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Mikez 
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Joined: 16 Jan 2013
Location: Usa
Points: 8134
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 Topic: 3pt lift ram
Posted: 28 Mar 2020 at 11:11pm |
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Hi everyone.
What's the trick on getting the 3pt lift ram off D17lV. Hasn't worked for awhile so finally getting to it. For some reason the right ram is stuck. If you unhook pin the arms go up and down fine so it's in the ram. But the lower pin is stuck as well as the cotter pin and there's no room to get into it.figurd I'd ask you all. Does the bracket unbolt, the parts book only lists two bolts in the lower bracket, thought if it did could take it off like that.
Thanks again
Edited by Mikez - 28 Mar 2020 at 11:12pm
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
Points: 21428
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Posted: 29 Mar 2020 at 5:26am |
I've never seen one in person, went to agco to see how it's made.....they appear to be external 'regular' easy access cylinders, unlike my D14s.... that's a great start... Simple test... with the arm disconnected, put a bar through the 'pin' holes of the 'clevis' end of the ram, see if you can rotate( turn) the clevis. It should rotate but very 'snugly'. It it doesn't, I suspect water has got in past the seals and 'runs welded' the innards. D17 owners will KNOW, that's for sure... Someone will probably chime in with a complete list of parts and here's how to do it , soon !
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Hunt4Allis
Orange Level
Joined: 13 Mar 2018
Location: Ohio
Points: 1160
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Posted: 29 Mar 2020 at 6:28am |
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I'm a little confused because my d-17 series 1 has no external hydraulic cylinders at the rear of the tractor?
only thing exposed is the rear lift arms that have the snap coupler connections on the ends...
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Gary
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Peterborough,On
Points: 5168
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Posted: 29 Mar 2020 at 8:01am |
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NE GA Allis
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Joined: 17 Feb 2019
Location: Georgia
Points: 139
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Posted: 29 Mar 2020 at 8:05am |
 Hunt4Allis wrote:
I'm a little confused because my d-17 series 1 has no external hydraulic cylinders at the rear of the tractor?
only thing exposed is the rear lift arms that have the snap coupler connections on the ends... |
Series 4 D17 went back to external hydraulic rams. In my opinion that is one of the best things, besides live hydraulics, they did with the D17. If the cylinders leak, they don’t leak into your differential and transmission like previous D17s. Plus I would imagine you don’t have to tear down the whole back of the tractor to access the ram. That’s an assumption though. Never worked on a series 4 but had to pull the cylinder out of a series 2 because the elbow broke off it and pumped hydraulic fluid into the differential. It took a bit of work to get it back together 
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Keeping Allis alive with:
2 B’s, 1 C, 6 CA’s, 2 WD’s,
1 WD45, 3 D15D’s, 1 D17
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TimNearFortWorth
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Joined: 12 Dec 2009
Points: 2014
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Posted: 29 Mar 2020 at 8:49am |
Spray liberally with your choice of whatever after removing as much dirt etc., start soaking for a few weeks prior and keep doing it. I pulled the rear wheels off to make it easier and mine were not loaded, had other stuff to to check while in there as mine was a barn find that had sat for nearly 20 years. Remove the retainer clip and with different size chisels start working from behind the pin. When you get it to move, soak it repeatedly and tap it back into place repeating and a small pipe wrench or vise-grips to help rotate it as you go. Have heard many horror stories on removing these pins but I got lucky on my dry climate IV, 20 mins. on one side and 30 mins. on the other. Mine were ran by a shop as I already bought seal kits and did not want to mess with disassembly, one leaked terribly after redress and took it to another shop where we found the housing could not be honed enough to seal, reputable shop that made an exact replacement housing and now leak free. Do yourself a favor and go back together using plenty on Anti-Seeze on clean pins . . . . . .
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 19461
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Posted: 29 Mar 2020 at 9:08am |
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The move to an internal ram was to maybe match what some of the competition was doing at that time in history, a cleaner looking lift system. A little research on the D-17 lift system: Series 1 and 2 up until 1962 had an internal ram of 2.500" diameter @ 3,700 max psi which would yield 18,130 psi of pushing pressure. The series 3 tractors had a 2.625" internal ram diameter at the same pressure which yielded 19,980 psi of pushing pressure, a 10% increase in lifting power. The Engineers must have thought they needed a bit more lifting power, so this change was made. Remember, there is only so much room inside that differential compartment. So, when the series 4 was born, the hydraulic system was made to the current industry standards of 2,000 to 2,200 psi. Now, they were forced to go to twin external rams of 2.50" inch diameter and the push pressure was now 19,600 to 21,560 psi of pushing pressure. I don't know what the geometry of the lift arms does to reduce the lifting ability, but any series 4 that is in good operating condition will pick up waaaay more than a 53 HP tractor should be able to.
Edited by DrAllis - 29 Mar 2020 at 10:17am
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DSeries4
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
Points: 7202
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Posted: 29 Mar 2020 at 8:40pm |
Experienced your problem last winter on my 185, which has pretty much the same set up. First thing I did was remove the fender and side console - had to do the brakes, but also helps to have the traction booster linkage out of the way. Good time to also take apart and lubricate all of the pivot points on the linkage to make sure it is not activating the traction booster valve.
Once that is done, get a good supply of penetrating oil and a torch. Start heating and oiling the cotter pin. Get a pry tool to go through the loop of the cotter pin and see if it moves up - don't force it, you can break the cotter pin, then you are really pooched! Keep trying to heat, oil and work back and forth, eventually it will come out. Once the cotter pin in out of the way, work on the pin that holds the cylinder in place - do the same, eventually it will come out. The bracket that the cylinder attaches to CANNOT be removed with the cylinder in place - there is a bolt in behind it!
Never heard of one of those rams stuck in the up position. Are you sure it is not the traction booster linkage that is keeping the ram activated?
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Mikez
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Joined: 16 Jan 2013
Location: Usa
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Posted: 31 Mar 2020 at 1:00pm |
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Thanks guys. Got it out yesterday with some heat oil and patience. And yes definitely in the ram, he took upper pin out and the arms and other ram worked perfectly fine. I'll let you know what they find in there.
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Mikez
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Joined: 16 Jan 2013
Location: Usa
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Posted: 01 Apr 2020 at 10:35pm |
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They said it was full of crud and breather was plugged. Sounds kinda weird, but we haven't owned this one it's whole life and never used arms much while we owned it. But it's back on and works fine.
Thanks again
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