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best oil to run ?

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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=106727
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Topic: best oil to run ?
Posted By: what a mess
Subject: best oil to run ?
Date Posted: 26 May 2015 at 4:59pm
what oil should i be running in my series 1 d 17 and my ca? thanks for info best filters also pls



Replies:
Posted By: NICKMI
Date Posted: 26 May 2015 at 5:16pm
fram c159 for oil filters I use 15w 40 but I'm sure others will say to use straight 30 like book calls for in the motor what's the history on them some ppl are sill using non detergent 30 wt


Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 26 May 2015 at 6:34pm
Modern oils are beneficial to engine life. Before detergents and other additives 35,000 miles was good engine life between rebuilds. With detergent oils suddenly engines ran at least 100,000 miles between rebuilds in cars.

Besides detergents modern oils contain anti corrosion additives so when there's moisture in the oil and copper/silver bearing inserts are next to steel crankshafts, the battery from moisture and the different metals is prevented from corroding the bearing inserts, giving a much longer life.

The most modern oils can be short on additives for sliding cam followers so diesel rated oils should treat vintage engines better.

Gerald J.


Posted By: Big Orange
Date Posted: 26 May 2015 at 8:25pm
If an engine has A full flow filter lube system, detergent oil is the best oil for that engine, but if an engine has A by-pass filter lube system, A good grade high additive non detergent oil should be used. Detergent oil is great for today's engines, but detergent in some older engines that don't filter the oil from the oil pump to the bearings is not so great, as detergent will pickup the dirt and take it right to the bearings, then to other parts like camshafts, lifters, pistons, rings, est. If used to do heavy work in dirty conditions there will be very early engine failures.    


Posted By: orangeman69
Date Posted: 26 May 2015 at 9:38pm
we use cen pe co 15/40 diesel oil in all our allis, gas and diesel engines.but I don't use them in the winter.

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d17,d17nfpuller,d-17IVdiesel,d19gas,d19diesel nf,d21seriesII,180,190xtseries III,200,210,7020,7060,7080w/8.3cummins,8070fwa w/8.3cummins,8550 185 w/322 original hrs.


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 26 May 2015 at 9:54pm
The ole WD did everything from plowing to the allcrop in the fall on 60A here from new in 49 till 1980.From at least 62 on it had 10w30 detergent oil.It's been a loafer since 90 but is still alive and well.No failures,heavy lifting and all....


Posted By: Big Orange
Date Posted: 27 May 2015 at 11:32am
Years ago farmers had one tractor that did all the  work on the farm. That tractor was run hour after hour, days on end, daylite to dark, plowing, disking, planting & harvesting. The wc, wd, & wd45s were some of best. They had no hour meters on them. Most of them ran 10 or so years, before needing rebuilding. Back then the only engine oil available was non detergent ML & MM straight wt oil. As time went on the new detergent oils came into the picture, so most farmers went to the socalled better oils, after the rebuild. Most needed rebuilding in about A year or so after. You draw your own conclusions about this. 


Posted By: Dmpaul89
Date Posted: 27 May 2015 at 1:59pm
Originally posted by Big Orange Big Orange wrote:

If an engine has A full flow filter lube system, detergent oil is the best oil for that engine, but if an engine has A by-pass filter lube system, A good grade high additive non detergent oil should be used. Detergent oil is great for today's engines, but detergent in some older engines that don't filter the oil from the oil pump to the bearings is not so great, as detergent will pickup the dirt and take it right to the bearings, then to other parts like camshafts, lifters, pistons, rings, est. If used to do heavy work in dirty conditions there will be very early engine failures.    


Seems Legitimate


Posted By: Ky.Allis
Date Posted: 27 May 2015 at 5:18pm
Make life a little easier on yourself. Shell Rotella-T 15/40 in everything. I use it in D-17,200,truck,car lawn mower,gator and skid steer. Never had an issue.


