Pulling Forum - WC Clutch

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WC Clutch

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Other Topics
Forum Name: Pulling Forum
Forum Description: Forum dedicated to Tractor and Garden Pulling
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=109801
Printed Date: 16 Jun 2024 at 1:13am
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Topic: WC Clutch

Posted By: David Terry
Subject: WC Clutch
Date Posted: 02 Aug 2015 at 5:27pm

I'm building a WC puller. I'm a D17 engine and a styled WC bell housing so I have electric start. I used a styled WC fly wheel and got new WC 9 inch clutch pressure plate, clutch plate, and throw out bearing. Now the clutch will not allow the transmission to shift. Looking underneath, it looks like the throw out bearing will not travel far enough. I tried adjusting the fingers, but they were all the way out. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Replies:

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 02 Aug 2015 at 5:43pm

Lengthen the clutch pedal rod. You should have 3/8" gap or less from throw out brg to finger tips.

Posted By: David Terry
Date Posted: 02 Aug 2015 at 7:40pm

Are you talking about the rod from the pedal to the clutch activation arm? When I have the clutch fully depressed (up against the housing), the throw out bearing will not push the fingers in . There is about 3/8 to 1/2 inch clearance.

Posted By: David Terry
Date Posted: 02 Aug 2015 at 7:42pm

Let me clarify. There is the 3/8 to 1/2 inch clearance before I push the pedal. When I push the throw out bearing is up against the fingers but will not push them in.

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 02 Aug 2015 at 7:46pm

You need to get that gap less/closer. What is your pressure plate?? 6 spring or (hopefully) 9 spring ?? Did you use the 4-pad clutch disc ??

Posted By: David Terry
Date Posted: 02 Aug 2015 at 8:14pm

I used the 6 spring pressure plate, and I got a new clutch plate, but I'm not sure if it is the 4 Pad. I tried to adjust the fingers with no luck. What looks like will work is to turn the activation arm back on its shaft. I can get about 1/2 to 5/8 doing that. The only problem is I'd have to re-drill the shaft to get it to hold and I'm not sure that I'd have the sp

ace between the old and new hole.

Posted By: BennyLumpkin
Date Posted: 03 Aug 2015 at 8:57am

Sounds kinda like your friction plate is in backwards. A 6 spring clutch isn't going to last long with that setup. I had a 9 spring and normal friction disc with my Gleaner engine and it wouldn't when try to hold up.

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Central PA Allis Express
1934 WC254
1945 WF
1945 WC135755
1951 WD68085
1953 WD45-150217
1957 WD45D-230744D
B110

Posted By: David Terry
Date Posted: 03 Aug 2015 at 6:41pm

Well here is the shade tree engineering way I fixed it. Like you said I needed to gain 1/4 inch. I tried resetting the locking bolts but that didn't do any good. Instead What I did was take the lock bolt out of the actuator arm on the side of the bell housing, then put a wrench in between the throw out bearing carrier and the housing. Then I tapped the arm toward the back of the tractor. That gave me the necessary space adjustment. I welded the arm to the shaft. If I ever have to take it off, the weld will be easy to grind. Clutch works fine and doesn't chatter. A little stiff, but working. Thanks for the help. Dave