WD Engine only turns quarter turn
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=116507
Printed Date: 20 Aug 2025 at 12:51am
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Topic: WD Engine only turns quarter turn
Posted By: Railroader Tom
Subject: WD Engine only turns quarter turn
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2015 at 7:19pm
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Somebody give me some ideas. Drug in WD, crank will only turn one quarter turn back and forth, checked rocker arms and top of valves everything looks good. Didn't have time to look any farther, interested if anybody has any ideas? Pull head or pan next? Thanks
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Replies:
Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2015 at 7:49pm
most likely rust in sleeves not letting pistons move. i would pull head before pan. or soak with diesel for a week or so and try turning a bit at a time
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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Posted By: TractorTechLuke
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2015 at 8:34pm
If the motor is just stuck with rust, pout you some brake fluid on each piston, jack up the rear end, put it in high gear and every time you walk by the tractor rock the wheel. It will eventually beak loose.
-Luke
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Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2015 at 9:12pm
If its a rusty cylinder forcing it to turn, even with rust softeners in the cylinder can put more force on the piston than the piston rod can take and cause it to bend sideways and that puts more friction load on the rod bearing and piston and piston pin and then while running that rod can bend more and break and the remains often add a new crankcase inspection hole in the block.
Its better to not force stuck pistons up.
Gerald J.
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Posted By: j.w.freck
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2015 at 11:07pm
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pull the plugs and find out which cylinder is full of water.....
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Posted By: Railroader Tom
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2015 at 6:13am
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Don't think it's rust or watergot plugs out. Man that had it had been trying to sell it for awhile. Said it was running and back fired and that was it. He turned with crank till stopped I was able to turn back a quarter. It's coming up on fire for number two. Think I will stick wire in and see where pistons are before going any farther
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Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2015 at 6:51am
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Starter nose broken or governor weights exploded??
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Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2015 at 7:19am
Well no one has picked broken or bent rod so that's my guess. No wait it's a broken crank. Got to be a broken crank. If it happened when it backfired it could be one or the other. Drop the pan and look.
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1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy
1956 F40 Ferguson
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Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2015 at 8:43am
Yep go slow and dont force it. I had one i drug home that engine was stuck from water. Got the pistons out and then the crank would only turn over 360 degrees and stop dead.
Could turn it back 360 degrees and dead stop. Had two broken teeth off the governor gear lodged in the cam gear. Didn't know until I pulled the timing cover.
Take some pictures as you pull it apart. May help someone else too.
Regards,
Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2015 at 9:58am
Fact is on this forum most often a stuck engine is from water rusting a cylinder. In this case the broken rod, timing gear, tooth, or crankshaft is more likely. A Tecumseh lawn mower engine did the broken rod for my dad and cracked the block behind the starter on a Snapper Comet. The Tecumseh on my JD112 did the broken rod bit, but didn't appear to break the block. It has a rope start Briggs now as does the Snapper. Back to the WD, its not beyond possibility to be in the distributor or the starter drive or a broken piece of clutch plate or clutch pressure plate assembly. Its going to require a thorough part inspection to be sure of the cause of the problem, and that means opening the engine up, timing cover off to inspect gears, oil pan off to inspect crank and rods, head off to inspect the top ends of the cylinders, engine out to inspect the clutch parts if they can't be seen well through some inspection cover.
Gerald J.
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Posted By: Railroader Tom
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2015 at 2:05pm
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Not sure why I couldnt back the engine up, but got head off. Valve seat came apart piece kind of made dipple on edge of top of piston. If I pull piston and clean spot I think it will be alright afraid if I dont will scare sleeve. Thanks for all the advice you can never learn enough from what other people have already dealt with.
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Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2015 at 3:41pm
Good work finding the problem. Sounds like that piston needs to come out. And then some head work?
Regards,
Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2015 at 9:43pm
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If it was material on top of piston it should turn at least 3/4 turn. MACK
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Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2015 at 10:15pm
Enough stuff on top the cylinder to leave a mark could have easily bent or broken the connecting rod. Time to drop the oil pan and evaluate the lower end damage.
Gerald J.
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Posted By: Railroader Tom
Date Posted: 24 Dec 2015 at 6:14am
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Yes the piston has to come out so I can clean it up and check rod. I will be surprised if rod isn't bent.
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Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 24 Dec 2015 at 6:16am
Take the rod to a good engine machine shop and have them check it.
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