How would you build a wc puller?
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Topic: How would you build a wc puller?
Posted By: JM
Subject: How would you build a wc puller?
Date Posted: 21 Jul 2016 at 4:35pm
If you wanted to pull a wc in a 3mph class, 4500lb max wt, rules allow 15.5-38s how would you build it?
Would you go 15.5s no matter what, or try 28s?
Would you build the engine past stock hp?
Overall how would you build it?
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Replies:
Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 21 Jul 2016 at 7:28pm
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No way a stock HP WC motor would pull 38's
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Charlie
'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD
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Posted By: mike a
Date Posted: 21 Jul 2016 at 8:01pm
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4 1/8 wd pistons,175 cam,175 gov.spring,motec carb,rc rear-end,enjoy!
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Posted By: Zaddison
Date Posted: 22 Jul 2016 at 12:40am
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Good luck finding a 175 cam and if u did pretty sure you have to change the oil pump also. I think a d17 gives you more rpms but you could just mill your gov weights down a little. Finding a rc rearend is not easy or cheap Id save your money for the motor. You could send your cam out to be reground for around $200 dollars. ive got a 240 in my wc 11:1 comp. reground cam, larger intake valves stock exhaust ported head, larger carb and it makes a honest 55 hp. I have high crop gears pull second gear till 5 thousand pound class then drop to first gear. Sometimes I win sometimes I lose.
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Posted By: JM
Date Posted: 22 Jul 2016 at 4:40am
Posted By: Zaddison
Date Posted: 22 Jul 2016 at 4:44am
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15.5/38 and 13.6/38 I run the 13.6s more tho they are about a inch and a half taller then the 15.5s
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Posted By: Robacpuller
Date Posted: 25 Jul 2016 at 9:16pm
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I had a wc engine with 4 1/8 pistons and 45 crank. I ran 13.6-36 tires on 14 inch rims I had big valves and ported head,carb work and d17 cam. Ran 1550 rpms I did good in classes 3500,3750,4000,4250. Tires and rpms in 1st put me at 3.5 mph. But at times I ran out of power in classes over 4000 to 4500. So I built a D17 motor to 400 cubes. Plenty of power now. Now I run 15.5 38s 1st gear 2o% over rpms at 4.8 mph.I have $3000 in complete build, I did all the work myself. A friend did the boring of block and I had the crank stroked to 6 inches 4.600 bore.
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Posted By: JM
Date Posted: 27 Jul 2016 at 4:55pm
How did your friend bore it? Does he have a engine boring machine or something else? I have a Bridgeport mill and am trying to figure out if I can bore with it. Its about 600 to bore a block and 1800 to stroke a crank around my area. If I could bore it myself, I can get sleeves cheap, and am thinking about making my own 4 5/8 pistons.
I was thinking about tires and why 38 seem to do better and what I have seen is 38 always get 3 cleats on the track. My 28 can to if I run low pressure. So if I can get the same bars on the track it seems like 28s should be able to work. Maybe I am thinking wrong.
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Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 27 Jul 2016 at 7:11pm
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When you run (excessively) low air pressure, you lose hitch height and, thus, weight transfer.
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Posted By: Robacpuller
Date Posted: 27 Jul 2016 at 8:26pm
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He did it on a bridgeport. Bored to fit the sleaves, took counter bore out of top of block,we turned the sleaves down on the bottom .o26 gave sleaves. 001 clerance and pressed them in. I used lock tight sleave sealer. 9 years ago never leaked. We o-ringed the top of block, used a .050 stainless wire and copperhead gasket. I used big block Chevy pistons, 4.600 with a 1.24 piston height. The piston were flat top we took a little off top of pistons to back off compression some. It has 110 hp. I run 10 psi air pressure in tires, u want them to squat a little so the whole lug makes contact with the track not just the center.
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