Removing tires
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=127002
Printed Date: 16 Jun 2025 at 2:18pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Removing tires
Posted By: HVFDFIREFIGHTER
Subject: Removing tires
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2016 at 1:56pm
| Put PB blaster on all lug bolts on all four tires. Hit back tires with impact gun and got all of them out, finally. What a pain. The front ones won't budge. I will have to heat them. How hot do I need to get them? Dull cherry red? I don't want them to break off in the cast. |
Replies:
Posted By: Alberta Phil
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2016 at 2:18pm
|
I usually hit the ends of the bolts with PB Blaster on the inside of the hubs and the outer side at the wheel. After soaking for a while, maybe even a couple of days, then take the impact and start running the bolts forward then back until you see some movement. Might take quite a few cycles before they start to move, but I've always eventually got them loose without breaking the hub. Some heat might help, but not red hot as that will make the bolt soft and then it might twist off! |
Posted By: shameless (ne)
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2016 at 2:48pm
| I agree with Phil on this. also heating them will also melt the grease in the bearings, so if you do heat them, make sure you check the bearings afterwards. |
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2016 at 5:58pm
|
Not having a 'blue wrench', I've used a 4by 4,proped up to allow me to whack it, which then hits the INSIDE of the rim. 3 or 4 good whacks and they've all come off. My problem is having enough wind and stomach to get 1 or 2 whacks in, sigh..... it works best of YOUNG help is available !! just be careful, be sure it can't fall down and hurt anyone !! Jay ------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2016 at 6:06pm
| The wax trick works good on this application, too. Heat bolt in question to about 4-500ºF, then melt a beeswax candle against the threads, on back, and the head and wheel, on the front. Let it cool and the wax wicks into the threads, and the tapered area of the bolts... |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2016 at 6:23pm
|
Kroil is generally more effective than P.B Blaster but harder to acquire. Then a half and half mix of acetone and ATF is reputed to be better than Kroil, but hard to keep contained and it takes a special sprayer pump to survive the acetone. Shock and vibration are good at cracking rust and getting the penetrating oil into the rust. Gerald J. |
Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2016 at 6:33pm
| What are you trying to remove the tires from. I use free all it works better than PB blaster and a 3/4" impact. They come right off. If the rim is stuck to the hub. Pound on the outside of the rim towards the hub the vibration will loosten the hub center. Ther is no need to pound from the back side it more efficient to pound it in. I have had a couple so stuck the only way to get them off was torch the wheel in two pieces. |
Posted By: Ted in NE-OH
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2016 at 7:36pm
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BE CAREFUL !! If you heat the rim the air in the tire goes up fast and tire explodes. Doesn't take a lot of heat. ------------- CA, WD, C, 3 Bs, 2 Gs, WC, I-400, 914 |
Posted By: HVFDFIREFIGHTER
Date Posted: 10 Aug 2016 at 2:15pm
| Does it have to be beeswax or will any kind of wax do? Don't think i have any beeswax on hand. I can get it. but it would require a trip into town. |
Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 10 Aug 2016 at 2:22pm
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Listen to Ted. I've seen the videos and it's nothing to play around with using heat near a mounted tire. Even removing the valve stem may not be enough under certain conditions. ------------- 1957 WD45 dad's first AC 1968 one-seventy 1956 F40 Ferguson |
Posted By: wfmurray
Date Posted: 10 Aug 2016 at 2:59pm
| When a bolt is in a threaded casting sometimes it helps to give it a few whacks one the head with a hammer and the above suggestons. |
Posted By: JeffMOnt
Date Posted: 10 Aug 2016 at 3:07pm
| Have you tried a breaker bar yet? I always have the best success with those. If you don't have one try using a pipe on a wrench as a cheater bar. |
Posted By: bradley6874
Date Posted: 10 Aug 2016 at 4:28pm
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Put a breaker bar on it with a 6 point socket put a cheater pipe on it put a good bit of pressure on the bar while holding pressure have somebody drive the socket on to the bolt head about two whacks is all it takes the mating breaks the taper seat on the head of the lug and they. Loosen right up ------------- You can wash the dirt off the body but you can’t wash the farmer out of the heart and soul |
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 10 Aug 2016 at 5:25pm
I agree. Don't put so much pressure on to break off the bolts, but a couple good cracks with a hammer usually loosens stubborn bolts.
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bradley6874 wrote:Posted By: HVFDFIREFIGHTER
Date Posted: 10 Aug 2016 at 5:40pm
| Well I heated them up, put the beeswax on, let it cool enough that it would not melt any more wax, used my breaker bar and 3/4 socket. All came loose. I did not remove tires yet. I have it jacked up and supported with jack stands and 6x6s on all four corners. I'll wait till tomorrow morning to see if the tires are still in the air. Then all tires should be easy to remove as all bolts have been loosened. Although, I do seem to remember on my WD, have to whack the front rims to get them off the tractor. We'll see how that goes. |