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D-17 money pit,specifically question on the head/

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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=117959
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Topic: D-17 money pit,specifically question on the head/
Posted By: jwise87
Subject: D-17 money pit,specifically question on the head/
Date Posted: 23 Jan 2016 at 3:12pm
I bought a series one d-17 for 1500 that was rough. I knew it was rough, but it was rougher than I thought and I am dumping more money than I want to into it. I sent the head off and they called me back and quoted me like $650 to fix this thing. My dad dug another head out of the shed but I think it is off of a WD, is that going to be a problem? Oh, and the motor in the tractor is out of an E gleaner.



Replies:
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 23 Jan 2016 at 3:23pm
yeesh 650 !!??? I've bought whole RUNNING tractors for less....I know I'm 'out of the loop' as to prices but just what do they do for that pile of coins?

Jay



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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water


Posted By: dawntreader74
Date Posted: 23 Jan 2016 at 4:42pm
i took a wd- head in one time it needed one valve seat repaired. an cleaned up' they called me to come pick it up' 523oo i told them to keep it an they needed hand cuffs. later on i talked to a guy that bought it for 150oo you haft to watch some of them peopleSmile


Posted By: jwise87
Date Posted: 23 Jan 2016 at 4:46pm
They didn't give me the breakdown but they wanted to plain (plane?) it, fix the exhaust where it meets the manifold, replace the valves and springs, and fix the valve guides which this guy acted like was a big deal but if I'm not mistaken they just press out. I think what I am going to end up doing if this other head I have doesn't work out is to have him plain the head and send it back to me. I found a valve set from one of the suppliers on here for less than $200 and the manifold part doesn't bother me because my dad had these nifty little tubes machined out for my grandpa's old d-17 that press right into the manifold and the head, voila no more exhaust leak. 


Posted By: dawntreader74
Date Posted: 23 Jan 2016 at 4:57pm
check on hear for a few days someone has a head that just needs a clean up job' for around 150 or 200 can't be much more then that. 


Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 23 Jan 2016 at 6:05pm
Valve guides often have to reamed to clear the valve stems after being pressed in. And often don't have a stop shoulder so the insertion has to be measured and adjusted carefully.

Gerald J.


Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 23 Jan 2016 at 8:17pm
I believe the WD (201) head was a 3" head and the WD-45 and later had a 4" head.


Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 23 Jan 2016 at 9:25pm
The 45 head will work, but will have to drill the 3 3/8 holes out for 7/16 bolts.
 200 is too much for a valve seat.
Some of these shops think that old head is off a 2016 Mersaties.   MACK


Posted By: 75aztec
Date Posted: 23 Jan 2016 at 10:42pm
I just had my D17 head done. Machined, old manifold bolts removed, all new valves kit, and seats ground, and new guides ran $345.


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 24 Jan 2016 at 9:54am
I dont care what you do anymore in any hobby or just livin', its expensive! Good to shop around for the work! These are only money pits if your not going to do something with it. Work or show? If its just going to set there and not be enjoyed or worked then You might want to find a different tractor? I am sure you can buy very good refurbished tractors much cheaper than you can build them your self!
I have a Ford Jubilee that I paid good money for. The guy that reworked it had receipts for $7000. I paid a little more than half that for it, but it has been a good fun tractor to own and work.
Some of the Allis' that I drug home were family tractors and project tractors that I have way more money in than they are worth.
I would do it all again! :)

Good luck with your tractor!
Regards,
 Chris



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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.


Posted By: shane w masters
Date Posted: 24 Jan 2016 at 10:18am
just put one back together polished and shaved with new rocker springs and valves seats and guides for 1000.00


Posted By: Acdiesel
Date Posted: 24 Jan 2016 at 7:59pm
I have a D17 series 1 head for sale 150 + ride. head is complete.

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D19 Diesel,D17 Diesel SER.3
2-D14, 2-D15 SER.II WF/NF
D15 SER.2 DIESEL
D12 SER.I, D10 Ser.II
2-720'S D21 Ser. II

Gmc,caterpillar
I'm a pharmacist (farm assist) with a PHD (post hole digger)


Posted By: jwise87
Date Posted: 25 Jan 2016 at 7:01am
Thanks for the info Gerald J. I am ordering a valve set today and calling the machine shop to tell them to plane it and send er on back. My dad has enough of a machine shop set up to  press in some guides and ream them out. So, that is the route I am going. Thanks for the advice. I will post some pics when I get this thing done.


Posted By: Lon(MN)
Date Posted: 27 Jan 2016 at 6:30pm
Some of the E heads have different valves than a D17. 30 verses 45 degree angle on the valve. 


Posted By: jwise87
Date Posted: 28 Jan 2016 at 5:56am
Yikes. I hope that isn't the case with mine. I already ordered the valves and I know they are the 45s.


Posted By: jwise87
Date Posted: 31 Jan 2016 at 3:46pm
Got the head back and installed the new guides with a brass drift and put the new valves in. Hopefully get it fired up this week.


Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 31 Jan 2016 at 4:51pm
Just putting in new guides and valves, doesn't make a good head. The seats at least should be ground and at minimum lap the new valves in to the seat or you'll be back doing it over in a couple years and won't know why your head needs reworked again.
 Old worn seats won't match the new valve worth a pi$$ and will leak, eventually burning a valve.


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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: jwise87
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2016 at 4:39pm
In my excitement to get the head together I did forget to lap the valves. The machine shop said that the seats look fine so since I still had the manifold off I filled the intake and exhaust ports with wd-40 and let them sit for 24 hours. They didn't leak down so I assume the seal will be good enough for the girls I go with. Thanks for the heads up about that though.


Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2016 at 7:33am
I hate to be the one to say it but I don't think WD-40 seeping through valve is even close to air leaking through when under pressure. Do you want to take the chance that it's ok?


Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2016 at 9:05am
I'm with Dave on this, hope you don't burn a valve or seat early. I will not put new valves in without a good lapping. I have found new valves to be off right out of the box and then getting a old seat and valve to mach might be tough and lapping will tell the story. I hope it's going to be OK. 

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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.



Posted By: jwise87
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2016 at 10:51am
Fingers crossed then.


Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2016 at 11:44am
Since it is already apart, I would go back and do it right.  I hate having to take everything apart down the road (especially after it caused more damage).  Crossing fingers on engine work is not the right attitude for me.  Just my 2 cents.

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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080


Posted By: jwise87
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2016 at 12:38pm
There are no sure bets in mechanic work. Even when the book is followed to the letter there is always some finger crossing when you fire it up for the first time. I'm not building a pulling tractor just a light duty farm tractor. The fact that the wd-40 that is designed to seep through the smallest of cracks hasn't leaked out is enough for me to sleep well at night.


Posted By: JimD
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2016 at 12:48pm
WD40 is designed to displace water. It is not a penetrant.  You equipment, your money.  But you do need to know that WD40 is not designed to seep through the smallest of crack, and is a LOT thicker than air.

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We have new and used parts. 877-378-6543



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