Are any replacement B rims galvanized for rear?
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Topic: Are any replacement B rims galvanized for rear?
Posted By: Jonny B 1938
Subject: Are any replacement B rims galvanized for rear?
Date Posted: 17 Sep 2016 at 10:23am
| Was looking at new replacement rear rims, are any galvanized or all the new Titans painted? |
Replies:
Posted By: JimD
Date Posted: 17 Sep 2016 at 1:38pm
|
painted ------------- Owner of http://www.OKtractor.com" rel="nofollow - OKtractor.com PM for an instant response on parts. Open M-F 9-6 Central. We have new and used parts. 877-378-6543 |
Posted By: Jonny B 1938
Date Posted: 17 Sep 2016 at 2:59pm
| Looks like I am gonna need two rims and one set of clamps, one has holes rusted in it and the other is raised band. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 17 Sep 2016 at 3:15pm
|
john, there is a Rustoleum "antique aluminum" that looks pretty good on the rims, if you want to paint them. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 17 Sep 2016 at 3:21pm
 ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: Jonny B 1938
Date Posted: 17 Sep 2016 at 4:45pm
| Cool, I'll use that. It will look better than just plain silver paint. |
Posted By: BigMo(TX)
Date Posted: 17 Sep 2016 at 4:58pm
| If you were wanting to go 100% authentic you can have your new set galvanized. |
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 17 Sep 2016 at 4:59pm
|
You 'used' to buy 'galvanized' primer at one time...maybe someone still makes it ? Whatever you paint with, if you can wait a MONTH, let the paint get good and hard on the rims BEFORE you re-tire them. The longer you can wait, the tougher they'll be. Jay ------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
Posted By: shameless (ne)
Date Posted: 17 Sep 2016 at 5:40pm
| agrees with Jay! |
Posted By: Ken in Texas
Date Posted: 17 Sep 2016 at 6:09pm
| All my restored or new rims are finish painted with a brush using a mixture of black gloss enamel and brite rustoleum aluminum paint mixed to the color of older galvanized steel. Try it you may like it. |
Posted By: Jonny B 1938
Date Posted: 17 Sep 2016 at 6:18pm
| I was,thinking of having them galvanized, being close,to Chicago there are a lot of metal finishing companies out here. Cost is the biggest factor at this point, I am in the process of fixing up a Bronco at the same time and I am on a fixed income so I can only do so much at a time. |
Posted By: Jonny B 1938
Date Posted: 17 Sep 2016 at 7:37pm
| Found this, looks like it would work.http://www.zrcworldwide.com/index.php/products/zrc-galvilite |
Posted By: Chalmersbob
Date Posted: 17 Sep 2016 at 8:47pm
|
I use Rustoleum Pewter gray paint. I think it looks pretty good. Galvanized primer is to be used on galvanized metal before paint is applied. Galvanized metal will not hold paint without the primer. LOL Bob ------------- 4 B's, 1 C's,3 CA's, 2 G's WD, D14, D15, B-1, B10, B12, 712S, |
Posted By: Ken in Texas
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 6:59am
|
I worked a Government steel painting speck paint job in Fort Worth 40 years ago where we actually sprayed zink dust suspended in a fast drying colorless liquid that required continious agitation to keep the heavy zink dust in suspention in our spray equipment. What was required was a dry coat of zinc on the steel of a certain mill thickness to prevent rust. The product name was ZINK-IT. Came only in Gallon buckets. Vary heavy like a old bucket of Dutch Boy White Lead. . It was special ordered thru a electrical supply company. The product was called a cold galvanizing process. Looked like flat gray paint when dry. If you rubbed it with steel wool enough it would shine up a little bit. Horrible stuff to work with keeping it flowing in spray equipment.. Tried brushing it once. It could be done but only with lots of practice. |
Posted By: Jonny B 1938
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 8:10am
| The stuff I posted the link to dries shiny silver and is a zinc coating, it claims it has the same finish and durability as hot galvanizing. The use for it is to touch up welded areas and corroded sections to match hot galvanized parts after repair, whether it actually holds up to its claim I do not know? I have used the old battleship grey cold galvanizing stuff before and it worked but the finish was not too impressive. All the other tractors I have done I used aluminum cast blast paint then flat clear coat on top, it does a great job of matching the original color but you can tell it is a two stage finish. Something like this Eastwood paint but I used quarts instead of rattle cans.http://www.eastwood.com/ew-aluma-blast-paint-aerosol-12-oz.html |
