190xt dying
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=119448
Printed Date: 02 May 2025 at 8:27am
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Topic: 190xt dying
Posted By: jdodds79
Subject: 190xt dying
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2016 at 5:36pm
| Ive got a 1969 190xt. It takes a couple minutes of cranking to get it atarted, everytime you start it. Now it will run for a bit, then just suddenly die. Sometimes it will only run for a few minutes, other times a half hour or so. It stutters for about 2 seconds then off. Seems to me to be losing prime in the fuel system. Ive tightened every fitting on it. Bte it also has an aftermarket electric fuel pump right before the fuel filter. Thank you in advance. |
Replies:
Posted By: nevans
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2016 at 5:41pm
| check the electric pump and make sure your getting a full stream of fuel might have some thing in the tank that is sucking over the settling bowls and could be a bad pump even if it sounds like its pumping and make sure your return lines to the tank and the pump are clean NIEL |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2016 at 7:16pm
| That electric fuel pump trick was prolly a farmer cure for what's really wrong with it, lift pump, in the injector pump, is losing the carbon vanes, and clogging the works up, would be my guess... |
Posted By: jdodds79
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2016 at 7:32pm
| So the lift pump is in the injector pump? |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2016 at 8:24pm
|
Carbon blades? Not on any 190's.
------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
DiyDave wrote:Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2016 at 8:36pm
| well...there's always the governor ring falling apart and plugging the fitting thing. |
Posted By: mark-east-tn
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2016 at 9:13pm
| Check your fuel source from tank, Ive had a 190 clog up at both sediment bowls on each side of tank and cause it to do similar thing. |
Posted By: SHAMELESS
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2016 at 9:32pm
| a lot of times, if the electric pump isn't run for awhile, they dry out inside and won't pump up pressure, have had that several times! |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2016 at 9:58pm
| Loosen timing window to where fuel leaks out then try it. If it runs ok then, weight retainer has come apart, pluging return fitting. MACK |
Posted By: jdodds79
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2016 at 10:00pm
| The electric pump spits fuel, it is quite a bit of fuel but not a steady stream. |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2016 at 4:48am
My bad, was thinking it was a D-19...
|
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2016 at 6:42am
|
usually when they get junk in the tank, it comes from the pump flex ring coming apart in the first place. That's why I don't like knocking the return ball out and considering it repaired lol! ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: ac fleet
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2016 at 2:53pm
|
My 190 does the same thing,--- but I think it might be two things causing the problem,--- 1 is crap in the fuel tank and 2 the governor surges BAD unless you pull the tractor HARD, then it runs smooth,--- ( until tank clogs!---might be 5 mins. or an hour!)---cant get the tank off to clean it without getting rid of the cab and fenders, from what I can find out. Its a good tractor, but not a trustworthy one! As far as primer pump, Khuns ( ac dealer) wanted $ 185. for a new one, so I went down the street 2 blocks to napa and got an electric pump for $ 50. and put it in place of the hand primer pump that was leaking BAD.---fuel is supplied to transfer pump under pressure and it runs good until tank plugs again. May not be acceptable fix to CORRECT POLICE, but its MY tractor and I have to do the lesser cost of fix to get things going! thanks; ac fleet |
Posted By: jdodds79
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2016 at 2:56pm
| This may be a dumb question, but should the valve on the sediment bowl be screwed in or out to run? |
Posted By: ac fleet
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2016 at 3:02pm
| Out to turn fuel on ---IN to turn fuel off. thanks; ac fleet |
Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2016 at 7:01pm
| Make sure you clean both sediment bowls while your at it. The first couple times mine quit I cleaned the right side bowl but didn't know about the left one. |
Posted By: jdodds79
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2016 at 4:03pm
| Ok guys im getting good fuel to the injector pump. But still dying at different lengths on time. Im lost |
Posted By: ac fleet
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2016 at 4:27pm
| Are you trying to run it on BIO CRAP for fuel?---If so you have probably messed up the injection pump, I have 4 tractors that has had this happen for me ---loosen the fuel lines and see if fuel is even getting to the injectors.---could even be the injectors gummed up from the use of BIO CRAP.---these old tractors were made to run on REAL diesel fuel. thanks; ac fleet |
Posted By: jdodds79
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2016 at 4:30pm
| Loosen the actual injector itself? It will idle forever and not die. But when you're driving it will randomly die, then take a couple minutes of cranking to get it back started. |
Posted By: ac fleet
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2016 at 4:43pm
| NOT the injector itself, but the line from the injection pump to the injector. you will reach a point that it will die and NOT re-start.---at least mine did! thanks; ac fleet |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2016 at 4:56pm
|
the return line is plugged up with broken flex ring material, it will look like coffee grounds. Leave the timing window loose on the side of pump, and see if it continues to run without losing power and dying off. Put a bucket under it. This is a very common issue. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: jdodds79
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2016 at 5:12pm
| So how do i go about getting that crap out of the return line? Take it off and clean it? |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2016 at 9:00pm
| The pump has to come off and sent to a pump station. They will clean out by replacing what is plugged and replace what is coming apart in pump. MACK |
Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2016 at 9:19pm
Yep, time to get the pump rebuilt. Very common with Roosa Masters. ------------- '49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080 |
Posted By: jdodds79
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2016 at 3:08pm
| The injector pump has to come off and sent in? |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2016 at 4:41pm
|
Yes. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: jdodds79
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2016 at 6:24pm
| Does this pump have a certain way it has to be taken off? Like a timing mark or anything? |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2016 at 10:11pm
| YES!!! Take timing window off pump and turn engine till two lines match up.At that point the balancers timing mark should be in line with the pointer.Don't know the # degrees for your engine but Ed will know. FYI The pointer on my 220(426) is kinda lame.Your 301 may be the same.If your outer ring has slipped it won't show what it should. |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 05 Mar 2016 at 7:15am
|
A 190XT timing will vary by pump model number, but most are either 24* or 26*. Line the marks in the pump up(small rectangular cover next to name tag with 2 slotted screws holding it). One of the marks will be there already, the front piece will rotate with the engine, and turn the engine until that mark lines up with the stationary mark. Your pump rebuilder will be able to give you the timing spec for your particular pump. You can also scribe a line on the pump mounting flange, and engine. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: ac fleet
Date Posted: 05 Mar 2016 at 3:22pm
| The pump is a bear to take off and a double bear to put back on and get to work, (timed correctly) ,so I would strongly suggest that you send the tractor down the road before it blows up completely and you end up with selling a non-runner, (junk price) tractor! thanks; ac fleet |
Posted By: Justthemechanic190
Date Posted: 05 Mar 2016 at 10:52pm
| we just did the pump an injectors on our 190 an it was the easiest pump I've ever had to work with. and you can pull the tank without pulling the cab. its not a bad job at all. |
Posted By: jdodds79
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2016 at 9:14am
| What's a decent price on having this pump gone through? |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2016 at 10:35am
|
In my shop, it can range from 500 to 700 range. Some can be done for less if no updating is wanted, or some can be more if it's been neglected way too long. These are very typical price ranges though. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |