Farm Equipment - D-17 Diesel Series 1 Oil Change ??

D-17 Diesel Series 1 Oil Change ??

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=122452
Printed Date: 22 Sep 2025 at 4:31pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com

Topic: D-17 Diesel Series 1 Oil Change ??

Posted By: FxFerry
Subject: D-17 Diesel Series 1 Oil Change ??
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2016 at 10:44am

Need help from the Pros.

Changing oil and canister filter on the diesel, removed canister housing, and cleaned all interior surfaces of canister and support housing. Replaced with new flat gasket in support, reassembled the housing, new NAPA canister filter, spring and center retaining column bolt, centered them on the gasket and while holding down gave a 1/2 turn of housing on gasket before tightening down. Secured the assembly and cranked engine over, and noticed immediate oil leak at housing/support base juncture.

Pulled everything apart, checked flat gasket, no cuts or tear. Carefully put everything back together and cranked over, same leak.

Pulled apart again, cleaned all pieces and this time used the old flat gasket, as it was in good shape, and still flexible, and hadn't leaked. Reassembled, and same leak noted with engine cranking before start up.

What have I missed, this isn't my first rodeo, but this horse has my name.

Fx

Replies:

Posted By: JayD-17(NY)
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2016 at 9:03pm

This is just one of those things where it's difficult to give any helpful advice without being there and seeing what's going on in person.

Having a Ser. II diesel myself, all I can tell you is it just may be a matter of trial and error, then try try again. I've had times when it took me 3 or 4 tries to get a leak stopped after changing the oil filter. The fuel filters aren't much more forgiving either; that's why you see so many of the early diesels converted to all spin-on, or even clip-on types.

I know that canister housing has to come down just so and lay about perfect on top the flat gasket in the base. The base opening is bigger by a good bit more than the canister itself. Try to get it in the base as evenly as possible all way round. All it takes is to be off a little to encourage a leak.

Try not to spin the canister down into the base either, that might move or crimp the flat gasket. I know its a pain because it's bolt is spring loaded; but try to hold the canister all the way down into the base, again, as evenly as possible, then slowly tighten the bolt down with your other hand, just enough so it holds the canister down so you can release your other hand. Double check how it looks sitting in the base on top the gasket. If all looks well and even - Then go get a good crescent wrench and finish tightening up the bolt, while holding on to the canister real good. Again, don't let it spin on the base.

So, that's how I've always had to do it, and some years it still took me a few tries....after walking away from it for a few hours!

If persistence doesn't pay off, you may want to take that canister back off and set it on the the most flat, smoothest surface you can think of and make sure it doesn't looked damaged or out of shape in any way.

Posted By: FxFerry
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2016 at 5:34am

JayD-17

Thanks for the response, you were correct in "patience". Went back to it this afternoon, repeated complete process, and carefully pushed the canister down, without twisting and secured it. During this process I spoke an incantation in Gaelic of what life after would be for uncooperative equipment. I now have a dry filter seal.

The two fuel filters are next, thanks for the warning.

Fx

Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2016 at 9:18am

The canister filter cover isn't exactly self centering, that centering is part of the skill required for successful installation. The canister can easily be out of the divot and catch on the casting and not seal.

Gerald J.