B engine issues and questions
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=108757
Printed Date: 13 Sep 2025 at 5:54am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: B engine issues and questions
Posted By: skeeters65
Subject: B engine issues and questions
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2015 at 3:07pm
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Hey guys I am looking at buying a 1947 B locally that I want to restore to new condition. The big problem is the current owner has told me the block has a crack between the cylinders. It did run but was getting antifreeze in the oil pan. My questions are: How do I know if that block is useable? What should I expect to pay for a rebuild? What should I expect to pay for a complete running motor? Anyone got a B motor for sale? Can you build these motors to make more power than the factory Horse Power? Thanks |
Replies:
Posted By: everett048
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2015 at 3:31pm
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Most of the B C & W C motors are cracked between the sleeves as long as it is on the top it will be fine. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2015 at 3:50pm
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Lots of ways for coolant to get in the pan. One is real easy to fix and very common. It's the core plugs in the top of the head leaking. If this block is cracked at the bottom of the sleeve, letting coolant in the oil, it is best to scrap it and find a different block. I would imagine you can very easily get $2500 an engine if you hire all the work done. Sometimes you can buy a running engine for $5oo or less, but what you are getting is unknown unless you do a compression test and check end play in the crank before hand. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2015 at 5:32pm
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The cracks between the sleeves if hair line will not leak. O rings at the bottom can as well as stated from core plugs under the rocker arms. More power? You bet if you have deep pockets. If you would find the block bad I would trade anything you have of interest for one without crack on the top. I don't sell parts or ship them but you would be welcome to pick it up. Probly to far away but the offer is there. Same engine block as a C and you can make them do this with a 4 inch stroke and a crane cam along with .150 off the head. that is with Chevy valve and porting. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hM4YbM8keMM" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hM4YbM8keMM |
Posted By: skeeters65
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2015 at 8:23pm
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Dick L, Thanks for the offer. Ohio is a bit of a drive from CT though. Where could I read more about the motor you described. Any idea how much power it makes? |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2015 at 8:48pm
Not sure as I didn't install a power takeoff because I didn't want it checked when I was pulling. It has a longer stroke than a D 15 with higher compression because of the head work. I brought the pistons up 1/4" into the firing chamber. I had the engine balanced at an engine shop and if I wanted I could turn 4000 rpm with the springs I had. I had that spring on the second pull in the video. I didn't use it all because I didn't want DQ'd. The first pull in that class two others were winding there engines way over. I changed springs between hooks. They had both bought two hooks so I just beat them at their own game the second time around. Dad always said, I don't like cheaters and I don't like to cheat but I'd rather cheat than be cheated.  Example of my head. This is one I did for a member here that is much like the one on my puller.   
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skeeters65 wrote: