WD45 block/sleeve oring mating surface?
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=125847
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Topic: WD45 block/sleeve oring mating surface?
Posted By: Allis dave
Subject: WD45 block/sleeve oring mating surface?
Date Posted: 13 Jul 2016 at 3:10pm
| In the bottom web of the WD45 block where the sleeve orings rest, my block has 2 grooves where the old orings were. Were these grooves machined or has the block corroded and a should try to smooth out the area with Beloza super metal or something similar? There is some pitting in the area but not too terrible. Don't want to have leaky orings. |
Replies:
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 13 Jul 2016 at 3:17pm
| Those a smooth bores.I know when cleaning mine,the cleaner it got the smoother it got.Lots of sanding,scraping.If everything is down to bare/base metal and you have grooves,I think JB might be in order. |
Posted By: Skyhighballoon(MO)
Date Posted: 13 Jul 2016 at 3:29pm
|
My Series IV had that issue...had the block machined and new deck bushings installed. MIke
------------- 1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex 1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330 1969 180 gas 1965 D17 S-IV gas 1963 D17 S-III gas 1956 WD45 gas NF PS 1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin 303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers |
Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 13 Jul 2016 at 5:16pm
| Just talked to a local mechanic shop that has worked on these and he says there is supposed to be 2 grooves cut in the bottom of each web for the orings?? They look like they're supposed to be there, but I never saw one of these blocks close to new. |
Posted By: Alex09(WI)
Date Posted: 13 Jul 2016 at 6:43pm
|
I am not aware of any WD45 block that has grooves for the orings in the block. Only the D15 block has oring grooves in the block. Check your old sleeves to see if they have grooves in for orings.
------------- www.awtractor.com A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287 KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY |
Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 13 Jul 2016 at 8:14pm
|
Dave I'd start sanding the lower bore holes the 201/226 engines don't have lower O-ring groves so if your engine has groves and it's not just a build-up of crap then I'd do what Mike was talking about he had done to his. ------------- 3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 13 Jul 2016 at 8:20pm
Somebody should set him straight, or find another shop! ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Allis dave wrote:Posted By: BrianC
Date Posted: 13 Jul 2016 at 8:34pm
|
Only the D15 has grooves in the block? How about D14 and D10-12? What is the fix for corroded grooves in D15 block? |
Posted By: Kevin in WA
Date Posted: 13 Jul 2016 at 11:47pm
| D10, 12 14 15 all have grooves in the block for the o-rings, B C CA WD WD45 D17 170 175 all have grooves in the sleeve. |
Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 14 Jul 2016 at 7:57am
|
The old M&W sleeves had groves in them for the orings. The new sleeves do too. The block was tank tanked and I cleaned out the lower web with a wirewheel on the end of a die grinder. So there is no gunk in there at all. DO you think it'd work to fill in with some high quality filler, or better to sleeve. Sleeve sounds better, but also pretty expensive. |
Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 14 Jul 2016 at 9:00am
|
Might call your engine shop and get a price to sleeve the lower block before moving forward on the engine, just saying it's a long way back inside again. I'm doing a block replacement on a WD45 gas engine right now over this same thing, if I didn't find a good replacement block I'd sleeve the bottom of the old block and go to work building her.
------------- 3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep. |
Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 14 Jul 2016 at 9:10am
|
I think you're right Don. It's a long way back inside... The rest of the block is good. Line bore is good, and no cracks in the upper web. The deck is a little off though. Just got a price of $800 to cut and sleeve the lower web, and deck and re-counterbore the block. If I was more experienced, I would've caught all this earlier. Thanks for everyone's help. |
Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 14 Jul 2016 at 9:22am
|
That's a little high to me but one thing about it you will have one nice engine after you are done with it. Might look around for a better block. I know it costs money to rebuild old tractors! One good thing about your rebuild is she will not cost what a 45-Diesel costs. I don't like spending big money on rebuilds but I know who the guy is the customer will call if she go's down. I remember thirty years ago that a engine over haul on WD/WD45 being a straight forward job not the bigger deal it is now. ------------- 3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep. |
Posted By: Clay
Date Posted: 14 Jul 2016 at 10:01am
|
This is not a difficult repair (for me). I have repaired several engines with BELZONA 1111 (Super Metal). Caterpillar even list it as a repair. http://www.acmoc.org/bb/archive/index.php/t-13570.html?s=bf49fbfafd63cf42c683599da9bbcf37" rel="nofollow - http://www.acmoc.org/bb/archive/index.php/t-13570.html?s=bf49fbfafd63cf42c683599da9bbcf37 http://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/showthread.php?33703-Cylinder-Block-deck-repair-tricks-%28in-frame%29" rel="nofollow - http://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/showthread.php?33703-Cylinder-Block-deck-repair-tricks-(in-frame)
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Posted By: BrianC
Date Posted: 14 Jul 2016 at 4:39pm
|
What would be the repair process using the BELZONA 1111? Must it be machined? |
Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2016 at 7:41am
|
Maybe my memory exaggerates problems with time. Back to working on it again last night. There is corrosion on the surface above were the top oring sits, but where it seats and below is fine and smooth. Looks like Coolant corroded down to the oring but couldn't get any farther. So I'm happy. Lubed up the top and bottom webs and orings with John Deere oring soap and installed the new 4" sleeves last night. Thanks for all the advice guys. Maybe I'll get to work on another one of these someday and be lucky enough to remember this. |