Help me identify this tractor
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=124888
Printed Date: 12 Sep 2025 at 10:36am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Help me identify this tractor
Posted By: joshdc91
Subject: Help me identify this tractor
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2016 at 10:44am
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Hi all! I’m hoping some of you can give me some advice and point me in the right direction. My fiancée's grandmother is getting ready to hold an auction, and an older Alice Chalmers tractor will be going up. I’ve spoken with grandma, and she’d rather it go to me rather than to someone outside of the family. Having worked on cars, small engines, and motorcycles, I’m mechanically inclined, but don’t have any experience with farm tractors. I’m interested in taking this on as a project, but have a few questions. First, here are a few photos: http://imgur.com/a5621Zb" rel="nofollow"> http://imgur.com/YkItCwO" rel="nofollow"> What is missing? I’m not seeing a radiator, or hood. Anything else I’m missing? What in particular should I be looking at/for? I will be seeing the tractor in person this weekend, and will have more details and better pictures then. What would be a fair price? What is is? From what little research I’ve done, It looks to be a B/C/CA. Any indication of model or year? Is there a data plate on the machine that I can look for to give me some more information? What would I need to do right away? I’m unsure when the last time this was run. I’m hoping any parts that are missing can be found on the property, but I need to know what to look for. I appreciate any and all help you all are able to provide. I’ll make sure to update you when I know more. In the meantime, do you have any recommended forums or articles I can take a look at to start reading and learning? |
Replies:
Posted By: Larry in NC
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2016 at 10:53am
| It is a CA. The radiator, grill and hood are missing. You should find out if the engine is locked up and if so if water is in the crankcase. That large muffler is for a D series tractor and will have to be replaced to install the hood. If the engine is not stuck and the rear rims are good, no more than $500 if it has sentimental value. |
Posted By: joshdc91
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2016 at 11:10am
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How do water in the crank case, and a locked up engine relate? What should I be looking for in the rear rims? Straight and not bent? OR is there more to it? Thanks!
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Posted By: Steve(SEMN)
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2016 at 11:22am
| The two holes in the front casting that stick out(which are for a cultivator bracket) and the spin out rims tell us its a ca. |
Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2016 at 11:51am
| Well, what can happen is that water can get down from the top side to the crankcase, but at the same time it can stop on top of the pistons and not go much further, but can sure lock the engine up. If it has set outside, for me I'd pull the head and take a look, plus the pan. Tain't cost nothin' yet.LOL And there's several places on this site you can save some money on parts instead of Acgo who seem pricey but good. Drain all fluids the first thing. If water is in tranny, hydraulic system, engine etc. you'll get a cleaner job by not mixing them up trying to turn the engine over. Gotta change'em anyway. But if there is no water in anything go ahead and loosen it up and after you get it started and warmed up, then drain oils. Sounds like there is a possibility that the radiator went bad, was removed to repair and job never completed. Look hard for missing parts. You could pull the plugs and pour a mixture of kerosene and acetone in on the pistons and let it set for 24 hrs. or longer and see if it loosens up. There's a small inspection cover on the LH side of the flywheel housing that you can take off and reach in and prize the flywheel back and forth to get the engine to loosen up. Might take a month but don't give up. Another good way is since the rad. and hood are off it would be easy to chain or wire a long 4X4 to the front pulley crossways, and hang a heavy weight on it. Use as long as you have handy. You know, the old fulcrum story. I forgot what your other questions were but you're fortunate to find a CA like this. In my opinion there was never a better little tractor made for the time. Time to eat. See you later. Leon Cmo P.S. send pics. |
Posted By: irlbeck A-C'S
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2016 at 11:55am
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Welcome to the forum. The water in the crankcase that Larry is talking about shouldn't be in there. It comes from rain getting in the motor (uncovered exhaust) or from a old internal problem that could have put antifreeze or water in there. Look for a busted block too. The rear rims can rust out from fluid that was installed in them for weight or from sitting down in the dirt. If the shifter boot is busted or missing it will also have water in the transmission. More pics from all sides will definitely help.Check the rear lift also to see if all the parts are there. It appears it has a snap coupler under it for connecting implements. Looks like I see one snap coupler lift latch on the back. Hard to see the pics real good with my phone. CA's could have come with pin type hitch or with a snap coupler. Some Other differences from the C is that some CA's had a hand clutch. There was also one extra gear in the CA transmission. I think Larry is right on with no more than $500 for sentimental value. I know alot go for scrap prices at auction. I usually go a little above that to keep it from going to scrap. ------------- B,C,CA,(2)WC's,(4)WD's,(2) WD45'S, 45Diesel, (2)D12'S Series 2, D12 Hiclear,(2)D12 Series 3, HD3, D17NF (3)D17 Series 4 Diesels, M-100 Grader,8550,A few Lawn tractors lots of other AC stuff |
