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gleaner AC questions

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=128651
Printed Date: 03 May 2025 at 2:09pm
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Topic: gleaner AC questions
Posted By: Dmpaul89
Subject: gleaner AC questions
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 7:03am
tried to charge my F yesterday. i put on an r134a adapter on the suction side of the compressor. started combine, AC on, added a can of ester conversion oil, and two cans of freon. i have nothing. the compressor runs but it never gets cool air in the cab. also noticed the compressor seemed pretty hot after only a couple minutes.      how much coolant do these systems hold? im trying to figure if i need to add more or if there is a big leak somewhere. after adding two cans the pressure gauge had a steady decline to 0.           i know, i know, should of pulled a vaccum... but i dont have the tool



Replies:
Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 7:14am
I'm no expert, but it sounds like a big leak to me. 


Posted By: Dmpaul89
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 8:23am
i just dont see how it could leak so bad. all the hoses look good the whole combine is in really good shape. hate to waist cans of r134a though.    never messed with an AC sytem this old l, have done several cars and trucks.     for all i know it could hold 10 cans lol. combine manual doesnt go into detail


Posted By: Dmpaul89
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 8:27am
Another thing I just thought of. Since the new r134a fittings have valve cores I just left the compressor valves open. Do they need to be closed to work?


Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 9:04am
The vacuum is the first problem. Was this a 12 system that leaked down? If you don't have a pump, and it looks like you just opened it to the atmosphere, you're not going to be able to get it to work. It must have all of the air out of the system.

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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford


Posted By: 8050/8030/185
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 9:20am
It has air in the system and has to be evacuated and start from scratch with the R134a. Air in the system can ruin the compressor, which causes the hot compressor. Get a vaccum pump on the system and have the gauges on the system and wait two hours or more to make sure you still have a vacuum before adding any R134a. If the vacuum has bleed down any, you have a leak.



Posted By: Dmpaul89
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 10:02am
I will rent a vaccum then


Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 10:18am
You can get vacuum pumps reasonably at Harbor Freight. They even have air powered pumps that are like under $50 last time I saw. Pull all of the air and old refrigerant out, recharge with 1 can of 134 that has dye in it and then add straight 134 up to 1/2 the R12 capacity. That gets it close. From there you'll have to sneak up on what it likes.

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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford


Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 10:20am
One more thing, resist the urge to put stop leak in it. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. It can do expensive damage to a recovery recharge machine.

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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford


Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 10:22am
With dye in the system, you can find any leaks with a black light. If they're big enough, you'll see it with a naked eye.

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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford


Posted By: mattb
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 1:01pm
don't put oil in the system, it stays in the compressor


Posted By: Adam Stratton
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 1:33pm
Make sure all the hose fittings are tight.I just found that the discharge was about to fall off of one of ours, leak solved! Most have to turn the valves on and off. Good luck!


Posted By: wekracer
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 1:47pm
I might also add that I like to know what the high side is doing too. It should be roughly 134+ambient temp. So on an 80 degree day I want it to be 215 and between 20-30 on the low side. I have found that it doesn't need to be very low to not cool


Posted By: shameless (ne)
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 2:24pm
make sure the heat switch is turned off.


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 8:59pm
When my F2 is low(not cooling) 2 cans of 134 is about what it needs. I'm sure it's not empty but I doubt it would take more than 3 cans total.I still watch the glass in the drier and when the fog is gone it cools good.


Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 9:55pm
as stated . pull a vacuum and check for leaks. remember these have service valves. All the way out shuts off the service valves. Only turn in about 1 turn to service.  The pressure on a 90 degree day should be 225 high and less than 20 on the low. When the compressor turns on the FANS MUST kick on - the current from the thermostat will not pull the fans and the clutch - there must be a relay in the electrical system for the clutch and fans..  Clean the condenser core it will be dirty.  If it does not take the heat out it will not cool . There were many updates to the AC system as to location of high and low pressure switches.  Finally if the system has been open the receiver drier will have to be replaced as the guts can fracture and spread through out the system.  There is an expansion valve that regulates the pressure, but it cannot function in a dirty system or if either the evap core or condenser cores are dirty.



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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..


Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 9:59pm
If it has the shut off valves, open them 1/2 turn.   MACK


Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2016 at 9:53am
i would check the line from the dryer to the expansion valve and expansion valve for debre from the dryer coming apart i also change all valve cores they seem like thats were alot of small leaks are after they have been used     also every thing t bran says and you will be going


Posted By: VAfarmboy
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2016 at 11:47am
Are you converting it over from R12 to 134 or has it already been converted?  If so I think you need to replace the dryer as well.  I know we did that when we converted the ACs in  all of ours after our source for bootlegged Mexican R12 who was also the local drug dealer got caught by the DEA with a plane load of dope and went to jail.   

Not sure if that was overkill or not but I know the mechanic at the dealership said it wouldn't work if we didn't do it.

You definitely need to draw a vacuum on the system to get all the air out or it won't ever work.







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