Posted By: TimNearFortWorth
Date Posted: 27 May 2015 at 5:32pm
Ditto on the Rotella; everything from the 190XT, D19D, and all the D-Series gas engines. Even in the A-C garden tractors with B&S 16hp twins. Catch it when Wally World has a decent price and stock up.


Posted By: Big Orange
Date Posted: 27 May 2015 at 5:46pm
KY.ALLIS      I think you need to know your Rotella -T 15/40 oil, is not the same formulation as it was A few years ago. Reduction of the zinc content, was one change, zinc is A antiwear additive. Check for yourself.     


Posted By: VFDfireman
Date Posted: 27 May 2015 at 6:25pm
Originally posted by Big Orange Big Orange wrote:

KY.ALLIS      I think you need to know your Rotella -T 15/40 oil, is not the same formulation as it was A few years ago. Reduction of the zinc content, was one change, zinc is A antiwear additive. Check for yourself.     


Pretty much the truth on any current diesel oil. Still better additive pkg than other current gasser oils for older flat tappet motors.

If your really that worried you could toss in some STP....personally ive seen enough UOAs that I'm not concerned....yet.


Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 27 May 2015 at 8:24pm
I have been using 10w 30 detergent, in a half dozen tractors for about 10 years. Works great. The 10w part is good for winter starts, and the 30 wt was original design and still a good weight running oil.

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Like them all, but love the "B"s.


Posted By: Big Orange
Date Posted: 27 May 2015 at 8:29pm
STP is A oil thickener A viscosity improver, not A anti-wear additive. Racing oils have the higher amount of zinc needed for flat tappet engines. The old formula Rotella-t 15/40 did, but not now. The brakein period of A new flat tappet cam is the most creatical time.         


Posted By: Big Orange
Date Posted: 27 May 2015 at 8:41pm
The W in the oil id means winter not weight. So 10w/30 , means 10winter 30sae. 30w means 30 winter. Sae 30 is A different oil, for summer use.  


Posted By: VFDfireman
Date Posted: 27 May 2015 at 8:44pm
Originally posted by Big Orange Big Orange wrote:

STP is A oil thickener A viscosity improver, not A anti-wear additive. Racing oils have the higher amount of zinc needed for flat tappet engines. The old formula Rotella-t 15/40 did, but not now. The brakein period of A new flat tappet cam is the most creatical time.         


Plenty of zddp in STP. Plenty of voas on it as well.


Posted By: 427435
Date Posted: 27 May 2015 at 9:18pm
Winter (w) ratings only go to 25 (rarely if ever produced).  There is no  API 30w oil-------only 30 weight.


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Mark

B10 Allis, 917 Allis, 7116 Simplicity, 7790 Simplicity Diesel,
GTH-L Simplicity

Ignorance is curable-----stupidity is not.


Posted By: what a mess
Date Posted: 29 May 2015 at 9:02pm
so should i look for a strait 30 racing oil?


Posted By: 427435
Date Posted: 29 May 2015 at 9:15pm
What condition are the engines in?  What oil has been used?

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Mark

B10 Allis, 917 Allis, 7116 Simplicity, 7790 Simplicity Diesel,
GTH-L Simplicity

Ignorance is curable-----stupidity is not.


Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 29 May 2015 at 9:52pm
basically 10w 30 oil means the oil exhibits the viscosity of 10w oil when cold and 30 wt oil when hot. That makes it easy starting in the winter, and still has a 30 wt viscosity when at operating temp... 10w 30 detergent oil is a great oil for year round use.
 
 
--In single grade oils, the lower the number, the better it flows at cold temperatures. Likewise, the higher the number, the thicker the oil. In regard to multigrade oils, the first number in the code, such as 10W in SAE 10W-30, means that the oil can still be pumped by the engine at a temperature as low as a single grade 10W oil. A 5W, like in SAE 5W-30, can be pumped at an even lower temperature, and a 0W, like in SAE 0W-30, will pump at the lowest tested temperatures. The W in the designation is commonly thought to represent weight, but in fact stands for Winter. The second number, 30, indicates how well the oil will flow when heated to 100C/212F or higher.


