3 point quick hitch ?'s
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=122601
Printed Date: 25 Apr 2025 at 2:25am Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: 3 point quick hitch ?'s
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Subject: 3 point quick hitch ?'s
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2016 at 12:44pm
I'm seriously thinking a cat 1 quick hitch would be a big help in switching equipment back and forth on my "work" tractor. Anybody use them? Any pros and cons ? This is the best deal I have found on the internet. It is $80-$90 cheaper than a Speeco from Farm and Fleet or other "farm" stores.
http://www.agrisupply.com/3-point-quick-hitch-category-1/p/65052/" rel="nofollow - http://www.agrisupply.com/3-point-quick-hitch-category-1/p/65052/
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Replies:
Posted By: Leon n/c AR.
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2016 at 1:03pm
I have thought about getting one for my Agco-Allis but locally here they are near 300.00 at TSC and small dealers. My Ford has the adj. lower links and it is easy to hook-up. My neighbor has one for his small Ford tractor and it seems to work nice but you need the adaptors for the lower pins for each piece of equipment to work best. Leon
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Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2016 at 2:01pm
Funny how easy it is to hook up to Snap-Coupler equipment without leaving the seat and yet the clumbersom 3pt became the prominent hitch that everyone uses? Now there's all kinds of attachments and add-ons to make hooking to the bastardly unyielding equipment easier to hook up to. Even Internationals "Fast hitch" was better than 3pt.
------------- If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere. Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2016 at 2:42pm
I decided if I can't pickup the implement I buy a drawbar hookup whenever I can... Them 3 point cat 2 mowers scare the crap out of me hooked up one of then too many times felt like I would get killed between the mower and the tractor. Or maybe you just need to buy one tractor for each attachment. I am trying to get more running tractors so I don't unhook so much haying.
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Posted By: victoryallis
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2016 at 2:57pm
PaulB wrote:
Funny how easy it is to hook up to Snap-Coupler equipment without leaving the seat and yet the clumbersom 3pt became the prominent hitch that everyone uses? Now there's all kinds of attachments and add-ons to make hooking to the bastardly unyielding equipment easier to hook up to. Even Internationals "Fast hitch" was better than 3pt.
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And putting the drawbar back on after using a snap coupler implement is so fun. 3pt was the right direction. Call me odd but hooking to 3 pt isn't hard.
------------- 8030 and 8050MFWD, 7580, 3 6080's, 160, 7060, 175, heirloom D17, Deere 8760
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2016 at 3:25pm
Leon n/c AR. wrote:
My neighbor has one for his small Ford tractor and it seems to work nice but you need the adaptors for the lower pins for each piece of equipment to work best. Leon |
What kind of adapters? The planter I use has pins with iron on both sides that can be left in place. The disc and plow wouldn't need the finger snapping thingys because the quick hitch can't slide off the side like the lift arms can. All top link connections would need a pin left in place. That is the only thing I see that needs changed.
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2016 at 3:32pm
Paul, I have fought just as long, if not longer, trying to hook my lift arms to the Oxnard blade than I ever did with any 3 point attachment I've used. Snapping it is a cinch, but coupling can be a pain if it doesn't happen to be setting level. The same thing goes for 3 point stuff. I have seen people struggle trying to hook the second arm up instead of adjusting the arm to line up. I like to work smarter, not harder, that's why I asked.
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Posted By: Leon n/c AR.
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2016 at 4:50pm
Charley the regular cat.1 pins on my neighbors mower have to have the adapter on each pin to fit on the quick attach, what I am trying to say is the quick attach is set up to take larger pins for 50-100 hp tractor. The picture you had of the quick attach showed the pins-20.00 per set-they go over the cat 1 pins and use a roll pin for semi-permanent installation.
Charlie the adaptors shown on the page with your hitch have to be put on over the cat1 pins on each implement using a roll pin instead of the lynch pin like you now do. The adaptors on my neighbors adapter is like cat 3 pin diameter. Leon
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Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2016 at 4:55pm
I had one for the category 2 when I was farming. I bought it used at a farm dispersal auction and sold it for almost twice what I paid for it.
As with everything else, backing up to the implement square was the secret. I used to trip the two bottom (telescopic) arms and pull them out. You have to get the top hook in before you couple the bottom arms or you will end up getting off and pulling the pin to hook the top. It's like everything else; the more you use it, the better you get at it.
It worked great for semi-mount plows (just hooking the bottom arms).
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Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2016 at 4:55pm
One thing to remember you might have to change the pto shaft to make up for the added length of the adaptor. Most of my 3 point pto shafts are pretty short anyway so you can lift them up to the level position without braking the tractor pto.
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Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2016 at 5:12pm
The boy has something similar on his bobcat. We bought a variety of equip, mower / bucket/ grapple / post hole digger /... thing I noticed is the distance between the pins on some equip is not the same ( lower two arm spread)... I have been modifying some pieces with spacers / washers on the pin mounts so you can just drive up to it and have good alignment............. and the PTO drive shaft seems to vary between equip also.. some to long / some to short. Once you get everything "SET" it sure simplifies 3 point hookup.
------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2016 at 6:02pm
The main draw back to them E-Z hitches, is that they move the implement backwards about 6", stretches drivelines, changes weight distribution...
I'd much rather have an old snap coupler drawbar, too, it's a rigid mount to the tractor, and once you figger out how to swing it between your legs, and snap it on in one try, putting the 2 pins in is a piece of cake.
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Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2016 at 6:09pm
Harry Ferguson's three point hitch put all the plow adjustments in the hitch parts. Lift bars set the left to right tilt to compensate for one side wheels in the furrow and the top link set the fore to aft tilt to set the attack angles of the plow.
