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‘93 Pete 375 won’t start

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Lars(wi) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Lars(wi) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: ‘93 Pete 375 won’t start
    Posted: 16 Sep 2021 at 6:50pm
1993 Peterbilt, 375 w/1999 Cummins ISM 335
Cranks over good, but will not fire.
Fresh fuel
All fuses look good
Solenoid is letting fuel thru
No smoke from stack, that what’s puzzling, Cracked open the fuel line from pump to side of block, and fuel comes gushing out when cranking engine.
It acts like out of fuel, but it’s getting plenty of fuel.
I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.
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DMiller View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Sep 2021 at 7:05pm
Pull a valve cover, verify cam is rolling valves and injectors.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lars(wi) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Sep 2021 at 7:13pm
It starts and runs if you constantly give short bursts of ether, as soon as you stop shooting ether, it dies.
I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Sep 2021 at 7:27pm
For whatever reason the injectors are not spraying fuel. That would be above my paygrade. Electronic engines are great until they're not!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lars(wi) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Sep 2021 at 7:32pm
Originally posted by SteveM C/IL SteveM C/IL wrote:

For whatever reason the injectors are not spraying fuel. That would be above my paygrade. Electronic engines are great until they're not!

Steve, you nailed it!! Makes ya wanna get back to the good ‘ol 2-cycle Detroit’s.
I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote truckerfarmer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Sep 2021 at 9:10pm
Not sure about ISM, but had similar issue with ISX Cummins. Problem was the fuel shutoff solenoid.
That was about a dozen years ago, so going from memory. As I recall it was on left side of block towards the back, about level with the top of the frame.

Edited by truckerfarmer - 16 Sep 2021 at 9:11pm
Looking at the past to see the future.
'53 WD, '53 WD45, WD snap coupler field cultivator, #53 plow,'53 HD5B dozer

Duct tape.... Can't fix stupidity. But will muffle the sound of it!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote im4racin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Sep 2021 at 9:32pm
Check resistance of crank sensor.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BPM75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Sep 2021 at 11:15pm
99 ISM I believe will have just one timing sensor or engine position sensor Cummins calls it. It will be located on back side of frt cover left hand side, by air compressor. Those were common for going bad or losing connection at plug in. Later ISM used two sensors, one on crank and one on cam but I think 99 will just have one. Either way would be the first place to check, without a valid eng position signal the ECM will not fire injectors.
59 D17 gas nf, 66 XT 190, 69 220.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lars(wi) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep 2021 at 9:27am
Is that the one w/red, green, black, and white wire? In a black roundish type plug? Has a flat 4 wire connector a few inches away, then travels on to the ECM(from what it appears)? If so, which connection usually goes bad? The one into the engine, or the one on the cable?

Edited by Lars(wi) - 17 Sep 2021 at 9:27am
I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BPM75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Sep 2021 at 7:14am
Yep! That's the one!
59 D17 gas nf, 66 XT 190, 69 220.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lars(wi) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Sep 2021 at 3:38pm
Originally posted by BPM75 BPM75 wrote:

Yep! That's the one!

