Set at 2000 I get 005. Set at Arrow+ sign on meter I get 003. I'll try to post those pictures later.

        


Posted By: HVFDFIREFIGHTER
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 4:37pm
My old rotor has a hook that turns to cont the the wires. Thought about replacing distributor. Are distributor, wires, points and condenser fairly common? Can I get at Napa or do I need to special order?


Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 4:38pm
If the negative side of the battery is ground then the negative side of the coil goes to the distrubitor and the positive side of the coil goes to the key.


Posted By: HVFDFIREFIGHTER
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 4:41pm
According to jbmiller with my negative ground 12 volt system, I have my coil backwards right now( negative side of coil goes to ignition, + side of coil goes to side of distributor,) I will need to turn the coil 180 degrees so - on coil goes to distributor and + on coil goes to ignition.


Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 4:43pm
Do you mean cap wires points condenser and rotor? Yes common I personally would use a different parts store napa parts are not the quality they once where. I use sanels.   If it was me I would do points condenser check the cap and rotor for a visual inspection if they look clean and good not do them right away. Get the points and condenser so you know the coil is getting a charge and cycling through the points then check for spark out of the coil wire. If a plug will spark off the coil you are half way there. I wouldn't do wires cap and rotor till I had proven that the coil itself will light a plug. Once you have that a test in the dark will tell you alot about the wires they will look pretty blue if they are bad in the dark.


Posted By: HVFDFIREFIGHTER
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 4:44pm
The current distributor has two snap rings to hold together.


Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 5:41pm
Originally posted by Dan73 Dan73 wrote:

The wiring should go from the battery negative to the key switch from the key to the negative side of the coil from the positive side of the coil to the distrubitor.   The distributor will ground it back out to the battery through the engine block. It looks to me like you took the key switch wire to the coil and grounded it at the block and on the ground side of the points and get a spark no spark on the other side of the points if they where closed in the video would mean bad points.
If your coil is correct it will not have a resistor in the circuit just like I discribed above. If you measure across the two terminals on the coil with a multi meter you should get 3 ohms resistance.   The wiring I mentioned assumes you are running the factory 12 volt positive ground.
I think you have miss adjusted point too far open or bad points. Try looking at the points in the dark if they are working when you crank it over you will see a spark.


 In his post he said he is running 12 volt NEGATIVE GROUND! Oh, did I yell that  Wink


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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 5:43pm
Sorry I am not perfect and read over that....


Posted By: HVFDFIREFIGHTER
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 6:42pm
Well, ate dinner, had a few beers, switched coil around, cleaned up the points, regapped to .15 and well, here are the results.  Thank you for all of the help.  [TUBE]fNDeS1eMq9A[/TUBE]  [TUBE]VPZxKNX2j9s[/TUBE]


Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 6:45pm
Sweet sounds great!!!



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