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Later d17 saved from fence row |
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 22653 |
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Posted: 05 Feb 2026 at 9:57am |
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M & W were 7.5 to 1 compression with a 4 1/8" bore. Don't get confused here. It was two things: bore and compression. Raising a 4 inch bore from 7.25 to 7.5 to 1 compression would indeed be a minimal increase in HP. WD45's can use D-17 pistons and sleeves and just like M & W's give the crankshaft a real workout if it is a plowing/discing tractor. Just the compression increase on a WD45 to 7.25 to 1 would yield 5 to 7 HP I think at 1400 RPM. I'd have to check my engine specs book at home, I'm going from memory.
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55allis
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Joined: 30 Jun 2020 Location: Griswold Iowa Points: 1291 |
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Posted: 13 hours 21 minutes ago at 11:57pm |
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Got a Reliance kit a couple days ago and now ready to get the block from machine shop (he’s still trying to get me to do the secondary sleeves).
He got new cam bearings and got the block maniflex and it checked out okay. What should the oil pressure be being rebuilt? Looking at new gauges and there are a lot of options!! Notice the new pistons have a note to run on a dyno within minutes of first starting it, does that have to be done or is there another trick that’s better? |
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1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD, 1963 A-C D17 series 3, several Allis garden tractors
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Les Kerf
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Joined: 08 May 2020 Location: Idaho Points: 1592 |
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Posted: 2 hours 10 minutes ago at 11:08am |
Hmmm... is there any reason to not do this for extra insurance against leakage in a routine rebuild?
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 22653 |
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Posted: 2 hours 2 minutes ago at 11:16am |
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I've only ever used the RTV as a repair, and I have had good success with. If I remember correctly, 60 years ago, I think my local A-C dealership slathered on "white lead" paste on the sleeve Orings ??? I had never been taught that trick. I don't even know what white lead is. I've always used mazola corn oil/vegetable oil. At Caterpillar we use Crisco shortening. Lower sleeve bore damage on those 4-bangers is simply from people using straight water and/or never ever changing flushing the cooling system to purge out any sediment. it's the crap laying in the bottom of the coolant cavity in the block that erodes the cast iron away.
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