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Draw bar set up

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Other Topics
Forum Name: Pulling Forum
Forum Description: Forum dedicated to Tractor and Garden Pulling
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=110157
Printed Date: 16 Jun 2024 at 4:27pm
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Topic: Draw bar set up
Posted By: Ronnie
Subject: Draw bar set up
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2015 at 5:58pm
Hi every one I have a 190xt that I have bin pulling for 4 years now and I have all ways had the drawbar set out to get the front end to just Bob the ground. I was not runing wheelbars. And now I hot to put them on to pull any ware so I purchased a set up that was already made for my tractor from a guy that runs a 190xt gaser.
The setup I got from him put the drawbar up close to the tractor under the pto . So my question is what do u guys think is beter the drawbar extended out or short.
I forgot the tractor has a custom made narrow front and weights 6250 with me on it and I put most of the weights in the rear and only a few on the belly bar none out front. thanks



Replies:
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2015 at 6:33pm
To have the most competitive tractor, you need to have the drawbar as SHORT as the rules allow and as HIGH as the rules allow. Usually this is 18 inches short from the center of the rear wheel backwards and 20 inches high up to the pull point. If your front end is too heavy, you really need to figure out how to change the chassis and rear tire traction to make it work at the shortest setting. You'll find no NTPA puller running a 20 inch long drawbar....it's always 18 inches. Their Techmen are always looking for someone who tries to be shorter than 18 inches. You do whatever you want, and the next time you fall into a set of spin-out holes made by the current leader of your class, you lose, because your drawbar is probably longer than his. I don't particularly believe in belly racks either. They have their place, but limited. For example, if you just ran a 6,000 pound class and your "balance" was good, weighting up for the 7,000 pound class should be easy.....300 on the front and 700 just behind the rear wheels. If your rear weights are centered on the rear wheels, you might get by with 800 rear and 200 on the nose. All a belly rack does is confuse your thinking. Keep it simple.


Posted By: Ronnie
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2015 at 7:01pm
Ok thanks Dr


Posted By: timmypuller
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2015 at 5:15pm
I agree about the belly bar . I always fill back bar before using mine. Also most of the time short drawbar is the way to go. But if front end is to heavy you can help yourself by sliding drawbar back some but don't get to crazy. Local association here has a very long chain on sled. That helps the deeres that are usually very lite on front end they can move their weight from front to back. Opposite effect on the farmalls they wind up being extremely nose heavy with all the cast iron they have on the front end. I wouldn't go any futher back than 2 inches and then you're still experimenting.


Posted By: Ronnie
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2015 at 10:09pm
So I got to try out the new set up and with all the weight on the back end the new draw bar is to short and I can't get the front end to bob so I'm going back to what I was runing and just modify the rear weight bracket and wheelybars to except the old draw bar.

I do got to say I had a lot of fun pulling with every one saterday at marshallville ohio it was a great time. met some forum members very nice guys I will do more pulling ohio again.



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