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Like them all, but love the "B"s.


Posted By: what a mess
Date Posted: 30 May 2015 at 10:08am
well they both start up good i jstu got both tractors so im not really sure my d 17 has original oil pressure gauge and it drops to 0 when im run it for about 5 mins so its got me nervous


Posted By: 427435
Date Posted: 30 May 2015 at 10:43am

Do they have oil filters???


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Mark

B10 Allis, 917 Allis, 7116 Simplicity, 7790 Simplicity Diesel,
GTH-L Simplicity

Ignorance is curable-----stupidity is not.


Posted By: what a mess
Date Posted: 30 May 2015 at 12:34pm
yes they both do


Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 30 May 2015 at 9:53pm
your oil pressure drops due to excess internal clearance or too thin of oil. I would change the filter and put in new oil. Since you have low, I  would suggest 15 w 40 oil and see if you gain back pressure.

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Like them all, but love the "B"s.


Posted By: 427435
Date Posted: 30 May 2015 at 10:45pm
Originally posted by what a mess what a mess wrote:

yes they both do



OK, then, If they were mine, I would be using the same oil I'm using in a wide variety of engines------------------Mobil 1 5w-40 Turbo Diesel oil.  It is also rated for spark engine use SL and SM.

A dino 15w-40 oil, as Steve recommended above, would work too.  However, with the synthetic Mobil 1, you wouldn't have to change oil as often.  I find that job less and less enjoyable as I get older and older!!   Thumbs Down


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Mark

B10 Allis, 917 Allis, 7116 Simplicity, 7790 Simplicity Diesel,
GTH-L Simplicity

Ignorance is curable-----stupidity is not.


Posted By: what a mess
Date Posted: 01 Jun 2015 at 10:26pm
so 5-40 over a stait 30 or 40 racing oil with all the old additives in it i do run 5 40 mobile 11 in my 6.0


Posted By: DEP5
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2015 at 6:40am
This is what I use in my D10 Series III, the 1932 Chrysler, the 1950 Olds and the 1947 Packard.

https://www.classiccarmotoroil.com/" rel="nofollow - https://www.classiccarmotoroil.com/

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D10 Series III, fully optioned


Posted By: 427435
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2015 at 11:29pm
Originally posted by what a mess what a mess wrote:

so 5-40 over a stait 30 or 40 racing oil with all the old additives in it i do run 5 40 mobile 11 in my 6.0


You certainly could run the 5w-40 turbo diesel oil.  I think Mobil has a non-diesel 5w-40 oil also.


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Mark

B10 Allis, 917 Allis, 7116 Simplicity, 7790 Simplicity Diesel,
GTH-L Simplicity

Ignorance is curable-----stupidity is not.


Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2015 at 7:12am
I've been using 15w40 for years n' years in all my Tractors and small equipment. Even in some of my older cars that I've sold, (and those owners are still driving them) and never had any problems. I change the oil a couple times in the power equipment I use within the year, and every 3K in the cars. I use synthetic oil in JoAnna's CTS Caddy only because that's what it came with and I stuck with that. I change that around 5K or so. The shop 03' Astro Van I use 5w30 as GM suggested since it was brand new. Again every 3K the oil and filter are changed. Everything else gets that 15w40. Some of the Garden Tractors have filters also. The way I use it, I should buy it by the 55 gal. drum! LOL!

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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife


Posted By: mp38b
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2015 at 10:33pm
Originally posted by Big Orange Big Orange wrote:

If an engine has A full flow filter lube system, detergent oil is the best oil for that engine, but if an engine has A by-pass filter lube system, A good grade high additive non detergent oil should be used. Detergent oil is great for today's engines, but detergent in some older engines that don't filter the oil from the oil pump to the bearings is not so great, as detergent will pickup the dirt and take it right to the bearings, then to other parts like camshafts, lifters, pistons, rings, est. If used to do heavy work in dirty conditions there will be very early engine failures.    


