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Model B Clutch Shaft

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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=127172
Printed Date: 07 Sep 2025 at 3:40pm
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Topic: Model B Clutch Shaft
Posted By: Brendan (AB)
Subject: Model B Clutch Shaft
Date Posted: 12 Aug 2016 at 11:26pm
Were all of the clutch shafts used in the Model B solid? The reason I ask, is that I just took the shaft out of two different B's and one had a solid shaft, and the other used a hollow tube. The one with the hollow tube looked like it may have been fabricated by someone, as the spline that goes into the clutch was welded onto the tube, as was the sleeve at the back. Looking in the parts book, it shows the splined sleeve being a separate part.
Thanks in advance.



Replies:
Posted By: Ken in Texas
Date Posted: 13 Aug 2016 at 3:35am
They were all solid shafts in any that I have had in my hand. Both the ones with the u-joint and without


Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 13 Aug 2016 at 9:11am
I have found the earliest B's had a hollow shaft maybe 1938 or 39 tractors, but most where updated to the solid shafts after breaking. If you have a hollow shaft and have it out I'd change to the solid shaft.    

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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.



Posted By: Rick
Date Posted: 13 Aug 2016 at 12:54pm
Yep...have seen some of the hollow shafts in the early B's. I think a lot of them had been changed over throughout the later years though.   Rick


Posted By: Ken in Texas
Date Posted: 13 Aug 2016 at 1:51pm
OOPS.   After checking again the 10 drive shafts in my pile of B&C clutch shafts. All ARE just a piece of hollow pipe. Some have u-joints some don't.    


Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 13 Aug 2016 at 5:15pm
Originally posted by Ken in Texas Ken in Texas wrote:

OOPS.   After checking again the 10 drive shafts in my pile of B&C clutch shafts. All ARE just a piece of hollow pipe. Some have u-joints some don't.    

Ya just saved me from tossing a rock atchya. Wink LOL


Posted By: Ken in Texas
Date Posted: 13 Aug 2016 at 6:57pm
Nobody is perfect. I will be the first one to admit it.
I got out of the line of fire just in time.
I guess I never pulled one out that was solid. Wish they all were. They would make great horseshoe pitching stakes. I think the hollow ones would be good enough to toss horseshoes at.


Posted By: Brendan (AB)
Date Posted: 14 Aug 2016 at 12:47am
Thanks a lot for all of the replies. Sounds like it would be best to use the solid shaft.


Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 14 Aug 2016 at 9:03am
Originally posted by Brendan (AB) Brendan (AB) wrote:

Thanks a lot for all of the replies. Sounds like it would be best to use the solid shaft.

Why fix something that is not broke?  1938 was 78 years ago and I have never heard of one twisting off.  My pulling C was around 50 horse and it held up fine.  A solid shaft would place several times of the weight on the throw out bearing assembly would hold up.  Also the pilot bushing would have the extra weight causing it to have a shorter life.  How many semi tractors have you heard of that had solid drive shafts?

I have seen the 1/2" rod that the throw out assembly pivots on that goes thru the torque tube wore halve way thru.  


Posted By: Brendan (AB)
Date Posted: 14 Aug 2016 at 1:23pm
The hollow one is not currently usable. The splines inside the collar that's welded to the hollow shaft are completely stripped out. If I wanted to use that one, I'd have to cut the weld and replace the collar. It will be easier to use the solid shaft. I was just curious about the differences.


Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 14 Aug 2016 at 2:28pm
Originally posted by Brendan (AB) Brendan (AB) wrote:

The hollow one is not currently usable. The splines inside the collar that's welded to the hollow shaft are completely stripped out. If I wanted to use that one, I'd have to cut the weld and replace the collar. It will be easier to use the solid shaft. I was just curious about the differences.

If you were closer I would give you one.  Any Allis scrap yard should have them laying around.  The way they get striped out is the cotter key falls out or is not put back in when it was being worked on.  I bought a B that was stripped out on the end but when pushed back to where the cotter key lined up there was plenty of spline to drive the tractor. The transmission shaft was not damaged. 


Posted By: Ken in Texas
Date Posted: 14 Aug 2016 at 4:35pm
I'm with Dick L.
   If you were closer I would give you my BEST drive shaft from the 10 extras I have on the shelf. Cotter key included.
I looked again and all the ones without a u-joint on the tranny end are hollow and have the splined sleeve welded on.
I'm willing to bet there were thousands more hollow B/C/CA driveshafts than the solid ones.
Not sure if a CA Drive shaft is hollow or solid. I have weighted my CA up to #5000 pulling weight and no drive shaft failiers yet.



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