7060 electrical

Boss just got a red-belly 7060, that the batteries are connected in series. This isn't right, it's a 12 volt system, right? I had a 7580 for a couple years and it was 12, but want to make sure it wasn't an option.

How hard is it to add a third remote? If the ac works it'll be the back-up rake tractor and the Rowse takes 3 remotes.

Will the transmission and hydraulic system be happy with hy-gaurd fluid? The main tractors are green so we get hy-guard in bulk for them and the trucks.

I didn't know there was a bypass filter, were they stock? This one's on the left side, getting changed, they scratched the hours into them pretty hard, and the bare metal rusted.

It's been sitting for maybe two years, should we be concerned about problems with the Roosa Master pump?

Thanks

Third remote should be easy enough, if you can get parts from a wrecker.

A pic from the bypass filter would explain a lot.

Is this a power shift?

Ben (MI) wrote: My 7060 has 2 12 volt batteries connected in series. I believe some run 4 in series. Hy gard will be fine for the hydraulics/trans/rear end. I have a third spin on filter in the left side as well. Someone else will help with the other questions. Mine is a power shift and has been a very good tractor.

Really ??? Not only you have 2 in series, but some run 4 in series? 48 volts nominal?😳

Two batteries hooked in series will combine the voltage12+12=24

My 7030 came new with four batteries option, was still 12 volt.

I was pretty sure it wasn't right. Looks to be a pair of group 31, and one negative is hooked to the other positive.

It's a power director.

The cab interior isn't even in that bad of shape. Didn't look at the hours, I'm headed up to unload it as soon as my brownies are done baking.

If you are going to change the step, replace the steering wheel too for the smaller diameter/flatter design. Makes cab entry and dismounting much easier.

darrel in ND wrote: The easiest way to get three remotes would be to buy an electric/hydraulic valve multiplier. Darrel

Ok, it is wired 12 volt with a kinda small positive cable, now that we got the batteries swung out. And charged. Probably going to have to throw a set in it. Forgot to try the air. Radio works.

There is what appears to be a weep hole in the oil cooler above the rear oil filter. I have a feeling it's not supposed to be there.

The hydraulic filter light is on, and there's green lines about half throttle on the dash and throttle marking low idle. But the 3 pt pops right up.

Familiar with sets of batteries.

5 semi tractors, 3 belt trailers, swather, round baler, rowse rake, 2 newer jd's for hay, I think 3 2290s for back-up/rentals. When a truck or trailer breaks I'm the one who gets to figure out the problem.

I get to back the 7060 off the trailer, no one else on the place has ever driven an Allis.

T in ne wrote: And I was thinking more power beyond option on the hydraulics. It's primary purpose is to go run an auger during corn harvest, and maybe a drill or something when someone has a breakdown. It will be getting another step added. The boss and I aren't as light and young as we once were.

The weep hole is supposed to be there, it tells you if your o rings start leaking.

The alternator in the picture is a "cheap" delco style.

Like said above, 12 volt, either 2 standard or 4 optional, all in parallel.

I really hate top post, and love not only the price and availablity, but the flexibility of the threaded stud type Group 31 truck batteries that every big truck dealer sells on sales for well under 100 bucks, usually in the 70 range.

Whenever there is some sketchy cables, the whole setup is removed and repurposed on another one if good enough, or scrapped if corroded bad. I then replace it with 2/0 cables with the proper ends for the stud type battery.

I have my own hydraulic crimper (under 50 bucks for Taiwans finest) and buy my terminals and cable bulk. You can source all USA materials for reasonable prices on ebay, Waytec, etc.

Once I get the cable cut and terminals crimped, I will then put heatshrink on the ends to seal it, and on the positive lead going over the transmission I will add some of the split loom conduit to add an extra layer of protection against chafing.

Getting all new cables and batteries has taken a few of our hardest starters to a non-issue, start about anytime.

The spin-on bypass on the LH side was a factory update. you will find it on www.agcopartsbooks.com It replaced the luber-finer up in the cowl.

Third remote on a 7000 series Allis is probably one of the easiest ones to add of any brand. a donor in a salvage yard is the only cost effective way to do it. Or like said above, a Fasse valve.