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Rear main seals

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=116505
Printed Date: 26 Dec 2025 at 2:17pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Rear main seals
Posted By: Don(MO)
Subject: Rear main seals
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2015 at 6:07pm
This is why I say to glue the rear main seals in, I know a lot you guys don't and have got away with it, I'm just saying it might spin at sometime and the oil will start coming out behind the flywheel cover on a WD/WD45.





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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.




Replies:
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2015 at 6:52pm
Clocking them off from the parting line is an old trick to keep them from leaking (as much lol!)

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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!


Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2015 at 8:10pm
If you are referring to the discussion on the felt rear seals on the B, C, and CA's it is apples and oranges.  The B's are one piece retainers and the seal is one felt ring that fits tight in the retainer and has to be packed in.

 


Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2015 at 9:03pm
ED you are right about some seals where installed offset but I was trying to show the seal as been pulled apart and it now now a three piece seal and the center part has spun to a diff angle in the main cap and top seal holder.
Sorry Dick I missed that post on the B/C/CA rear main seal, I was just showing this seal that was in a WD and you are spot on they are not the same type of seal. 

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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.



Posted By: DanD
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2015 at 11:24pm
And here's the stuff you need to glue them in.  We used the glue on our D17's. http://www.toolfetch.com/3m-industrial-021200-19718-3m-scotch-grip-rubber-gasket-adhesive-847-5oz.html?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=405-021200-19718" rel="nofollow - http://www.toolfetch.com/3m-industrial-021200-19718-3m-scotch-grip-rubber-gasket-adhesive-847-5oz.html?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=405-021200-19718


Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2015 at 6:57am
So you're saying to glue the felt seal into it's grove? Putting my 45 back together in about a month and trying to make sure I get it right. already watched Don's pan gasket video.


Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2015 at 7:07am
When I was at the Allis dealer we always glued them in. I've always done that on my own projects too. They'll also seize to the crank if you forget to oil them. So let the glue cure first then oil the seal before assembly.

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Wink
I am a Russian Bot


Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2015 at 7:32am
would never have thought of that. Good to know. Thanks guys.


Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2015 at 10:08am
HOW do I REMEMBER that !?!?  I guess I'll have to write it down somewheres....

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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 23 Dec 2015 at 11:09pm
Well....Dad(who knew all this stuff) was long gone when I rebuilt my 45 so my felts are NOT glued! So far so good(5yrs).Don't see the point in redoing it right just for the sake of it so I'll wait till they slip and leak! LOL



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