Got a test light to those wires yesterday, and the wires will light up, not real bright light, but definitely lit up, this was with the key on, but not cranking over, as I was by myself.
Unhooked the batteries late yesterday, will hook back up tomorrow, and continue my quest to get this old girl running.
I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Sep 2021 at 6:16pm
Order a new sensor Monday, you are beating a dead horse chasing signals.  This unit reads as a Hall Effect Switch, On/Off with a specifically different value for TDC.  They just fail.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote im4racin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Sep 2021 at 6:24pm
You need to check RESISTANCE of the SENSOR.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BPM75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Sep 2021 at 10:12pm
Both previous replies are absolutely correct, Lol. Ohms test sensor but probably best to just get a new one, they are known for failing. And definitely check the terminals and wires on engine harness when unplugged from sensor just to make sure terminals look good and properly seated in connector body, check wires to make sure no breaks or rubbed thru, have seen all the above but most likely a bad sensor
59 D17 gas nf, 66 XT 190, 69 220.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Sep 2021 at 3:40am
If used a intrusive point test probe thru the wire insulation buy a bottle of liquid electrical tape, dope the spots probed or will end up having to repair the corrosion later.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 2021 at 8:40pm
Back probe connectors. Never poke a hole in the insulation! It will bite you or the next guy down the road.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lars(wi) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 2021 at 9:09pm
Still no start. Swapped a crankshaft position sensor from a different truck this morning, but to no avail. May have more time to dig into it tomorrow. Will be a chilly 79 degrees forecast, so being up under a truck won’t as bad. I have been told there is 3 fuses between the batteries, and the ECM, but for the life of me, I can only find 2. Well, maybe tomorrow.
I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote im4racin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 2021 at 10:01pm
Could be only 2 but if you have fuel out of pump the ecm has power from those fuses. Are there any check engine lights on? Without the ability to connect to the ecm there is no way to know what is going on
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lars(wi) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 2021 at 10:06pm
When the key is on, the ‘check engine’ and the ‘stop engine’ are on.
I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JTOOL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 2021 at 10:14pm
@Lars (wi); Have you tried disconnecting the batteries for a while and then reconnecting them and starting then? I worked on an N14 about that vintage that the Cummins dealer told me that sometimes the ECM's would go into "Hard Lock" mode for some reason. It worked on that one. Just a thought. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lars(wi) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 2021 at 10:17pm
Yep, did that Sat. afternoon till this morning.
I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BPM75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 2021 at 10:35pm
Fuses are most likely fine, if they're blown then won't be any chk engine light at key on because ecm not getting power. As stated above if check eng and stop eng light on you're gonna need a way to read codes. There is actually a free diagnostic program from Cummins called power spec I believe but you'd still have to have a good laptop, cables and the adapter box.
59 D17 gas nf, 66 XT 190, 69 220.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lars(wi) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep 2021 at 3:14pm
Pulled the fuses, turned key on and the idiot lights come as they always did.
I have a couple guys from a diesel shop just down the street are gonna stop in tomorrow morning with their laptop etc., and possibly get a hint on what’s going on, actually what’s ‘not’ going on. LOL.
I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BPM75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep 2021 at 7:55pm
Yeah that's gonna be your best next step. I'm surprised eng lights came on with fuses out, normally when ecm loses power feed they won't.
59 D17 gas nf, 66 XT 190, 69 220.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote im4racin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep 2021 at 10:35pm
Not sure that those fuses are related to the ecm...it’s a 93 truck with a 99 engine. All schematics are out the window.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 2021 at 4:01am
Frankenstein machines
Have had plenty of those thru the years.
Old gas powered converted to diesel or vs a vs, old tech engine power converted to later high tech and vs a vs.
Chip reprogrammed my own 7.3, helped others to add such to theirs.
Nowadays I work to destructure a emissions mess to what actually works well.

On a Side note, the RV industry is being granted a reprieve on engine auto shut down systems for such as DPF plugged up or DEF faults or even for faults that will place semis into limp mode in derate, this due to lack of knowledge on part of owners or RV techs as well parts(Chicom) to keep the rolling shathouses moving spending tourista dollars.

Hardly fair.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BPM75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 2021 at 6:38am
Originally posted by im4racin im4racin wrote:

Not sure that those fuses are related to the ecm...it’s a 93 truck with a 99 engine. All schematics are out the window.




I was thinking that too
59 D17 gas nf, 66 XT 190, 69 220.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 2021 at 9:16am
So this is not going to help anyone but just tell my story. I have a 07 INT with a C15 Acert. Went to leave one morning and engine would crank,crank,crank but no fire. WTH!! Called mechanic friend was ask if check engine stays on or goes off after switched on. It stayed on and he said you lost power to ecm. 2 hots and a ground from battery feed ecm and one of the hots had worn insulation which led to corrode through.  Totally diff scenerio I know
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