1951 AC B - Any idea what model this is?

 

 

 

You'll love this little beastie.

 

Rachel also shows this at 7:07 to 7:13 in the first video I have previously listed for you.

 

HTH

I was also able to tell someone else has removed the cover before, likely for some sort of leak. In addition to a gasket, there was a bunch of that squeeze tube gasket all around. I peeled all that off for now. Since I have new gaskets on the way.

Between Saturday and Sunday I also drained all the coolant, simply to save it, and stop it from leaking into the engine. I drained approximately 5 L.

Sunday, I figured I'd drain the coolant from the oil, and started with unscrewing the oil plug just enough to allow water or coolant to drain by. I was able to get a slow stream, and let it go for an hour and it kept coming. So I tried to loosen it a little more, and well, guess what happened...I unthreaded the whole plug and a monsoon of coolant came pouring out. I got it threaded back on before my pan overflowed. Replaced the pan with a 20L pail, and drained the whole thing. All in, I drained about 10L of fluid (oil+coolant) from the engine..

If you've been following along this whole time, you'll recall me saying I put a quart of coolant in a couple weeks ago. Since 5L or ~1.25 quarts came out, I assume the point where it's leaking into the engine is lower (this assumes that coolant is evenly dispersed from top to bottom).

Just a few minutes ago, i had finished putting the oil pan back on with a new gasket. I removed it because I suspected the old gasket was leaking, and I wanted to clean-up as much of the old oil from the pan as I could. I'm glad I did, it was pretty sludgy. 

Added some new oil, and compression tested the cylinders. The first test before anything was replaced, had 3 cylinders at 90psi, and one at 80. They are now all around 125psi ( +/- 3 psi).

So all in all, I feel like I'm making progress. Next chance I get, I'll check to see if coolant is still leaking into the engine. Otherwise, I'll move on to spark.

Initial result was no spark. Tested the grounding on the magneto to find out the on/off switch to ground it seems bad: regardless of the switch position I measure 0 resistance using a multi-meter, across the two points.

Disconnected the grounding wire, tried again, still no spark. So all I've done so far has been remove the mag (took some pictures to remember the position of everything), cleaned the points on the cap, and tried to test the magneto.

To test the magneto, I connected the meter to the brass tab on the red coil(?) at the top of the meter, and the other to ground. I used a drill to spin the magneto from the back, and can see on the measure the voltage fluctuate. So this tells me something is happening. But that's about the extent of my knowledge with a multi-meter.

What's the best approach to testing/troubleshooting the magneto? It's a Fairbanks Morse, Type FM X4B16A

I was also turning it in the direction with basically no resistance. Looking at the back, might be called the armature, it was spinning counter clockwise. If someone could tell me the firing order of the cylinders from left to right, I could figure out which way it's supposed to spin.

Im new here, my name is Jeff. Mike is my brother-in-law, and I got offered this project and without question I took it. This is my grandfathers old tractor, so Im pretty excited to get it up and running.

Im jumping right into it though, and I hit a point where I need some help from the experts. I am following up with the no spark. I checked the p-lead for continuity to ground and I had it. So I played with both switches on the "dash" and no change. I disconnected the wire, the wire remains open in every switch position. Mike already gave me the handover to say the switches weren't working, so that is confirmed. The p-lead is the problem. So I tore the cap then cover off the mag to verify the condition of all the parts and everything seems in good shape.

The actual workings of the mag is where I need help with. I understand the ground will kill spark ie. killswitch so p-lead needs to remain open for spark to be delivered. I removed the screw holding the coil, condenser, and p-lead wires to the points and checked each component for a possible case ground/short. The red with coming off the coil is the culprit. So here is the question, before I spend money on a new coil can a expert chime in and agree with this troubleshooting. Or am I wrong and this red wire should case ground?

The next question is the gears inside the mag dont have any timing mark from what I can tell. Do I just mark with a sharpie a easy reference or is there a better way? Because marking it with a sharpie only put it back to how I took it apart, but it may never have been timed correctly from the start.

I took some shortcuts just to make sure it would fire up. So before I start working it I have a list of things I need to do. I put the bucket on and did a functional of everything I could think of. Alternator is putting out atleast 14v (slow build, and I took the meter off when I hit 14), hydraulics are working nice and smooth, lifted a entire bucket full of wet snow, PTO was working. I dont know how the kill switch is wired, but the switch seemed dead when metered, however it actually functions as it should. So my list of things I still need to do is rinse the gas tank and coat it, it has some light rust inside and lots of sediment. Replace the old sediment bowl and filter with new ones (especially after running sediment through them). And the governor seems like its slow, but then overacting, which is causing a huge surge in RPM for a few seconds until it sorts itself out or sometimes stalls.

Here is the idle video. Time to get this old girl out doing some work soon!

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