Big Orange- If they don't listen, there is not much you can do. Using a detergent oil in a dirty engine is going to clean it out! Where is that dirt going to go? Through all of the parts being oiled until the dirt is gone. Liquid sandpaper for everything moving. Not just the bearings, but the splash on all of the other moving parts and cylinder walls. You've warned him.


Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2015 at 8:15am
 The sky isn't falling here in Illinois yet. Wink
 I bought my WD45 32 years ago. I didn't ask what oil had been used in it, I got it home and changed the oil and filter using 10W30. Watched to see if the oil got dirty by looking at the dipstick. If it started to look dirty, change it. Been doing the same thing for 32 years and never had a problem yet.
 The biggest problem with engine oil around here is most likely condensation from not working her long enough and using it in winter for pushing snow.


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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: ac45dave
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2015 at 4:14pm
Originally posted by DEP5 DEP5 wrote:


This is what I use in my D10 Series III, the 1932 Chrysler, the 1950 Olds and the 1947 Packard.

https://www.classiccarmotoroil.com/" rel="nofollow - https://www.classiccarmotoroil.com/


i ran across this thread today.been searching for a good non-detergent oil to use in my" m "that hasn't been overhauled.probably has had non detergent oil ran it most of it's life.found that, classic car motor oil is NOT a non-detergent oil.would be great if they had a non detergent grade.this oil does have much higher phosphorus and zinc(zddp) levels which is great for these flat tappet engines.most name brands today have half the zinc of the classic car brand which has 1600 ppm.gets to be kind of a trade off,non-detergent vs higher phos and zinc to protect cam and tappets.

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54 wd-45gas ; 56 wd-45d N/F w/fact p/s ; 63 d-17 sIII N/F gas ; 60 D14 N/F ; 67 d-17 sIV N/F gas ; 63D15 sII W/F; 39rc#667 ; 2021 massey 4710 fwa ; gravely 2 wheel tractors


Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2015 at 9:55pm
Originally posted by what a mess what a mess wrote:

well they both start up good i jstu got both tractors so im not really sure my d 17 has original oil pressure gauge and it drops to 0 when im run it for about 5 mins so its got me nervous


If the 17 is an early model with the bypass system, does it have a stem in the filter base? Does it have the right filter?
Is the gauge good? What is the pressure cold on start up?


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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: GM Guy
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2015 at 10:26pm
I use Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15w40 conventional in most every diesel I own. From a fleet of 6.5Ls to my L3 and 7580.

I dont have any gas tractors, but I know we run 15w40 diesel oil in dad's Super 55 and 550 Olivers (S55 and one 550 are gas, other 550 is diesel)

I refuse to run a junk Fram filter. We run Wix or Baldwin or whoever Agco uses as a supplier, those are the only 3 we use.



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Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine.

If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help.


Posted By: HD6GTOM
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2015 at 8:53am
I spent many years selling oil, many years helping test it in the labs along with millions of road miles in heavy trucks, cars, light truck, and thousands of hours in farm tractors. Any 10wX30 or 15Wx40 motor oil is going to work for you. We took old tractors that had been run on non detergent oil since they were new-some were 30+ years old at the time of testing and switched them to the, new to them, detergent oils. At 20 and then 50 hours of running we changed the filters, tore the filters apart. The 20hour filters were very dirty, the 50 hour filters were not so dirty. We lost 1 tractor engine after switching to detergent oil, That was due to a worn out set of rod bearings not related to switching to detergent oil. We did oil tests before, and did many after the switch, and we were sure the tractor was going to need rod bearings before we put the new oil in it. As far as low oil pressure, if my memory serves me right the early D17 needs a certain oil filter to maintain oil pressure. If you have an AGCO dealer stop in there and pick up the correct filter. If you have an older NAPA store in your area they may be able to help too. I think you need the pipe that goes up into the center of the filter, that should be still screwed into your filter base.



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