Exhaust manifold Bolts
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=122550
Printed Date: 15 Dec 2025 at 7:28pm
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Topic: Exhaust manifold Bolts
Posted By: Jim-Ohio
Subject: Exhaust manifold Bolts
Date Posted: 28 Apr 2016 at 10:20am
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What is the best method to use to get the exhaust manifold nuts loose from the studs without twisting off the studs on a 1961 D17? ------------- '61D17, '51WD, '51CA, '41C, '49C, Woods 5'&6'Mower, 6'Blade, CA-Plow, CA-Cultivator, 3-Btm snap-coupler plow, 4-row planter, WD 4-row cultivator, 80R mower,#7 mower,B/C mower |
Replies:
Posted By: jwise87
Date Posted: 28 Apr 2016 at 10:33am
| Heating them with a torch, working them back and forth once they do begin to move, daily treatments of your favorite penetrating oil for a while before you try. Depending on your luck you may end up just buying some $14 a pop studs like I had to. |
Posted By: Gary Burnett
Date Posted: 28 Apr 2016 at 10:42am
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And use brass nuts when you put the manifold back on the tractor. |
Posted By: jwise87
Date Posted: 28 Apr 2016 at 11:22am
| When I tried to buy brass nuts from my Agco dealer the part number they list is no longer made of brass so if you want brass you will probably have to get them from somewhere else. Unless your dealer has some old stock. |
Posted By: john(MI)
Date Posted: 28 Apr 2016 at 11:48am
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Heat them cherry red and then toss water on them. ------------- D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446 |
Posted By: littlemarv
Date Posted: 28 Apr 2016 at 2:34pm
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What's the reasoning behind the brass nuts anyways? ------------- The mechanic always wins. B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H |
Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 28 Apr 2016 at 2:42pm
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They don't corrode so thus easier to remove down the road. ------------- 1957 WD45 dad's first AC 1968 one-seventy 1956 F40 Ferguson |
Posted By: Chad (MN)
Date Posted: 28 Apr 2016 at 2:43pm
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Brass nuts won't "weld" themselves to the studs like steel nuts will do sometimes. Plus, brass will stay tight since they sort of stretch when you tighten them. This is handy when there isn't much thread left on the studs as they stick through the manifold and you can't use steel lock nuts, etc. ------------- 220 3-190XT 2-D19d D19g 5-D17 UC 3-WC 2-WD 3-WD45 CA C H3 7-AllCrops 14-plows 3-Gleaners Lawnmowers SC-equipment |
Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 28 Apr 2016 at 3:09pm
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Jim, Sounds like good plans listed above. Don't be surprised if you don't have to get new studs. I replaced all of the studs on both the WD's (of course 8-10 years older than your 17). But when I did get the manifold off several had broken, several were rusted very thin. At least one broke at the head and needed drilled out. If you think you might have to replace them anyway, then it might be better / easier to cut/grind the old nuts off and remove the manifold. Then you might be able to back the studs out of the block with vise grips, heat and blaster soak. I was very pleased to get the new set of studs in place. I did use brass nuts also. Regards, Chris ------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 28 Apr 2016 at 3:10pm
| I recently bought a stud set from DJ's tractor's and it came with a brass nut set. |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 28 Apr 2016 at 5:51pm
| I grind old rusty ones down to the threads and they will normally turn off. If not I grind the opposite side. |
Posted By: JimD
Date Posted: 28 Apr 2016 at 6:34pm
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Been selling these kits for 15 years: http://oktractor.com/zen/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=studkit" rel="nofollow - http://oktractor.com/zen/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=studkit ------------- Owner of http://www.OKtractor.com" rel="nofollow - OKtractor.com PM for an instant response on parts. Open M-F 9-6 Central. We have new and used parts. 877-378-6543 |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 28 Apr 2016 at 6:37pm
| Take a bees wax candle, and apply to the heated nut, at the stud, let the wax wick in. Then I normally use a 1/4 inch snap on impact gun, just tapping the trigger forward, then backward. Once it moves just a little, I generally switch to a hand breaker bar, and some Kroil, to lube for removal. Sometimes you have to use the next smaller size socket, either in metric, or a salvage socket that you hammer on, if the rust has eaten away too much of a steel nut, or a nut that has been rounded... |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 28 Apr 2016 at 9:58pm
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Take cutting torch and cut one side of nut to the threads, then screw it off. If you use brass nuts and they seize on, which they will in time, you will be out of luck cutting them off with torch. Just use a good steel nut with antiseze
. MACK
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Posted By: BrianC
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2016 at 6:32am
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For exhaust nuts and studs, which anti-seize should be used on a cast iron head? Did the factory use anything at all? Has anyone been using anti-seize (which type) long enough to confirm it works in the long run? Never use stainless steel hardware, right? |
Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2016 at 7:22am
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I've had a stainless nut sieze to a bolt immediately just by wrenching it on. More than once. Yup. No stainless. When I do use stainless now I use an anti sieze paste. With or without anti sieze, I won't use stainless in an application where it will get hot. |
Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2016 at 7:22am
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In most cases since I've been working in the Automotive field, any type of manifold that has studs/nuts holding it on for loooong periods of time, are just waiting for you to mess wit' em', and its "watch me break off" time. Sometimes, you can get lucky by heating them cherry red and slowly cranking the nuts off. Some that are out in the open and have a little more room around them so you can get a cutting wheel on the nut, you can slice the nut and get the nut off. The problem that seems to exsist in most cases, is once you pain staking take the time to do all of this, once the manifold is slid off, the studs are rotted out or hour glass shaped anyway and they're pretty much wasted for reusing. The good part of that is in most cases, if you snap a Vise Grips on the stud close the cylinder head, the stud will come out. Sometimes a little heat is needed for the stubborn ones, but they do eventually come out okay. Chase the threads with a tap, and yer' good ta' go. We sell a stud kit also with brass nuts and load washers for a little more "push" once the manifold is re-installed. I always use the silver Antiseize on the stud portion that goes in the head, install the manifold and then snug things up. ------------- 39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife |
Posted By: 7060
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2016 at 12:58pm
| When trying to remove a rusted nut or even bolt I usually heat it up cherry red and let it cool down all the way on its own, then tap on it lightly and heat it up again and try to take it loose. The expansion and contraction from heating and cooling slowly seems to bust the rust loose better I've found. I use this method a lot on big bolts on dozers. I had some seized trunion bolts. I tryed a 3/4" breaker bar and cheater pipe and couldn't get them loose on an old D7 so I heated the bolt heads up cherry red and let them cool off over night. They came right out the next morning with some tapping from a 4lb hammer. Just don't reheat the bolt head since it will expand it, but a nut it won't hurt to heat a little, but too much heat and you will ruin the stud threads if it comes off hard. |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2016 at 6:09pm
You don't need to get it to cherry red, just a little heat, from a propane torch, to get it to about 300ºF, then do the beeswax trick. Don't know how many times I have had observers say "That'll never work". How come I still get the job done, when other's fail?
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