off color pto ??? on 4wd

Have a friend with mostly JD and IH that has a manure pump. He said a AC was the only color that would hold up running continuously.       MACK

Ya' know, this brings up a question I've always wondered about:

Guy here has a engine mounted on a 2 ton truck and pulled grinder around and does a lot of work, don't know any of the details on the drive but it seems to work for him.

what allis would be the best

know of any for sale in the area

bigal121892 wrote: Tbone95 wrote: Ya' know, this brings up a question I've always wondered about:   How does it "pencil out" to use a hay grinder?  Expensive piece of equipment to begin with.  Then, burn a butt load of fuel every time you operate it.  Takes a hell-for-stout tractor to run one because it's so hard on the PTO drive train.  Then, you're likely to tear up something in the tractor anyway, and/or the grinder.  How does it possibly make you money?  Cows on my land have been munching as-baled hay since 1945 when it was my grandpa's place.  Never seen a cow starve to death.  Please explain! That's why you hire it done. Even when we had a lot of cattle on feed, always hired a hay grinder. And yes, only the Allis 4wd PTO's, will hold up to heavy PTO use like a hay grinder.

Seem a few around here are grinding poor quality hay with corn silage and some wet distillers grain to either up the quality of their hay or lower the quality of their silage. For me , with the cattle prices where they are I'll stay with dry hay and grind my own feed for my calves. I'll spend my dollar on weed control and nutrients for hay and corn.I think you get out of your cattle what you put in them,but I agree with tbone,just too expensive.

Well, I don't know how you guys that live up there do it. Don't think I could take the weather no matter what else you have going for you.

Jess, with that many cows and your climate I see your delima. I cannot answer about the durability of the pto. Would a 7080 with some tuning fill the need? Maybe and please done scorn me but what about a case. 1570,2590. Can't you get the hp needed at a lower cost that way? Good luck with your decision. Scott     

Jess wrote: my dad has a caseih 3594 and i have a 7240 magnum but the 8970 new holland does better it is supose to be 220 at the pto but the grinder is good for 300 to 350hp so could still use more this year the hay is so wet it just takes more hp thanks

Just came across this article and since I am retired, have a very good 8550 for sale. I have owned it since 1986 and in the winter of 89/90 I did a repower to a 350 Cummins. It made a really good tractor out of it. It pulls quite a bit better than original on way less fuel. 14 Imp gal/hr on AC and 9-10 on Cummins. The whole tractor was gone through when we had it split(transmission, drop box, pto drop box, center hinge pins, cab interior, and has been a solid 2nd or 3rd tractor since. Has about 3,000 hrs since the repower with a complete rebuilt NTC 350. I used this tractor to pull a big PT combine for 16 years so if you grease the u-joints every 8 hours you will have no trouble. I have a spare pto drive shaft because of all the hype about them blowing up. We ran the tractor through the shop and fixed a couple little oil leaks, new A/C compressor, new PT fuel pump, new radio with bluetooth, and 4 new tires on front axle. When we did the complete paint job we fixed all the lights and little things that we came across. I will never get all my money out of this tractor but I get attached to my old work horses and like to see them in field ready condition.I have some more pics that are easier to send by email if you want.

barrymosby@gmail.com

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We put straw thru the hat grinder for bedding the chute is adjusted to disperse it out the right side in a fan shape. It on a JD 7200 one bale in it one on the rack and one on the lifter. We can bed the whole lot in about 10 minutes spreads a nice even layer.

One of my fuel customers had 6-800 head of cattle on feed year around. They had a 7080 on theirs. They chopped everything. They bought year old hay and ran it thru the grinder and blended it with new hay and silage.

Ron(AB) wrote: Looks great! Where is the exhaust?

Because the turbo on the 350 is down on the right side of the engine and the exhaust is on the rear, we just mounted a 5" Cat muffler from a 980 loader back along the cab side post and connected them with 5" exhaust tubing. Exhaust is out of sight and quieter.

These are old pictures that I downsized the file to be able to post.


AC_8550_3_Washed_021.JPGAC_8550_3_Washed_010.JPG

To keep the 855 Cummins as close to the transmission as possible so the fan would fit on the front without lengthening the frame, I had to build my own torque limiter clutch arrangement. The Allis transmission has a proprietary spline on the input shaft so I used 2 Allis 12" friction plates with their stock spline in a 14" Cummins dish flywheel and a Lipe 14" 1138 pressure plate with the release fingers removed and modified spring compression to increase the 600 ft/lb breakaway torque to more like 800 to accomodate the 900 ft/lbs of the small cam Cummins. I chose the small cam engine because they were a lower torque and higher rpm engine than the big cams that were the trend. That stack of components determined the required distance between the 24" diameter Allis transmission face and the back of the Cummins block. I did the design and measuring and a local machine shop built a bell housing from scratch that bolted to the back of the Cummins block and was 3.250" in total depth to position the torque limiter clutch and friction discs on the input spline of the transmission. It was quite the process to build a mounting plate that had the Cummins block bolt pattern drilled and tapped to start bolting 3/4" plate onto to start finding crank shaft center and turning everything in a big lathe so it was all built around crank center. I still have that mounting plate if anyone was interested. Right down to welding a starter mount lug onto the engine end and measuring .015"starter pinion tooth end clearance to flywheel ring gear before boring the starter hole. There are other ways to do this mount but this was a great way to keep it all compact and now 30 years later it has proved to be all in alignment and and a successful repower. I have all the measurements and data from back then so it would be a pretty easy start to duplicate the process now. If anyone wants to repower a 41 year old tractor!