$950 for a JD 3010???
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=113514
Printed Date: 10 Sep 2025 at 4:19pm
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Topic: $950 for a JD 3010???
Posted By: CrestonM
Subject: $950 for a JD 3010???
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2015 at 5:00pm
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Can I go wrong with a John Deere 3010 for $950? http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/grd/5275095132.html" rel="nofollow - http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/grd/5275095132.html What are the cons of the 3010's? I know they say the --10 series isn't as good as the --20 series.
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Replies:
Posted By: Dmpaul89
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2015 at 5:05pm
| It has to have a trashed motor. to be that cheap. Trust me, whoever that has it sitting on that trailer, has bought it and is trying to resell. he knows what he has. |
Posted By: Gary(WI)
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2015 at 5:08pm
| That is a wheatland also has the big fenders and fixed front end Pick it up I will give you 1500 if you deliver it to Wisconsin Gary |
Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2015 at 5:35pm
| Well I would find a motor overhaul kit first and figure out what it will cost to fix it. Anytime I order JD parts for my mower I think I should just scrap it because their parts are so expensive. But that is just my take some people love JD and are willing to pay the higher parts price. |
Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2015 at 5:54pm
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Does it have 3pt? Does it have a PTO? It hasn't run in years. You might be able to restore the engine for between $1000 and $2000, but do you know if the transmission is any good? Rear tires are shot. I'd say it's worth scrap value, but little more. |
Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2015 at 5:55pm
Everyone is making valid points....I'm not a green guy anyhow! I'll stick with the 8N and the A-C's!!  Besides...They all run great and are paid for!!
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Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2015 at 7:18pm
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The 3010 PTO is easily broken. That price is really low perhaps hinting its ready to be parted out or scrapped. The engine has an auxiliary counterbalance shaft that can be a bit troublesome. The 3020 PTO is much harder to break. Gerald J. |
Posted By: Richardmo
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2015 at 7:37pm
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That tractor will not last long on there at that price running or not. Went to the sale in Bartlesville OK. Scrap at $30.00 ton made for cheap parts tractors except some of the John Deere tractors and few others. There was about 3 Unstyled or 1 styled Allis WC went for about $100.00 The WF Unstyled 1550.00 Bought 5 tractor myself and some good sheet metal and pick up a duel fuel Carb for a WD 45 tractor. One thing about some of these tractor was being from Ok. were rougher than usual. |
Posted By: matador
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2015 at 9:51pm
| The 3010s were very problamatic with the PTO. Still, for $950, you could probably part it out for more. The sheet metal is straight. But, I'd be weary of major engine issues- it was sitting for a long time and loaded onto a trailer for photos? That was someone's project. |
Posted By: VAfarmboy
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2015 at 3:36am
It is basically the same tractor as the 3020 but the 3020 has more horsepower. The 3010 was 60 PTO HP, 3020 was 71 PTO HP, but IMO the biggest advantage of the 3020 over the 3010 is the differential lock that the 3010 does not have. The 3020 had an optional 8 speed powershift, all 3010s are Synchro Range which IMO works fine and was probably a better transmission than any other manufacturer had in the 1960s. Also, on the 3020 all oil lines are one size larger, and the pto is improved. The 3010 had a bolt on pto stub that was easy to change but prone to breakage, the 3020 has pto stub that you insert into the transmission that is hard to break but it a PITA to change without oil going everywhere unless you park her nose down on a steep hill to swap stubs. The hyd pump on the 3020 is improved (many 3010's have been updated) the 3020 also used a better coupler between the engine and hyd pump (you can switch a 3010 over to the 3020 style coupler) the 3020 also has an engine oil cooler the 3010 does not. They both used the same engine block and most 3010s have probably been overhauled with a 3020 piston/sleeve kit by now since they are all over 50 years old. The 3010 and early 3020 (before 1968 I think) used the big fuel injectors that are expensive to have rebuilt. They also had they hydraulic levers to the left of the steering wheel. On the late 3020s they used pencil injectors, and the hydraulic levers were moved over to the right of the seat like modern tractors. I ran them both back in the day and we still have a late 3020 on the farm. They both will do about the same amount of work in the same amount of time. I just remember the time I mired one axle of a 3010 and went to mash the differential lock with the heel of my boot (and it wasn't there) and I got stuck! Last but not least, an Allis Chalmers 185 has way better hydraulics than any 3010 or 3020, but the 185 was introduced about the time Deere put the old 3020 out to pasture. I don't think you would go wrong buying a 3010 for $950. |
CrestonM wrote:Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2015 at 11:58am
