did I ever mention that
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=104982
Printed Date: 22 Aug 2025 at 3:19am
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Topic: did I ever mention that
Posted By: screwloose
Subject: did I ever mention that
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2015 at 4:05pm
| I HATE prepping a tractor to be painted. What a longggggg ugly task. |
Replies:
Posted By: bigcountry48
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2015 at 4:36pm
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I know the feeling! I've put a lot of hours in behind the trigger of a wire wheel, I've had so much dust up my nose I thought I was gonna get lock jaw! Not sure why, but after I paint it, I always want to do another one!!! ------------- 1950 B, 1952 pulling wd, and 1954 wd45 |
Posted By: Rltool
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2015 at 4:54pm
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I feel your pain also! Been there done that. It IS WORTH IT when your done tho. I guess that is why after only a short time we go right back into another. Ray W. |
Posted By: Thad in AR.
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2015 at 5:00pm
| My WC has been ready to paint for nearly 3 years. I'll probably have too start over. I got in a position that I needed more hrs at work and I think it became a habit and the wc got pushed to the back of the shop. I do hope to get it finished this summer. When I'm working on one I will take a whole weekend and spend hrs with the wirebrush/grinder and my sandblast cabinet. I'll feel bad/headachy for a few days after. I try to have several parts ready on these weekends so I don't have to go through it too often. |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2015 at 5:41pm
| The total time of a good paint job is probly 90% or more of the time in prep. |
Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2015 at 7:03pm
| I'm prepping my first tractor for paint, a Ford 8N. Any advice? I don't know too much about it, other than remove ALL grease and oil and loose paint. Can I just spray over the old paint and get a pretty good outcome? I'm going to sandblast the dash for sure. |
Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2015 at 9:47pm
| Bump |
Posted By: SHAMELESS
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2015 at 10:47pm
| sure takes a lot of beer! |
Posted By: Rltool
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2015 at 4:22am
The beer washes down the dust shameless.  CrestonM, It is best to get as much off as you can. You don't know what is underneath the existing paint or what type of paint it is. Then you don't get that thick multi layered paint over look. A lot depends on how much you want to put into it. Do you want show quality or just get the rust off. It is all up to you. It is your time & effort. You should use a good primer coat no matter how you do it. That will seal up what ever is underneath so it doesn't have as much chance to react with the new paint. JMO Ray W. |
Posted By: Fred in Pa
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2015 at 5:49am
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You got to LOVE the WORK you do or you will feel this way . ------------- He who dies with the most toys is, nonetheless ,still dead. If all else fails ,Read all that is PRINTED. |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2015 at 8:22am
Old solid paint can be sanded and painted. Where you have bare metal places in a painted area you will need to use a primer. The primer will have to have enough build up to block sand to the same level as the rest of the surface or the low spot will show in the paint. It all depends on the type of paint used whether or not you need to prime over the old paint. If you thin coat any of the bare areas with bondo you will need to prime all of the surface of sheet metal. If your not using epoxy primer you will need several coats of primer over the bondo or you will see where the bondo was used in the finish paint. If you want to check you prep job you can put a very thin coat of a contrasting paint over the primer and sand with a block until the contrasting paint is gone. That will find the places you need to use more primer. It takes sanding over the bondo areas between coats of primer. It all depends on how you want the paint to look when done. Lots of tractors painted with a brush without much prep and look nice from a distance and it keeps the rust away. Very few tractors you see at tractor shows have had a proper auto prep and look just fine. The only place I spend extra time in prep is the hood, grill and dash. then I use cheap paint that fades in a coupla years. This is not advise just how the big boys prep. |
CrestonM wrote:Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2015 at 5:16pm
| Thanks guys! |
Posted By: JW in MO
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2015 at 7:52pm
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I thought I hated prepping a tractor for painting until I did a plow. ------------- Maximum use of available resources! |
Posted By: Roach
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2015 at 9:03pm
