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LED trailer lights

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Ray54 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ray54 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: LED trailer lights
    Posted: 16 Oct 2017 at 11:53am
Maybe almost a Shameless question but anyway.

What is the good and bad about LED lights. The son has said time for new wire and lights on the 1975 stock trailer that was made in OK with all them NO strip or crimp wire connections.

I am not much on playing with wire and the shock you stuff. But do have a meter and know what scale the volts is on. Oh that DC will not kill me on the first mistake,but after that things go down hill fast.

Son looked at new tail lights and the LED ones you have to buy a plug and attach that to the wire rather than just attach wire to pig tail from mixture. So he is arguing a extra place to cause trouble down the road. So I am coming to theSmile EXPERTS.
So thank you all for sharing your expertise and experience with me.



PS if you don't knowConfused what a  multi meter  is I don't think I need your help but then again I don't know what all I don't know.        


Edited by Ray54 - 16 Oct 2017 at 11:54am
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Dakota Dave View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dakota Dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2017 at 12:13pm
I put LEDs on my car hauler more than 10 years ago. I replaced the complete wire harness at the same time. since then they have worked every time. I havent touched them. The old lights I replaced about every third year and had to replace the housings were full of rust. and mess with them every time I left the trailer sitting usually in the snow bank for winter. The only down side is when you smash one with the chain you gota replace the whole assembly. I now have an extra side marker light sitting on the shelf. Ill probably looose it before i need it. The other down sidse was the cost when I did mine they were over three times the price of standard trailer lights. they've come down alot so price isn't a factor anymore.
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2017 at 12:34pm
I don't know why you need a special "plug" for the LED... Maybe that light design has a plug...  some LED lights just have 2-3 bare wires to connect, just like the old style.. I have LED........ just like Dave said.
Trump Is Not A Lib or Conserv, He's a "Pragmatist." (someone who is practical and focused on reaching a goal. Has a straightforward, matter-of-fact approach and doesn't let emotion distract him or her
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2017 at 12:55pm
If your getting a new wire harness, you might get a special one that has plugs on the end, but most kits will be tail/ brake lights, a couple small red lights for the back and several yellow running lights (small) for the sides and front..plus a long harness that you cut to length and splice...the small lights will only have 2 wires... MOST 12 volt systems, you have to make sure which wire is HOT and which wire is ground.. MOST LED bulbs will not light if connected backwards.
Trump Is Not A Lib or Conserv, He's a "Pragmatist." (someone who is practical and focused on reaching a goal. Has a straightforward, matter-of-fact approach and doesn't let emotion distract him or her
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DanWi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2017 at 12:56pm
Run a ground wire with your new wire to every light, use heat shrink tubing or connectors everywhere, and try to keep tapping into the main wires to a minimum, just have junctions at the front or back of trailer and split off from there.
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Tbone95 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tbone95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2017 at 2:00pm
Well, I do in fact know what a multi meter is.  Know how to use an oscilloscope too!  But my question to you is:
 
YOU HAVE A STOCK TRAILER FROM 1975?!?!?!?!?!?!?  Holy crap (literally)LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shameless dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2017 at 2:46pm
some have LED light bulbs that plug into the same outlets as your old bulbs did. my fifth wheel camper has them like that. old tail/brake lights were the 1157 bulbs, and the new LED bulbs have the same base as the old, they push in and turn like the old ones and are LED bright.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fixer1958 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2017 at 3:50pm
I just put some LED flood lights on a machine I have, no big deal. Wiring up backwards they either work or they don't and just look different.

Anymore they are cheap and a lot better.
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jaybmiller View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2017 at 4:23pm
The ONLY probem I have with LED lights is people 'borowing' my trailer and whacking them off !! Seems no matter WHAT kind of steel cage I weld on 'they' can destroy the lights....
oh well..
Need to order some 10W white ones as backup lights. Course the 'expert' says I can't have backup lights with just 4 wires....yeah right... I got me a trick up my sleeve,costs less than 5 Canucks and it works.

Jay

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Dave in PA View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dave in PA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2017 at 4:33pm
OK what is the trick, I will ask first!!   I am thinking a double pole switch? Put in one of the lines going back.

Edited by Dave in PA - 16 Oct 2017 at 4:36pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Coke-in-MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2017 at 7:52pm
LED lights are polarity sensitive - you have problems with a positive ground system UNLESS you reverse the wires - and it dont work with a 1157 bulb with 2 filaments  
 Also LED lights mignt not have enough resistance for old bi-metal flasher  you need one made for LED - 
 2 types 1 is bulbs that fit into socket like bulbs we all remember . 
       2nd is new sealed units that fit into a rubber boot or grommet - these has a 2 wire or 3 wire plug in that needs to be either spliced to existing wires or some other form of wiring to unit. 
  The sealed units use a di-electric grease  to seal the plug in prongs to the bulb unit .
The new units are water proof until lens is cracked - but have several LED lights within the unit so one may burn out but others stay lit - 
 so these come in single or dual tale and brake light units - also as clearance lights 
Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rustydollar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2017 at 8:03pm
Give your son Kudo's on his forward thinking.