Posted By: Bill Long
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2016 at 12:02pm
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In front of the shifter lever the serial number is located. If you can get that you can refer to the serial number section of this forum for the year of the CA. Water in the oil can indicated rusted transmission or engine. I can't determine if it is a pin hitch or snap coupler from the picture. Looks like a pin hitch which means it is a earlier CA - they were made 1950 - 1957 What else shows this is a CA (1) the drawbar hitch, (2) the seat - the B-C had a Bench Seat, (3) the cultivator mounting casting, and (4) the lift arms on the back. I can't see the hand clutch lever but that should be on the right side of the driver seat. Let us know how it goes. Good Luck! Bill Long
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Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2016 at 1:04pm
| Well Josh seeing the pics. this time, don't let this little tractor get away from you if you want to have a neat hobby. It certainly wasn't beat up before it was parked, and if you're careful how you spend your money and don't have to give too much for it, you won't be badly upside down like a lot of these tractors are when finished. But that isn't the problem. You're having fun with a piece of history here and it's a great bunch of guys, young and old to associate with. Weeel. You might watch Shameless. LOL |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2016 at 1:20pm
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If the exhaust hasn't been covered, its almost sure an exhaust valve sits open and water has run into that cylinder and rusted the rings to the cylinders. Forcing an engine over in that condition often bends the connecting rod sideways (column buckling) to the I beam shape and that puts more bind on the rod insert and the piston which then breaks the rod and the remains of the rod generally pokes a new crankcase inspection hole in the side of the block. Its far better to take the head off and pull the rod, piston, and sleeve that are rusted together and work on them without pushing on the rod. There are some potions that will break the rust, Kroil being one of the best commercial products but some experiments have found a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF works better. In any case it takes some patience. Gerald J. |
Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2016 at 1:40pm
| Stand corrected Gerald. Acetone & ATF !! I really like the idea of chaining a 4X4 to the nose of the crankshaft with the acetone & ATF and a weight on the end of the 4X4. It puts a steady pressure on the crankshaft without all the stress. A concrete block works good as a weight. |
Posted By: joshdc91
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2016 at 3:19pm
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Thanks for everyones help. I'll be taking a look at it this Saturday. I'll update on Sunday or Monday with details and more pictures. Thanks!
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Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2016 at 3:36pm
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Actually though I don't know of it being tried, kerosene might be better than ATF in that brew with acetone. No doubt the acetone does a lot of dissolving rust, and maybe there's something in the ATF for that and the ATF sure supplies lubricant to keep the rust from reforming, but kerosene might be a stronger solvent and still supply a bit of lubricant. Gerald J. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2016 at 4:38pm
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It is an early CA, probably 51 or 52 model. It looks to be a pin hitch and has the early style air cleaner cup as used on the C's and early B's. A B would have a wide front end and the steering arm goes down, instead of up where it comes off the gearbox under the gas tank.
It has a hand clutch lever on your right as you sit on it, B and C never had that. As mentioned, the double boss on front(under where the rad goes) was only on a CA. Power shift wheels were never used on the B and C. I might venture to guess they hood is missing because the hole in it isn't big enough for that (wrong) muffler. It could be worth a couple hundred dollars for a parts tractor and if the rims aren't rotted out from calcium chloride that is a big cost savings for a restore project. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: redline
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2016 at 6:39pm
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Also the "clutch" handle on the right (usually) final drive, and a 4 speed trans versus a 3 speed. There are probably some other things, too. They are gutty little tractors, the governor on the engine is responsive, and the clutch gives the illusion of a live PTO. I have one with a belly mower. It is a good fit for a belly mower. ------------- If it weren't for the last minute, I wouldn't get anything done! |