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Thanks a lot, I need to get started on a plow and disc. Not looking forward to that. May have to have another beer and think about it..... ------------- 1937 WC, 1948 G,1954 CA,1956 WD45, 1967 D17, 1937 M crawler, 1963 D-19, 1966 190XT, 1967 D-15, 1948 HG42 Cletrac, 1955 G456 Terra Trac, CAT 10 1928 and CAT 22 1938 |
Posted By: dave63
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2015 at 6:29am
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Are you going to have it ready for the Manchester "Days gone by" ? They are featuring AC this year. Sure would like to see it. May 16-17 Manchester FD ------------- The universal answer to all questions is yes, how much do you want to spend? |
Posted By: screwloose
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2015 at 7:34am
| Dave, no I won't have it finished in time for Manchester Days gone by. I 've totally rebuilt the engine, transmission and rear now I'm prepping for paint and need to assemble the other 297 pieces that make up the rest of the tractor. My goal is to get it put together by august so I can take it on the tractor ride in September. |
Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2015 at 7:40am
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Hummm, I have a tractor and a plow to do also! Guess I better get started:) I tend to go the route of removing as much paint as possible. I don't have a sandblaster but have taken items like rims to local blaster which was worth the money in saving cleaning time. Yes the prep just takes a long time! But it is going to be the foundation for your nice paint job. Keep up the good work. Pictures? I know the Ford is off color for this forum .You could come over to Antique tractors Forum if you wanted? Regards, Chris ------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Posted By: Deeregirl
Date Posted: 21 May 2015 at 6:43am
| It's still not put together??? Your not working, what the heck is taking you so long??? |
Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 21 May 2015 at 7:17am
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Dick is spot on (no pun intended) when it comes to priming and prepping. That is very time consuming. I've learned over the years with my restorations that if the paint is smooth, hard, and isn't going anywhere especially on drivetrain parts, (and especially after they're pressure washed) I usually will block sand the area's to see what the end result is. If the painted surface is rock hard, I'll paint over it. If the sanding loosens the painted area due to rust underneath, then depending on how big the area or part is, I usually will have that part or piece sandblasted or I'll glassbead it cause' I don't know how good the adhesion is to the surface underneath. That's somethin' you learn from trial n' error. Frame rails I usually just automatically have em' sandblasted so when the good paint goes on, the paint lays down nice and even over the block sanded filler primer. Sheetmetal I always take down to bare shiny steel. Then hand it to my body man to do his magic on. Saves me a pile of dough than having him do the messy stripping grunt work! Some parts that you can save some money on at the sandblasters, can go toward new hardware to put the Tractor together with. Nothin' like nice new Grade 8 Bolts for assembly! I like to use Stainless bolts on the sheetmetal with a flat fiber washer or nylon washer under the head of the bolt so the paint isn't torn up when tightening the bolts up... Steve@B&B ------------- 39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife |
Posted By: SHAMELESS
Date Posted: 21 May 2015 at 12:15pm
| my brother had an 8-N once that he wanted painted after getting everything fixed on it...well me and some others painted it for him one night....yep...it was passionate pink! tires and all! |
Posted By: Jim Hancock
Date Posted: 21 May 2015 at 12:39pm
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As a side note, here's some info for anyone that experiences what Thad does. Drink lots of white grapefruit juice before during and after your project to help ease the headaches and other symptoms. Here's why: The lymph system is the body's waste disposal from the cells. if it's plugged, no toxins can be eliminated and therefore is recycled in the body causing the headaches and other symptoms. Drinking that juice, comparatively speaking, is doing what Drano does to a home drain that is plugged as it flushes and cleans the lymph system of your body so that your body can dump the toxins into a clean waste disposal system and the end result is lesser headaches and other symptoms because toxins are not getting recycled. BTW, if you haven't heard of this, add a little salt to the juice, if you find that it's too "tart", to sweeten it up. Also, when the system is clean, you drink a glass and you need to go empty the bladder in about 3-5 minutes. And, after you've drank quite a bit of it for awhile, your body will tell you when it's had enough as it won't taste good. Wait a week or so and try again to drink some. Eventually, it will taste good again. I hope this little bit of info will help you all work a little easier. Jim
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