D17 Series 3 Gas, fuel concern
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=112608
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Topic: D17 Series 3 Gas, fuel concern
Posted By: bmccune
Subject: D17 Series 3 Gas, fuel concern
Date Posted: 28 Sep 2015 at 4:54pm
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Hope someone can help with ideas here. D17 Series 3 Gas. Starts and idles great, Gov appears to be working. Problem. IF I give it more throttle good to go if not moving. IF I give it more throttle and am moving/under a load it appears to be running low on fuel stays running just after a bit starts spitting until I throttle back down. Why do I think this? I put a clear fuel filter in line when this happens there is NO standing fuel in the filter. Sediment bowl is full. Not spark, 100% sure of this. What I have done to date. Drained tank, cleaned although it was not dirty nor any rust inside nor anything. New fuel cap Replaced sediment assy. Made sure line was free and clear. As it runs good at idle and good with throttle w/o load nothing done to carb. Now IF I crack open the line at the carb and watch the filter once I crack the line it starts to fill like it is vapor locking??? If I shut it off when the filter gets empty and let it sit a bit, come back filter is full again. Do I have vapor lock going on? If so why? Do not remember this happen before! Any help appreciated. |
Replies:
Posted By: Dave Wisc.
Date Posted: 28 Sep 2015 at 6:09pm
| I replaced my gas cap with a new one and now with the cap tight it vapor locks. When I open the gas cap I can hear the air go into the tank. This maybe your problem too, mine will stop and I have to take the cap off for it to restart again. Hope this helps you. |
Posted By: BennyLumpkin
Date Posted: 28 Sep 2015 at 6:36pm
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Could be a sticky needle valve or plugged main jet. ------------- Central PA Allis Express 1934 WC254 1945 WF 1945 WC135755 1951 WD68085 1953 WD45-150217 1957 WD45D-230744D B110 |
Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 28 Sep 2015 at 6:46pm
| I would second the stuck needle in the carb. If the tank was vapor locking I wouldn't think cracking the line at the carb would fill the inline filter. I would also wonder if the inline filter is big enough for a gravity feed system. You can get them with enough flow. I ran my d17 serries 1 that way for years but the inline filter has to be for gravity feed. |
Posted By: Dmpaul89
Date Posted: 28 Sep 2015 at 8:23pm
| Loose the filter. Re connect lines and take plug out of carb bowl see if you have good flow |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 28 Sep 2015 at 8:53pm
| Open the main jet on the carb 2 full turns and try it. If the problem remains the same, remove the plug from the bottom of the carb bowl and with a funnel, catch the gas running out of the carb drain plug hole. IT HAS TO BE ABLE TO FILL A 5 GALLON PAIL IN ONE HOUR OR LESS. If the fuel flow doesn't meet this 5 gall per hr (or more) rate, you have a fuel flow problem somewhere. Then, determine if it's the carb or fuel line/sediment bowl with the same type of testing. |
Posted By: bmccune
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2015 at 6:37am
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Well I know from the tank to the carb is good cause when I remove the line from the carb fuel pours out of the line so must have a carb issue. Will remove drain plug and check it next chance I get. But more than likely soon as I can get the make/model of carb will just order a kit for it and go threw it. Only thing I have not done. Yes filter is gravity flow style, just a little lawn mower filter that was clear so I could see the flow. This has been a project build and now working on little kinks, just about got them all ironed out then this happened. Thanks guys appears most all agree something to do with carb, will check it out. |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2015 at 10:16am
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Most easily found inline filters are for pressurized systems which isn't gravity flow. In a gravity flow system they will restrict fuel flow. There are several possible causes of poor fuel flow. Modern gas caps won't vent, though venting caps are made. Most tractors depend on the gas cap for the vent. Usually if there's a lack of venting in the cap, the engine will run fine for 10 or 15 minutes then run lean and stall. The main jet adjustment has to be made with the engine running, not just to the book setting. The book setting is just good enough so the engine will run to allow proper setting for maximum speed with the throttle held fixed (else the governor will hide the effects of mixture adjustment). Many tractor carburetors have a screen on the inside of the carburetor inlet fitting. I've see that clogged to the point the engine would only idle for a minute every 15 minutes. When pulled it wouldn't pass air from my portable air tank at 65 psi. Floats can get bent and drag on the side of the float bowl. Needles can stick to the seat, but both of these problems usually mean they don't shut off, but they can stick nearly closed. Passages in the carburetor like the lines to the jets and the air vent can get plugged with varnish and grunge and restrict fuel getting to the engine. Air leaks between the venturi area of the carburetor and the intake valves, like the shaft seal of the throttle valve, the gasket from carburetor to intake manifold, and the gasket from intake manifold to head or block can rot, and occasionally an intake manifold can rust through killing intake vacuum, then the carburetor won't work well. And on some engines there is a little valve on the intake manifold either used for cold weather priming or for supplying vacuum to a cow milking machine. Ignition power and timing also has a big effect on engine running. Gerald J. |
Posted By: bmccune
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2015 at 5:34pm
Ok Doc think you hit on it but now have more questions as am confused to why. Parts book says I should have TSX 871 carb. I have TSX 773 on it. Which in looking at the parts for each the only thing I find different is the bowl, jets and all are the same per the parts book I have. Now to the question. The load adjusting screw does not look like the one in the parts book (L shaped) it looks just like the Idle mix screw w/o a spring on it AND IT WAS turned all the way in. Turned it out 2 turns though it dripped fuel it did perform much better so I am sure it is a carb concern. Also when removing the drain plug I did get junk out of it. I am very capable of overhauling it (tech on Auto's by trade) but my concern is it is not the correct part number for my serial it is a series 2 carb I have series 3. It has what appears to be the wrong needle so what else is missing/wrong inside yet to be known. Should I look for another replacement and if so should I stick with same brand or go with a Zenith replacement??? I can find kits/ floats/ idle needle I cannot find power adjustment items needle/seat etc assuming the internal workings are also altered. Any advise would be helpful please... UPDATE: Though no one responded to the above question I called my local Tractor wholesaler in Clinton Missouri Cook Tractors asking for a TSX 871 price. I was told that TSX 871 and/or TSX 773 where put on the early change overs in the serial numbers depending on what was around. He also told me there is no difference in them other than the number and maybe linkage. Used price (said Good Used still would go through it) was $125.00 not to bad. Looking at the Zenith which would be # 14991 best I could find wqas $275.00 thinking sticking with Marvel maybe the better way.
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DrAllis wrote: