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leaky WD45 engine

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sploke View Drop Down
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Joined: 27 Jul 2015
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    Posted: 17 Sep 2018 at 7:16am
I've had an oil leak on my WD45 since I purchased it.  It seems to be getting worse so I've decided to finally do something about it.  There's a pretty steady drip where the engine meets the torque tube.  Initially I assumed it was the oil pan rear arched seal, so I dropped the pan, cleaned everything up, got all new gaskets for the pan and reinstalled.  Didn't make a lick of difference, other than now that everything's clean, I can see the drip path a little better.  It looks like it's dripping down between the face of the clutch housing and the rear main bearing cap, then onto the oil pan gasket and down from there.

So now I'm thinking it's most likely the rear crank oil seal.  I see that you can replace the lower half of the seal without too much effort.  I really don't want to get into pulling the engine off to replace the whole crank seal if I don't need to....has anyone had luck fixing this sort of leak by just replacing the lower half of the seal?
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Sugarmaker View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep 2018 at 7:57am
Sounds normal. Not sure about the permanent fix. I did a couple oil pan gasket updates that helped but did not cure it. Probably pulling the engine and crank is the only way to get it done right. The experts will be along shortly.
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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SteveM C/IL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep 2018 at 10:07am
don't have to pull crank but if you want to actually fix it,pull engine and rear main cap.Don has a helpful video on here to guide you.It is not a big job to remove engine.May seem like it if you've not done it.
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sploke View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sploke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep 2018 at 10:11am
Originally posted by SteveM C/IL SteveM C/IL wrote:

don't have to pull crank but if you want to actually fix it,pull engine and rear main cap.Don has a helpful video on here to guide you.It is not a big job to remove engine.May seem like it if you've not done it.

The complicating issue is that there's a loader mounted on the tractor, so I think I'd have to take off the loader in order to separate everything else enough to get the engine out...maybe?  I haven't looked at it that closely, when I started it up and saw that it was still leaking I was so ticked off I just packed up the tools and went in for dinner.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep 2018 at 10:37am
Have had many Allis events where I just had to walk away! 
"Its only nuts and bolts" (Don (MO))!
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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