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For the 3010 and 4010 bolt on PTO stub its critical to keep the bolts tight. When they work loose the stub wobbles and can let the speed shift rod in the center put the PTO out of gear. Then when shifting the stub one has a deep hole to let the shift rod stay out and the other pushes the shift rod in. Its important to push the shift rod in by hand while turning the PTO by hand so the sliding gears can engage. If you force the shift rod in with the bolts you break parts deep in the transmission. The 3010 and early (pre side console) 3020 probably use the same shop manual like the 4010 and early 4020. They changed so much in the late 3020 and 4020 that the shop manuals are different as well as the parts books. I know in the early 4020 that there were three major variations changing things like the air cleaner and the wiring harnesses. The late 4020 and 3020 blocks no longer include the sleeve weep holes or the crankcase ventilation pump. The late diesel blocks are a bit shorter so the piston tops are a bit lower and while the pistons and rods from the late diesels go in the early diesels just fine the compression is low and with the late parts they start poorly. The hydraulics are very much different between the two ages of 3020 and 4020 so much that no parts interchange. 3010, 3020, 4010 and early 4020 suffer from loss of hydraulics when the clutch is pushed because of a worn check valve deep in the synchro range transmission. The later tractors do that much less because of the new check valve location. I have a web page on that at: http://www.geraldj.networkiowa.com/4020si.htm" rel="nofollow - http://www.geraldj.networkiowa.com/4020si.htm that also includes some of the service bulletins about the different block heights. There is usually a considerable premium for xx20 over xx10 and more for side console (beginning 1969 models) xx20. Gerald J. |
Posted By: Dgrader
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2015 at 6:33pm
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We had a 3010. It was a piece of crap. 950 is still to high for one. IMO. ------------- Ya cain't fix stupid. |
Posted By: SHAMELESS
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2015 at 6:40pm
| dad had a 3020, it wasn't no better, was a POS from day one! |
Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2015 at 8:03pm
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You get that fine ungrounded 24 volt generator and 24 volt system with all John Deere of that era. Go ahead and buy the 3010. Just don't expect a lot of quick answers to your electrical questions. |
Posted By: Richardmo
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2015 at 8:04pm
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Looks like it is already off Craiglist. Some times things are worth more than scrap, try buying a part for a 3010 tractor from a parts yard see how long it takes to get $950.00. |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2015 at 9:15pm
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The 24 volt system was only used on diesels. Gas and LP were 12 volts, positive ground. The 24 volt system avoided starter and generator grounding problems but all the 12 volt loads like lights and gauges did work to ground which was the junction between the two 12 volt batteries. Other than being 12/24 volts it wasn't a lot different than Edison's DC power system used in the 1880s. Without Edison's center tapped generator on these tractors its important that the +12 and -12 volt loads be equal (lights, gauges, radio, planter monitor) to charge the batteries equally. While there were no intentional grounds in the generator and starter, its known that the lower brush dust can cause a ground of the lower power post in the starter if not cleaned occasionally. Gerald J. |
Posted By: VAfarmboy
Date Posted: 21 Oct 2015 at 12:57am
We have one of the last 3020s John Deere made, bought new in 1972 after the 30 series had come out, and it loses hydraulic pressure when you push the clutch in and it has always been that way ever since it was new. I don't notice it much as far as picking up implements and such, but honestly it is a joke with the 148 loader we have. You have to put the tractor In park and let off the clutch to get the loader to lift anything. We were told that they all have that problem and it is because the 3020s/4020's have a charge pump back in the transmission that feeds hyd. oil up to the main hyd. pump up front. The charge pump stops turning & delivering oil to the main pump when the clutch is pressed down. |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 21 Oct 2015 at 10:18am
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According to the service bulletins I have there is a high pressure leak in the hydraulic system, in the plumbing or one of the several valves. In the xx10 and the early xx20, the problem came from the check valve near the charge pump wearing and leaking. All three versions use the charge pump to fill the front oil cooler and reservoir and depend on proper accessory plumbing to return the cylinder oil to the reservoir, never the transmission because the front main hydraulic pump has considerably more volume than the charge pump. In the late xx20 the check valve is located up high so when it leaks it doesn't drain the front reservoir. My early 4020 developed the loss of hydraulics problem with the clutch pushed and I was shown a service information about converting an elbow to a check valve. It took a few bucks in parts and I know it has fixed dozens of tractors since I made it into a web page. It works well for me. I have let the tractor sit for months, started it with the transmission in neutral, holding in the clutch and before starting to turn the transmission input shaft have run the power steering (by hydraulics) end to end and lifte the loader. I used it to dig a basement hole and would push the bucket into the wall while driving straight, push in the clutch, break the bucket of dirt loose, lift the bucket full of dirt, shift to reverse, and spin the steering to a limit, then let out the clutch. Its definitely fixed. The information I have from service bulletins on the late xx20s is on my web page too. Gerald J. |
Posted By: GM Guy
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2015 at 7:34pm
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Best solution for something like that. Buy it irregardless, and jockey it. Take the proceeds and Buy Allis, Gleaner or Oliver stuff. End result is what you desired in the first place. :) ------------- Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine. If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help. |