The Grote line of LED's are sealed units, marker lights use a special wire plug with dielectric grease. The use of plugs makes it easy to replace a faulty unit.

LED's are more durable over filament type bulbs and more visible in nasty weather conditions.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote truckerfarmer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2017 at 9:02pm
LED is the way to go! The plugs​ for the most part are no problem at all. Like others have said ground each light. Same system is used on semi trailers. They can take the abuse. I have the same setup on my pickup. Put them in 7 years ago, still no problems.
Looking at the past to see the future.
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Ray54 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ray54 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2017 at 10:28pm
The old man was running 200 cows in 75 and was buying bulls at a auction and got to talking to the others waiting in line to get bulls loaded,and one had a less than year old truck and gooseneck trailer.He had never been up close to one before and the guy ended up being good sales men for the OK trailer builders. The guy told him one town had 7 places building stock trailers and he had checked them all out and a company by the name of Hart was the best.

I don't know if it was the best but it has severed very well. I still like it as I can weld steel. We have some of the worst roads and guys with aluminum are always needing them welded and it costs a lot. By now the 15 inch 6 lug wheels and axles are the weak point. At 6 x 20 it is hard to put more than 12,000# of cows in it. The weather here is not to bad to cause rust and we cleaned it often. If I ever get to where I have more than 75 cows I may think of getting something else.

I pulled some new wire in 30 years ago and did away with all the no strip no crimp connections in the stop and turn part of it. Had trouble from dragging the back end 20 years ago and just patched things with new conduit.

So now putting all new wire from the front to the axles every thing in the sheath .   Using non insulated crimp connections, soldered with heat shrink and tape back into conduit. Just need to get the lights themselves. The ones at the auto parts we us most of the time had LED but the fixture is made with a plug in back and didn't include the other half of plug. This led him to think of the extra place to have trouble with corrosion at some point. 

After everyone thinking LED is the way to go,I need to go in and make them come up with the plugs,and see what others they may have as well.Thanks guys. 


Edited by Ray54 - 16 Oct 2017 at 10:36pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rustydollar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Oct 2017 at 12:27am
Ray check the plug socket on the marker lights your thinking of buying the ones I had purchase already had the dielectric grease dabbed in waiting for the plug to be installed.

A few years back had purchased an International flat deck with a truck mounted crane and rewired the truck with new LED's and even found led's for the S series cab.

Had to change the flasher unit. I have since sold the truck to a neighbor and have the use of it.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Oct 2017 at 6:21am
There's two kinds of light fixtures... sealed and unsealed.
If you buy the sealed ones you need to waterproof the connections. What I've done is
1) slip 3 pieces of heatshrink onto the wire FIRST...
2) tin and solder the connection
3) shrink the 1st heatshrink,let semi cool, then do the rest..

I make sure there's an extra 1-2 feet of  wire properly secured for future repairs.

With the unsealed units, I make the connections INSIDE the light shell. Simply pull back the light's wires, pull the harness wires inside, join and screw the lens back on. A dab of sillycon where the wires go in helps keep water out.
 It's always best to run the wiring in a conduit, 1/2" poly pipe is great for that! Cheap, easy to mount, already black ..easy to hide. Again, you can leave 1-2-3 feet of 'extra' wire inside the conduit, ready to pull out when replacing the lights.

With 'regular' units you should always use dilectric grease on the bulbs. Take them out,grease ALL of the brass,install, add some more. This will greatly slow down the 'electrolsis' effect of water,brass,tin,steel that's why burned out bulbs are hard to remove. LEDs don't physically break filaments like regular 1157s a big plus for them.

Jay

3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
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Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote truckerfarmer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Oct 2017 at 6:57am


This is the style I have on my pickup. This style of plug was the industry standard for trucks for many years. They snap into place pretty good. If you have a place close by that sells truck parts they are usually pretty cheap.
Looking at the past to see the future.
'53 WD, '53 WD45, WD snap coupler field cultivator, #53 plow,'53 HD5B dozer

Duct tape.... Can't fix stupidity. But will muffle the sound of it!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian Jasper co. Ia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Oct 2017 at 1:05pm
Those plugs should be fine. Next thing is solder every connection and seal them with heat shrink tubing. Keeping water out of the harness is the key. Those open blade style connectors (Scotch Lock) I'd like to give the guy that created those abominations a swift kick in the backside. Once you start with all new wire soldered and sealed you'll be surprised that the lights and brakes work every time you go to use it.
"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ray54 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Oct 2017 at 11:30pm
Well thanks for all the encouragement. Got the sealed LED that will fit the round wholes already there. And the plugs truckfarmer pictured.



Need to do some studying to see what I need for clearance lights up on top. Have not had any working for 30 years. But don't haul many cows in the dark,so nobody noticed yet anyway. 
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