His biggest sales point was that the geometry would lift the tractor rear when the plow struck a rock layer and keep the tractor from tipping when the plow stopped moving through the ground because of that obstacle. A safety feature. The Fordsons made from about 1918 into the 30s (and sold for less than 10% of the price of nearly all other tractors on the market) had a strong tendency to "climb the ring gear" when the load got to be too much. Caused by the hitch being too close to the rear axle height and not nearly enough front end weight.
In the 1970s I bought a Ford-Ferguson 8N with implements and added a three point blade for snow moving. The loader that it cam with was useless for moving snow and it was so light the even with new tires I had to make a run at a snow pile and use inertia to move snow. I broke the three point blade frame at least once that way. I tried plowing gardens with it. The three point linkage worked as Harry planned, when the plow began to pull hard the rear tires lost traction then the linkage lifted the plow to make it pull easier. Sometimes it seem like the spinning tires did more tillage than the plow and the depth of plowing was not uniform.
The three point on my MF-135 hasn't acted that way though the geometry appears to be about the same. A ton more weight on the 135 makes it a much more useful tractor in the field and in snow, though it came with a loader too heavy for it and when moving snow with the loader it only worked with tire chains. If a chain fell off (and that seemed to happen every snow) the only way to move the tractor was with the loader bucket curling. That loader is on my 4020 now and is sturdy enough to survive even digging a basement hole. The 135 pulled a Case 2x 16 plow very nicely.
Gerald J.
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Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2016 at 6:15pm
A friend who is a big ford fan has a couple of the 800 serries claims they are only good with a loader I'd you have loaded tire wheel weights and tire chains in the winter. To put the chains on I was taught jack the rear end up. Let the air out of the tires. Install the chains tight then blow up the tires. That will get chains tight and they won't come off might not be right or hard on the tires I don't know but they stay on.
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Posted By: SHAMELESS
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2016 at 6:49pm
I have always thought about getting one too, but never did...was at HF one day and they sell them, in 2 sizes, they are heavy built, don't know what brand it is tho. and are cheaper than anywhere else I've found so far!
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Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2016 at 7:31pm
SHAMELESS wrote:
I have always thought about getting one too, but never did...was at HF one day and they sell them, in 2 sizes, they are heavy built, don't know what brand it is tho. and are cheaper than anywhere else I've found so far! |
I knew HF used to have the Category 1 quick hitch, but I can't find them in their website any more.
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Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2016 at 8:40pm
CTuckerNWIL wrote:
Paul, I have fought just as long, if not longer, trying to hook my lift arms to the Oxnard blade than I ever did with any 3 point attachment I've used. Snapping it is a cinch, but coupling can be a pain if it doesn't happen to be setting level. The same thing goes for 3 point stuff. I have seen people struggle trying to hook the second arm up instead of adjusting the arm to line up. I like to work smarter, not harder, that's why I asked. |
That's why the blade has all those adjustments. Pull the pin on the horizontal stabilizer then spin the hand wheel to level the lift arms up to the links. Much easier than any piece of 3pt equipment that I've encountered. And what's so hard about hooking up a SC drawbar? With the clamp loose, just snap the eye in place then raise the bail into position and put the pins in, then tighten the clamp bolts. I could hook up any piece of Snap Coupler equipment and be working before those manhandling a mis-aligned piece of 3pt where through cussing. On top of that the adjustments where still in the same place they were the last time you used that piece, instead of having to re-adjust the tractor arms to the new job. The only thing I have that's 3pt is a sprayer and an adapter stays attached to it. I've gotten rid of every other piece of 3pt that I've ever had and don't care for anything 3pt. The Allis engineers developed one of the best ways to attach a mounted implement to a tractor. Too bad an inferior system became so popular.
------------- If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere. Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2016 at 8:40pm
Leon n/c AR. wrote:
Charley the regular cat.1 pins on my neighbors mower have to have the adapter on each pin to fit on the quick attach, what I am trying to say is the quick attach is set up to take larger pins for 50-100 hp tractor. The picture you had of the quick attach showed the pins-20.00 per set-they go over the cat 1 pins and use a roll pin for semi-permanent installation.
Charlie the adaptors shown on the page with your hitch have to be put on over the cat1 pins on each implement using a roll pin instead of the lynch pin like you now do. The adaptors on my neighbors adapter is like cat 3 pin diameter. Leon
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Well, If I buy a cat 1 I wouldn't think I would need bushing cause all my stuff is cat1. If I do need bushings, I sure as H ain't gonna pay $20 a pair for them when I have a lathe out in the shed and a buch of old pipe layin around 
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Posted By: Leon n/c AR.
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2016 at 9:51am
Cat 1 to cat 1 is what I need also but at Tractor Supply they only had cat 1 to cat 2 on imp. side Same at the tractor dealer on two brands he had. I am going to check Harbor Freight like Shameless mentioned because all I have seen locally were 250-300. Leon
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Posted By: SHAMELESS
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2016 at 3:54pm
I just went on HF web site, they have one on there and it's $99.99. I knew they still had them cuz I saw one there when I was in there last week. I read the first 10 reviews or so, and most people like them
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Posted By: victoryallis
Date Posted: 01 May 2016 at 6:30am
Folks need to look at the big picture imagine a articulated tractor with snap coupler. I bet putting the drawbar on a 7580 would be bad let alone a big Steiger. I did some differential work on my FW30 Ford this winter and had to lower the drawbar it was honestly all I could lift. The bolts that hold the hammerstrap on are 1 1/2 diameter. I didn't weigh it but betting it easy the equivalent of lift 150 lbs plus. Put it this way made the suitcase weight on the 7060 feel light.
------------- 8030 and 8050MFWD, 7580, 3 6080's, 160, 7060, 175, heirloom D17, Deere 8760
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