Posted By: Jonny B 1938
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 8:20am
| Guess links do not work here either LOL, I can't post pics either. Must be an Apple IOS thing. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 4:14pm
|
jonny, instead of inserting the line directly in the message at the bottom of the screen, click on the "POST REPLY" button just above that to the left... just under the LAST post.. You will get a new message box. Paste your link in the upper right corner in the link box... watch out, they put the http: in for you ........ might have to erase it before you paste. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: BrianC
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 6:32pm
|
Scenario: Can't/wont re-hot dip, but you want some zinc for corrosion protection. So you decide to try a high zinc content "cold galvanize" primer. For the most part, oil based primers or topcoats will not stick to zinc for long. The zinc reacts with the oil based coating and it peels off in a few years. Look around town at painted-over galvanized railings and guardrails, corrugated roofs. You probably have seen this. This applies to plated zinc, hot dip ,thermal spray and the cold galvanize sprays. So the situation at Home Depot or whomever, there is the tall spray can of cold galvanized spray right next to their oil based primers and paints. This is a failure combo. The cold galvanize spray does not look that pretty and you do want to top coat it. I have not tried to buff it up, but none of them shine when dry like a new 2 gallon galvanized bucket. Compatible materials over zinc and zinc type primers include latex primer/paint, two part epoxy primers, two part urethane primers. Then topcoat with whatever is compatible with that. Three layers, whew, ya sure you want zinc? I am experimenting with zinc spray (ZincBrite) on a rim, top coated with VHT Wheel Paint. Two layers. The VHT Wheel Paint is a "polyurethane" type paint. I used Ford Argent Silver. With luck that polyurethane wheel paint will stick to the zinc primer. 1.5 years now and holding on well. Use their wheel paint, not their hi temp engine enamels. Color choices are limited. But the wheel paint can be top coated with anything. If I remember, I will report back at the 5 year mark. Not as ugly as cold zinc sprays are aluminum bearing moisture-cured polyurethane primers. Not available in rattle cans. Easy to find brands are Master Coat and Rust Bullet. This is OK looking as a one layer process. Need 2-3 coats however. Read the Rust-Bullet tests. I think they are claiming the aluminum provides some zinc-like galvanic protection to scratches. These can be top coated with "anything". However it won't adhere unless you scuff it up, use the Rust Bullet etcher, or you top coat right after the prime, like in a 4 hour window. You need top notch breathing protection for these in my opinion. Another option. When my sandblaster broke I took the rim to a finishing shop for blasting. They said they could thermal spray zinc-aluminum alloy for I think $50 per rim (12 x28's). This would come out looking rough, like a hot dip lag bolt. I didn't do it as other rim was already painted silver. |
Posted By: Jonny B 1938
Date Posted: 19 Sep 2016 at 8:29am
| Ah I see, I am stumbling through all this forum stuff as this site is totally different than the FSB forum ( Full Size Bronco) forum I belong to. To make things worse my iPad just updated to 10.0 so everything has changed and I can't find anything. I think I need a windows laptop LOL. |
Posted By: Jonny B 1938
Date Posted: 19 Sep 2016 at 8:42am
| The bright zinc galvanized coating I found online looks like a doable solution, the clear over aluminum works real good also. I agree that blasting is the best method regardless of the base finish, even it you just scuff it and do not go down to white metal. I have used a galvanized etching primer for our shed and corn crib roofs and has held up well for 15 years with no peeling in the hot sun and snow. I have top coated it once as the hunter green started to fade after 8 years of cooking in the UV light. I know what you mean about peeling as I have seen bad paint paint jobs on tractor rims at shows and did duct work for a living for many years. Factories and people with exposed duct in basements love to spray or roll latex over their galvanized metal, it falls off like plastic wrap LOL. |